3Pack ShareGoo JR Style 3 Way Power On Off Switches RC Switch Receiver for RC Car Truck Airplane Helicopter,11.8"

Used it as an on/ off switch for aftermarket lighting on an axial Capra 4WS 1/10 scale.Works fine, easy to use switch.

They allow me to turn my planes off and on. Me happy.

These are cheap -work as advertised-ship fast and got my nitros running -I tested all of them and took them apart to varying quality-don’t want any surprises-all mine function fine …

Installed on tmaxx and as soon as battery was connected the harness burned up don’t recommend and wiring is short

The screws provided are good for installing the switch through a surface up to about 1/8" thick, and would leave a long switch stem exposed, increasing the likelihood that you accidentally knock the switch into the on position and drain, and damage, the battery. I've done that too often putting fuselages away.You can either cut down the switch stem and re-file some notches into it, or add shims (see picture). I have no idea what the thread is for the screws. I re-threaded the switch to take M2 bolts, and that's what you see here. One of the supplied bolts is shown on the right.The picture shows just how long the switch stem is. It shows 2 layers of 1/8" spacers under the cap, plus a gap where a 1/16" fuselage side would fit. There's still plenty of switch showing.

Works like a champ with not issues and just fitted one on my brand new Mugen Truggy!!! Using a 2s Lipo battery connected to this switch works like the other pricey switches!!!!!!!

If you’re expecting a 3-way switch that allows you to select between two separate circuits, that is NOT what this product is.The outward appearance is that of a DPDT (Dual Pole Dual Throw) switch. However, the insides reveal that two pairs of the six pins are soldered across the positive and negative terminals and connected only to positive lead wires. The third pair of [pos & neg] pins are unused.So, the maker has essentially made a SPST (Single Pole Single Throw) switch out of a DPDT one.Even more bizarre is that all three of the negative leads (wires) are spliced together, creating a relay circuit switching on the positive side of the circuit.In effect, what you get is a single input connecting to two outputs, and the switch controlling both outputs to be “on” or “off” at the SAME time. If that’s what you want, then you’re golden. However, I suspect that most users would want to select between power sources, or select between device loads. This switch just isn’t going to be able to do those things.What’s a shame is that this could be remedied by the maker using a conventional pattern of connections for wiring the switch.Also, there are risks for damaging equipment as users end up bridging power sources instead of selecting between them. Factor in the extremely narrow wires (greater than 20 gauge) used in this product from the factory. By the time you smell something burning, the damage has been done.

They're okay, and work fine. They are a bit cheap and cheerful, but okay for now.

2 of 3 failed! After soldering on my own ends 2 of 3 failed. Throwing ALL in garbage. Not risking a $3000 plane on garbage. Do yourself a big favour and spend the money for real switches