E-Z LOKKnife Threaded Insert for Soft Wood, Zinc Hex-Flush Thread Inserts M6-1.0 Internal Threads, 13mm Length Pack of 50

Some of the common complaints I see on here are that they strip out and they don’t go in straight.Tips for those issues:-use a 5/16” drill bit and it will go in no problem-as far as them not going in straight, if your predrilled hole is crooked, it’s going to go in crooked. My advice would be to check constantly while drilling to maintain a perpendicular hole or to use a drill pressI’ve been using these for a few months now and I have installed 100+ into walnut, maple and dense mahogany without a single issue. They work perfectly when prepped and installed properly.

These inserts work beautifully in all the woods I've tried so far, ranging from poplar to hard maple.I really like that they go in with a 4mm hex wrench or hex driver bit (look online for those, McMasterCarr has them).They glide right in, even in hard maple and walnut, and even with using a hex wrench or hex bit in a hand driver, it's very easy to keep them straight.They're durable enough for most applications, and about 1/4 cheaper than the brass inserts, which I did have a bit of trouble with in the harder woods, even with using an oversized hole and using a bit of paraffin wax on the threads. The recommended hole for these is 15/64", but a 1/4" hole works just as good and is a more commonly available drill bit size; most people will have a 1/4" bit on hand, not so much with a 15/64".Like I said, I've used these in all types of woods ranging from poplar to hard maple. I have no idea why E-Z LOK markets these as being for soft woods; they work great in hard wood as well. So if you're trying to decide between these and the brass variety, give these a try, they work great, are easier to install than the brass ones and are way cheaper.4/18/12 UPDATE:I've been using these inserts in a lot of different woods and the 15/64" hole works for every wood I've tried. One exception is purpleheart (a VERY hard and dense wood). The inserts go in with the 15/64" hole, but a 1/4" hole works a lot better; they glide right in. I couldn't get the brass inserts to go in purpleheart at all. These are great inserts and I'm glad I made the switch.

I recommed using liquid nail on the insert before screwing them down. I tried epoxy first and that' didn't work as well as the liquid nail did. And get the ez lok took also

Not sure what issues some people have. Drill a 9mm pilot hole, install these into your wood with either a 6mm allen key or the NOT INCLUDED driver bit. (I'd rather pay a few extra bucks and have it come in the package, then realized AFTER that the second photo is only a reference.)That's literally it. Use a high speed low torque setting on your drill and if it slips too quickly, raise the torque. Learn how to use a drill/drill press. You MUST drill a pilot hole for these. It should be very close to 9mm.These things have good holding power and all installed super well. I recommend these.

Put these in a subwoofer box to keep my subs from falling out due to screw failure. I use Sundown Audio SA-12D2s with 1600w rms and so far they have held tight.

These threaded inserts worked fairly well except when I tried to put them too close to a knot. The metal in the area of the hex driver is too thin and they split out and then they are impossible to get out unless you might have a proper sized easy out. The one that was too close to a knot had to be abandoned and moved over which I didn't like. They also don't necessarily go straight in the drilled hole. I had a few that actually moved to one side or the other which then didn't line up with the other part that the bolt goes through. I had two inserts split and four that moved one way or another.

I sometimes use MDF in my woodworking for the ease of detailing, sanding, and painting. The challenge has always been attaching solid wood and the fasteners not destroying the MDF, especially if you have to unfasten and refasten. These inserts solve that problem and work well with Hex Bolts to hold it together. Drill your hole and screw them in with an allen wrench, and install your bolts. I can recommend these to any fellow woodworker, and I will definitely purchase again when the time comes.

I used these inserts for a bunch of knobs for little projects. I inserted them into premium pine plywood (if there is such a thing). I used a regular allen wrench and it was really tricky to get them to go in straight. Once they start there isn't really any correcting. I also had to take the allen wrench and give it a smack with a hammer to seat it into the threaded insert before driving it into the wood. Otherwise, the wrench would just slip out almost immediately. That looks like a design "feature" so they really grab onto the tool. It was annoying, but it worked.The threads area reasonably strong. I tried inserting a 1/4 20 bolt like a complete ape and did manage to peal off a thread. once they grab a few threads I am sure they are as strong as you would need.Bottom line - They work and they are a good value.

Sur le sac, il est inscrit un perçage de 7mm, se qui est environ 17/64.Quand j'ai percé avec le foret recommandé, j'ai bien remarqué que c'était très difficile à insérer et le résultat n'était pas du tout positif.J'ai du faire un test avec une mèche 9/32 et cela semblait plus juste.Sur leur site web, comme vous verrez sur ma photo en copie, il recommande justement 9/32.J'ai perdu du temps et quelques vis avant de comprendre leur erreur...Même la page Amazon n'indique aucune information sur l'utilisation... Un manquement selon moi!Ne faite pas la même erreur que moi...Expérience frustrante!Au moins, j'avais testé sur une autre planche de bois avant!

For those who are 'breaking the shoulders' of the hex.....I hope you know that a pilot hole is needed...........and the correct size ??I just installed about 15 - 5/16" x 3/4" in the new deck surface I installed, for eye-bolts to hold our pool cover over the winter. Come spring, I'll remove the cove,r and eye-bolts, and install 3/4" flat-top stove bolts to keep dirt, etc outThe bag suggested an 11 mm drill bit so I tried a 7/16 and 3/8 on a piece of scrap decking, and decided that a 3/8 hole properly cleaned out was the best solution.My Milwaukee 18v bottomed out on the max 24 screw torque setting without being fully inserted below deck level. so I switched to Drill setting and countersunk the insert 1/8" no problem......and no breaks, cracks etc. I'll buy them again in a heartbeat....especially at this price.I was going to use a dab of PL Premium in each hole but decided to wait and see how the eyebolts come out next spring in case I have to adjust depths for the stove bolts first.Great product! :-)Mark

These work great, but make sure you so a couple of test holes to ensure that you get the right sized pre drill. This will vary if you are using hardwood or softwood. The required hole will likely be bigger than you anticipate. Drilling the hole to the size you would assume based on the body of the insert will result in the top snapping on the sidewall where it meets the allan key. You will need to do a test fit, as when they snap halfway into the workpiece, a grinder and zip disc is the only good option.

I used them for different builds, I didn't encounter any issue with the insets but it happened that the wood inside was not hard enough.I had to used a really small hole to make sure they are correctly secured inside the wood. Always used the drill and it was fine.I mostly used them on soft wood (pine). Jot sure about hard wood. I reordered them as I was very satisfied.

The caps on the posts of an otherwise nice bed were loose. I set these into the posts (end grain of hardwood) and they worked exactly as expected. The caps had a 5/16 -18 thread and fastened right on.