---
product_id: 769339825
title: "10 PCB Circuit Board Heat Transfer Paper A4 Size Transfer Paper DIY Circuit Board Special Paper"
brand: "bcqli"
price: "€ 28.35"
currency: EUR
in_stock: false
reviews_count: 5
url: https://www.desertcart.pt/products/769339825-10-pcb-circuit-board-heat-transfer-paper-a4-size-transfer
store_origin: PT
region: Portugal
---

# A4 Size Precision Optimal Heat Transfer 140-170°C Laser Printer Compatible 10 PCB Circuit Board Heat Transfer Paper A4 Size Transfer Paper DIY Circuit Board Special Paper

**Brand:** bcqli
**Price:** € 28.35
**Availability:** ❌ Out of Stock

## Summary

> 🔥 Transfer your PCB dreams from screen to board with precision and style!

## Quick Answers

- **What is this?** 10 PCB Circuit Board Heat Transfer Paper A4 Size Transfer Paper DIY Circuit Board Special Paper by bcqli
- **How much does it cost?** € 28.35 with free shipping
- **Is it available?** Currently out of stock
- **Where can I buy it?** [www.desertcart.pt](https://www.desertcart.pt/products/769339825-10-pcb-circuit-board-heat-transfer-paper-a4-size-transfer)

## Best For

- bcqli enthusiasts

## Why This Product

- Trusted bcqli brand quality
- Free international shipping included
- Worldwide delivery with tracking
- 15-day hassle-free returns

## Key Features

- • **Laser Printer Ready:** Works seamlessly with laser printers to deliver sharp, detailed PCB layouts.
- • **Bulk Pack of 10 Sheets:** Enough transfer paper to fuel multiple projects or prototypes without interruption.
- • **Heat-Optimized Transfer:** Designed for ideal toner adhesion at 140-170°C for crisp, clean circuit lines.
- • **Perfect A4 Size for DIY PCBs:** Standard 210mm×297mm sheets fit most projects with ease.
- • **Durable Yellow Glossy Surface:** Ensures smooth toner release and consistent transfer quality every time.

## Overview

This pack of 10 A4-sized yellow heat transfer papers is engineered for DIY printed circuit board creation. Compatible exclusively with laser printers, it enables precise toner transfer onto copper boards when heated between 140-170°C. Ideal for electronics enthusiasts and professionals alike, it offers a reliable, glossy surface that ensures sharp, clean circuit patterns for efficient etching and prototyping.

## Description

Product: Toner Transfer Paper Specifications: 10 pieces Color: Yellow Packing: File bag to ensure the integrity of paper. Note: This DIY tool is very easy to use. Do not attempt to be condemned by lack of experience, production errors or paper performance. Random if your feedback is not sufficient. Please visit other businesses. The production of printed circuit boards, electronic enthusiasts often compare one of the headaches, and many electronic enthusiasts often use paintboards, Daoke, stickers, paste and other amateur production methods to manufacture printed circuit boards. The method of heat transfer is to manufacture circuit boards and draw excellent board graphics. Covered with laser printer, transfer paper, adhesive copper for printing on heat transfer paper, after heating, the fused toner will adhere perfectly to copper etc. After cooling the burst transfer paper, you will see that the graphic board is transferred to a black corrosive layer covered with copper. That is the PCB diagram and eventually corrode and you want to get the PCB board. Please note the heat transfer board: 1: Do not overheat or cold iron. The highest temperature is 140-170. Plastic toner properties are the best in this temperature range. 2: Wait for low temperature and peel off the paper, slowly exposed, after not found the good part transfer, cover it and heat it for heat transfer. 3: Use an oil based carbon pen or nail polish to paint what you will repair, but this is not much this condition

