iJDMTOY Universal LED Daylight DRL Automatic ON/Off Controller Module Box Relay

I purchased a Philips daytime running light kit back in 2012. After a little over two years, the controller stopped working. I was hoping to find a replacement without having to buy an entire DRL kit. I'm so glad I chose the iJDMJOY Universal Controller. First off, it has more features than the Philips controller. It also plus directly into the Philips lights (you have to bend the electrical contacts, but the connection is firm) so installation is really easy if you already have the Philips DRL system.I particularly like the fact that this controller dims the DRLs when you have your headlights on. The Philips controller shuts them off completely. The iJDMJOY controller also leaves the DRLs on for 15 seconds after the car is turned off. On my Honda CR-V, the DRLs come on for 15 seconds whenever I use the remote to lock or unlock the car. That bothered me a bit at first, but it's nice having the extra illumination when looking for the car in a crowded parking lot.This controller can be wired to turn off the DRL on one side if that side's turn signal is on. My DRLs are far enough away from my turn signal lights that I didn't bother wiring it that way, but it's nice knowing the feature is available if you need it.I've had the controller installed for almost two months now and am still very happy with the purchase. I may buy another to control some other lighting.If you want to add daytime running lights to your car, I think you'll be very satisfied if you choose this box to control them.

I'm quite angry because overall this thing promised everything I wanted, and actually did it for about a month before it outright died.The concept is good: you have your hot, cold, trigger, and a headlight-dimmer trigger, along with trigger lines for either side's turn signals to turn off your DRL for that side: all good so far. I personally skipped the per-signal trigger and wired the primary trigger to both my ASD relay, and my turn signal with a couple of 12V diodes between to avoid cross-current. Basically: if my turn signal flashed (as it does when the car is unlocked) or if the engine was running, the DRL would trigger and remain on for 15 seconds. I also hooked up the headlight dimmer, because why not.So first, the passenger side just died completely. No explanation, no drama, it just stopped turning on. I looped in both sides' DRLs into the driver's side circuit, and they worked again. Mind you, total, the two LED rings I was operating drew about 500mAh of current: like with most LED's, this is practically nothing, so this controller is not being over-run even running both on the same side. That worked for another couple of months, and now the DRL's are flickering like mad whenever they are on, so I'm guessing whatever crap LED driver is in there has now fully clocked out.I contacted the manufacturer for a replacement, but they first:1) Only cited a vague policy that the unit could not have been "modified" specifically saying things like connectors could not be removed, which *of course I did that* because they give you like 4 feet of wire for every connector, and I didn't want a spool of friggin wire sitting in my engine bay right above the fan belt, and because the trigger wires were literally just wires and how on earth else am I meant to install them without soldering and splicing2) Required me to return the current one first. A $22 piece of throwaway electronics, potted in. For what possible reason? I suspect to do exactly what happened: I couldn't be bothered, and therefore didn't get a replacement.So all in all, $23 to get my time wasted and a minor headache for a few months. Don't buy this.

Easy to fit and reconnect to existing lights. Note: Disconnected from fog light controls to comply with NZ warrant of fitness rules. Non-factory lamps can not be replaced by leds.

I was having issues with this drl module and contacted support for suggestions. Looks like all support does is copy and paste the same answer no matter what issues you are having. I have a Cadillac ATS and the OEM drl lights that I purchased from GM. When I followed the instructions to connect the module the lights would come on randomly for 15 seconds then turn off with the car being off. Sometimes when I turned off the car the lights would stay on for like 15 seconds then turn off, but other times the lights would just be off. Sometimes I would turn the car on and the drl's would come on for 15 to 20 seconds then turn off. It says to connect the blue wire only if the lights don't power on when connected to the battery. This module does not sense when the engine is on unless the blue wire is connected to a switchable acc fuse or relay in the engine compartment. Once the blue wire is connected the module behaves like it is supposed to. When the white wire is connected to either your headlights or the parking lights it will dim the drl's when the headlights or parking lights are on otherwise they will be at full brightness day and night. I did not connect the yellow or the green wire because I did not want those additional features. If you decide to purchase this module make sure to follow the instructions, but also connect the blue wire to a switchable acc source to ensure the module behaves like it is supposed to. Again if you contact support they will just copy and paste the same answer so don't even bother.

I got these in 2017 for a 2012 kia optima i owned til 2022, sold it to my sister in law, and they still work with same relay. High quality

This does nothing that is claimed in the description. This is the second unit I've tried. Both units did exactly the same, nothing.Once these are connected to power, your Daytime Running Lights (DRL) will NEVER turn off, no matter how you connect the wiring. The only way to make these units work is to connect to a switch 12v source, which defeats the timing feature. You can do the same thing by wiring your DRL to a switch 12v source.Just beware these have a a high failure rate.