Review: Falta un instructivo para utilizarlas. Son buenas hojas de transferencia para realizar pCB
Review: I'm experienced with the "Press-n-Peel" blue transfer paper, but thought I would give this stuff a try. Making good PCBs with fine lines takes some practice and proper prep which I thought I would share here. First, the blue press-n-peel has the advantage of transferring an additional protective layer on your PCB when you iron it on. The blue stuff sticks to the toner, and when the transfer is done, your pcb traces will not only have the toner on them, but the blue stuff. This yellow transfer paper simply makes it where the toner is easily transferred off of the paper onto the pcb. I didn't have a problem with this, but I also haven't done any super fine lines yet. With the blue stuff, I can go down to about 10 mil without a problem. With either method, I'd like to explain my process: First, do yourself a favor and make your traces as large as you can if you have the space. There's no point trying to run 10 mil or less if you don't need to, and give yourself some clearance between traces and other pads. For general purpose stuff where I have plenty of room, I run 25 mil traces unless I need to go between some IC pads. I plug in my iron to let it start heating up. I also use Ferric Chloride for etch, and I also have a cheap stirring/hot plate and get it up to 125F. Trying to etch at 70F takes FOREVER. I found that 120-130F works great and I can etch a board in about 2-3 minutes. Hotter than 130F and fumes start to come off the FeCl. I 3d printed an "insert" into the bottom of my glass pan which raises the board off the bottom and allows room for the little stirrer pill to spin. The stirring is great as you don't have to agitate the solution while etching. I use an infrared laser beam thing that you can get for about 50 bucks to monitor the temp but a simple thermometer would work too. Next I cut my board to size and I bevel the edges of the copper slightly with a file. I find that board right from the factor can have their edges slightly raised which makes it difficult to get pressure down near the edge when ironing on. Just a couple of strokes across the edge takes care of that. I then put on rubber gloves so I don't get oils on the board. I scrub the board in 4 directions with steel wool, then wipe the whole thing down with acetone. I then do a 15-30 second "pre-etch" in my etching solution (I use Ferric Chloride) of the entire blank board. I found the pre-etch allows the toner to stick SOOO much better to the copper. After the pre-etch I rinse the board in water and dry it off completely. For ironing, I use what can be described on desertcart as a "Sealing iron" or "hobby iron". It's smaller than a regular clothes iron, and an exact temperature can be set, and there are no holes in the surface of the iron. One thing you need to make sure is that the iron is DEAD FLAT. I did this by running it over finer and finer grits of sandpaper on a slat surface. You're essentially honing the bottom. I went down to 800 grid to make it really smooth. I also beveled one of the edges of the iron with a roundover so I can put additional pressure on a small area. I don't think you can get enough pressure with a standard clothes iron and get good results. I run the iron at 400F (200C). Make sure the iron is fully heated. When I print out my PCB I also include the edge cuts of the board so I can line it up properly to the copper board. I cut it so that I have some extra paper where I can tape the paper to the PCB, but I don't want to iron over this tape because you can't get enough heat and pressure for any traces under that tape. I then start with an overall heating, starting at the tape edge and moving the iron slowly to the edge which isn't taped down (I only tape along one edge). This gets me an initial "stick" to the board. Then I work again starting at the tape edge with additional pressure. Pretty much as much pressure as I can put on the iron while still moving it. I work from one side to the other. The whole ironing process takes maybe 60 seconds for a 2.75 x 4" board, which is what I use for most of my small projects (sometimes I cut that board in half for 2x2.75" if I can fit everything). Then, and a really important part, is that you must let the board cool down to room temp before peeling off, otherwise the toner can just peel right off the copper. I mean, let it cool COMPLETELY. It doesn't take long, 3-4 minutes. I do all this work in my woodshop and I have a table saw with a cast iron top which is absolutely freezing, so I throw it on there for a minute! Once completely cool, slowly peel the toner off. I had 100% complete success using this paper the first time using this method, but sometimes you might need to touch some spots up. You can use a sharpie to do that. If my board is complex with very fine lines, I'll usually have an enlarged printout of the board that I can use for reference and fix any issues. Ok, time for etching. The solution is now up to 120-130F and I put the board in it. I check every minute for progress and pull it out when done. I usually don't use ground planes in my board, so I remove a lot of copper but it will only takes a couple of minutes when the solution is warmed. I then rinse the board in the sink and examine it to make sure all copper is removed. If not, I'll throw it back in for 30 seconds. I then leave the toner on because it makes finding thru pads easier, and drill any necessary holes for the thru holes. I have a benchtop drill press and it works great. I put a piece of MDF under the board for support and have some cheap drills I bought here. The ones I have have a larger shaft and are much easier to use. You can hold the board up to a light to make sure you've drilled all necessary holes out. Don't forget mounting holes! I always use 3mm screws for mounting and drill out 3.5mm holes so I have some leeway. Finally, I scrub off the toner first with the steel wool, then clean up the rest with acetone. You CAN just use acetone, but I found when I do that the whole thing stains the rest of the board, so I try to get almost all of the toner off first with the steel wool. Hope this helps!

## Features

- Circuit Board Transfer Paper Size: A4 / Color: Yellow / Quantity: 10
- Please make sure to use a glossy surface for transferring
- Always use a laser printer
- After understanding the process, it worked well
- Laser Printer PCB Layout Transfer Paper

## Technical Specifications

| Specification | Value |
|---------------|-------|
| ASIN | B01CGRL2G0 |
| Batteries Included | No |
| Batteries Required | No |
| Brand Name | BCQLI |
| Color | yellow |
| Customer Reviews | 4.0 4.0 out of 5 stars (245) |
| Date First Available | June 29, 2016 |
| Item Weight | 100 g |
| Manufacturer | BCQLI |
| Model Number | 6285693 |
| Package Dimensions | 29.8 x 21.3 x 1.2 cm |
| Package Weight | 0.12 Kilograms |
| Size | 210mm×297mm |

## Images

![10 PCB Circuit Board Heat Transfer Paper A4 Size Transfer Paper DIY Circuit Board Special Paper - Image 1](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/31WW3Ka1J1L.jpg)
![10 PCB Circuit Board Heat Transfer Paper A4 Size Transfer Paper DIY Circuit Board Special Paper - Image 2](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/31YaUzpnz5L.jpg)
![10 PCB Circuit Board Heat Transfer Paper A4 Size Transfer Paper DIY Circuit Board Special Paper - Image 3](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/41qfXmfy+qL.jpg)
![10 PCB Circuit Board Heat Transfer Paper A4 Size Transfer Paper DIY Circuit Board Special Paper - Image 4](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/51-0vDeNBUL.jpg)
![10 PCB Circuit Board Heat Transfer Paper A4 Size Transfer Paper DIY Circuit Board Special Paper - Image 5](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/51794QH8zkL.jpg)

## Customer Reviews

### ⭐⭐⭐⭐ Review
*by R***A on April 14, 2019*

Falta un instructivo para utilizarlas. Son buenas hojas de transferencia para realizar pCB

### ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ Review
*by B***. on December 26, 2024*

I'm experienced with the "Press-n-Peel" blue transfer paper, but thought I would give this stuff a try. Making good PCBs with fine lines takes some practice and proper prep which I thought I would share here. First, the blue press-n-peel has the advantage of transferring an additional protective layer on your PCB when you iron it on. The blue stuff sticks to the toner, and when the transfer is done, your pcb traces will not only have the toner on them, but the blue stuff. This yellow transfer paper simply makes it where the toner is easily transferred off of the paper onto the pcb. I didn't have a problem with this, but I also haven't done any super fine lines yet. With the blue stuff, I can go down to about 10 mil without a problem. With either method, I'd like to explain my process: First, do yourself a favor and make your traces as large as you can if you have the space. There's no point trying to run 10 mil or less if you don't need to, and give yourself some clearance between traces and other pads. For general purpose stuff where I have plenty of room, I run 25 mil traces unless I need to go between some IC pads. I plug in my iron to let it start heating up. I also use Ferric Chloride for etch, and I also have a cheap stirring/hot plate and get it up to 125F. Trying to etch at 70F takes FOREVER. I found that 120-130F works great and I can etch a board in about 2-3 minutes. Hotter than 130F and fumes start to come off the FeCl. I 3d printed an "insert" into the bottom of my glass pan which raises the board off the bottom and allows room for the little stirrer pill to spin. The stirring is great as you don't have to agitate the solution while etching. I use an infrared laser beam thing that you can get for about 50 bucks to monitor the temp but a simple thermometer would work too. Next I cut my board to size and I bevel the edges of the copper slightly with a file. I find that board right from the factor can have their edges slightly raised which makes it difficult to get pressure down near the edge when ironing on. Just a couple of strokes across the edge takes care of that. I then put on rubber gloves so I don't get oils on the board. I scrub the board in 4 directions with steel wool, then wipe the whole thing down with acetone. I then do a 15-30 second "pre-etch" in my etching solution (I use Ferric Chloride) of the entire blank board. I found the pre-etch allows the toner to stick SOOO much better to the copper. After the pre-etch I rinse the board in water and dry it off completely. For ironing, I use what can be described on Amazon as a "Sealing iron" or "hobby iron". It's smaller than a regular clothes iron, and an exact temperature can be set, and there are no holes in the surface of the iron. One thing you need to make sure is that the iron is DEAD FLAT. I did this by running it over finer and finer grits of sandpaper on a slat surface. You're essentially honing the bottom. I went down to 800 grid to make it really smooth. I also beveled one of the edges of the iron with a roundover so I can put additional pressure on a small area. I don't think you can get enough pressure with a standard clothes iron and get good results. I run the iron at 400F (200C). Make sure the iron is fully heated. When I print out my PCB I also include the edge cuts of the board so I can line it up properly to the copper board. I cut it so that I have some extra paper where I can tape the paper to the PCB, but I don't want to iron over this tape because you can't get enough heat and pressure for any traces under that tape. I then start with an overall heating, starting at the tape edge and moving the iron slowly to the edge which isn't taped down (I only tape along one edge). This gets me an initial "stick" to the board. Then I work again starting at the tape edge with additional pressure. Pretty much as much pressure as I can put on the iron while still moving it. I work from one side to the other. The whole ironing process takes maybe 60 seconds for a 2.75 x 4" board, which is what I use for most of my small projects (sometimes I cut that board in half for 2x2.75" if I can fit everything). Then, and a really important part, is that you must let the board cool down to room temp before peeling off, otherwise the toner can just peel right off the copper. I mean, let it cool COMPLETELY. It doesn't take long, 3-4 minutes. I do all this work in my woodshop and I have a table saw with a cast iron top which is absolutely freezing, so I throw it on there for a minute! Once completely cool, slowly peel the toner off. I had 100% complete success using this paper the first time using this method, but sometimes you might need to touch some spots up. You can use a sharpie to do that. If my board is complex with very fine lines, I'll usually have an enlarged printout of the board that I can use for reference and fix any issues. Ok, time for etching. The solution is now up to 120-130F and I put the board in it. I check every minute for progress and pull it out when done. I usually don't use ground planes in my board, so I remove a lot of copper but it will only takes a couple of minutes when the solution is warmed. I then rinse the board in the sink and examine it to make sure all copper is removed. If not, I'll throw it back in for 30 seconds. I then leave the toner on because it makes finding thru pads easier, and drill any necessary holes for the thru holes. I have a benchtop drill press and it works great. I put a piece of MDF under the board for support and have some cheap drills I bought here. The ones I have have a larger shaft and are much easier to use. You can hold the board up to a light to make sure you've drilled all necessary holes out. Don't forget mounting holes! I always use 3mm screws for mounting and drill out 3.5mm holes so I have some leeway. Finally, I scrub off the toner first with the steel wool, then clean up the rest with acetone. You CAN just use acetone, but I found when I do that the whole thing stains the rest of the board, so I try to get almost all of the toner off first with the steel wool. Hope this helps!

### ⭐⭐ Review
*by Ğ***Ơ on December 30, 2023*

Solo salieron bien 3 impresiones después en las siguientes hojas no se adhería el tener en ellas. No lo recomiendo

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*Product available on Desertcart Portugal*
*Store origin: PT*
*Last updated: 2026-03-15*