Squirrel DaddyRigid Mount 300 Blackout Case Trimming Jig

4 Main Problems with Compatibility to my saw, which is a Jounjip Mini Miter Cut-Off Chop Saw https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B08142SCLB?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details1) Center vise/fixture pivot hole measures .165" (4.2mm) and is not threaded. Ironically, that diameter is a tap-drill diameter for an M5 x 0.8mm pitch thread, which is the thread of the screws from this fixture/kit. That hole is also not drilled thru making it more of a pain to thread/tap the base. I didn't want to disassemble the saw & spring assembly so I found a way to do it that others could follow. Using an automatic center punch (or any center punch), the floor, which appears to be casting flash. Mine was knocked out, so I was able to thread/tap the hole with an M5 x 0.8mm tap. You can use a handle but I used a slow-speed drill and carefully kept it aligned. You may have to re-drill the 4.2mm (.165" hole) if the flashing still remains, which I had to do to clean out the hole after center-punching.2) The pivot base provided in the kit has the pivot hole threaded (the other is a slot), but this does not make sense (proven why in the attached picture), since the thread's pitch lead (start of the thread) will not match that of the threads in the pivot base, so as seen in the picture the screw head will never seat even when it is tight. To resolve this, use a 5mm (.197") drill to drill out the threaded hole in the pivot base (right-hand hole, not the slot). Once that becomes a close-fitting clearance hole for the M5 screw, the screw head will seat as it should.3) The countersunk screws (smaller diameter than the M5s) for the length adjustment & locking screws are far too long unless your stock baseplate on your saw has these holes in this pattern for other mounting hardware, mine had none of these holes. As you can see when the screws are threaded into the pivot plate they stick out by .030".040" (.75mm-1.0mm), which means they bottom out and are still not tightening the length adjustment (the point of the jig design). With simple tools, I figured I would modify it the poor man's way with just a metal file. The screws are very small so tough to hold onto, but if you screw them and gently torque them into the pivot plate they make an excellent fixture to hold both screws in place while you use a flat metal file to cut the ends of the screws down. Keep the file flat to prevent distorting the pivot plate's bottom surface. Once they are flush and not sticking up they will function as designed to allow the main channel to slide along the length adjustment and lock down once the length is set. Easiest to set using a piece of factory brass, but can be set with calipers or other methods.4) The plastic sheet material used for the bottom of the channel/groove, in my case, had a manufacturing defect in it, and was much to wide in the main/long run down the channel, as you can see in the picture, it cannot be seated. The material is stiff enough it will not form-in-place by jamming it down into the groove. The width of the plastic along the groove in my case was .463" wide, but the channel width is only about .430" wide, meaning there is .033" excess/too wide of the plastic sheet material. There is clear evidence (also shown) that the steel rule die or shear, whatever the cutting tool is had an issue, or the clamping plate lifted, because the base of the cut near the cutout for the sawblade fits properly, then drifts immediately away from that edge. I attempted to cut in place against the groove, but I'd recommend setting up a straight edge clamped onto the sheet to trim it straight. Even with a wandering cut I ended up with by accident, it works just fine, it's just ugly looking.My last particular issue is that my saw assembly stop screw isn't long/tall enough to stop the saw before it contacts the fixture. I should be able to replace it with a longer screw without an issue.Once you get the process and fixture in place the repeatability can be pretty solid. During my learning curve and while trying to video my saw cutting the brass I had a worst case of .005" max spread in length, with most within .001"-.002". It is clear that for the best repeatability the direction and pressure applied to the piece being cut is key to repeating more closely. I like the product, it took a lot more effort than it should have for the price (2-stars for the design/manufacturing issues), but I plan on making this a heavily used fixture that should be a good tool now that it's set up properly.Keep in mind after re-forming the brass in your full length sizing die the overall length will increase by about .005" from the cut dimension, at least in my case it did, no pun intended.

Went back and forth between this jig and another popular one. Opted for the Squirrel Daddy as they advertise the jig accounts for case taper...it might in the vertical plane, but in the horizontal plane, the cases flop back and forth (front to back). When cutting cases, if you don't use a fair amount of pressure with your finger the case will chatter back and forth front to back. Additionally there is a cheap plastic strip that you have to lay in the jig channel in order for the cases to slide along as you feed a new one in. The problem is that when you cut a case, the saw creates a bur on the cutoff piece that will rotate around and embed that bur into the plastic and you can't slide cases and the cut off. You have to stop and get the cutoff and its bur loose in order to proceed.Also as noted, this jig will not work with the current Harbor Freight saw. The right hand side hole in the saw base is not drill through nor threaded requiring extra work and expense to get the jig mounted.Will it cut cases? Yes, but...it is not nearly as quick and effortless as they want you to believe. I got frustrated enough with it that I removed it from the saw and just made a jig myself. I just took a chunk of 2x4, drilled a 3/8" hole down the end, then split it down the middle of the hole with my bandsaw to create a channel. I then just cut the piece to the right length and width to fit in the saw's vice. By pressing a case into the channel and sliding back and forth a bit it created a "stop." I then just clamp it in the saw's little vice, lay a case in the channel and with minimal finger pressure it cuts like a dream, no chattering, no plastic strips or burs to worry about.

The hardest part really is mounting the thing. In terms of the separate drops for cases and cut offs they are so close together you kind of have to have a setup designated just for trimming if you want that to work really well. All in all I’m pretty happy with it. It probably took 3-5 min to set up and adjust, and then it was off to the races.

After reviewing a U-Tube on this product I ordered it. It was delivered quickly; appears to well made and simple to use. I have not used Squirrel Daddy yet so I gave it a 4 star until I get a chance to use it......

This made short work of converting .223 cases to 300 ACC Blackout. This won't do precision cutting of brass length because when you hold the brass case in place it will move slightly. This is an operator issue and not a jig issue. I cut 500 pieces in a few hours so I got a little sloppy in my hold and a few of the cases were cut rooked. This was not a problem since I adjusted the saw position to make the cuts .100in longer then necessary and then trimmed to length. Converting my Forster to a power trimmer made it easy to trim the excess length. This bolted easily to the TruePower 919 Mini Miter Saw and converting the first 250 pieces of brass were a breakeven point since I'm using range brass which costs 0$.

This is making trimming 223/556 cases down to 300 AAC Blackout size very easy. It took a little time to get setup and calibrated but once installed, it's easy to fly through cases on a mini saw.The initial installation of the mountain plate didn't go so well with the mini-saw I purchased. The mount has a threaded screw and the mini-saw's hold was just slightly smaller and not threaded. I had to secure the angle screw first and then work on the center mount screw, I eventually got it level and installed it.

been making 300 black out for weeks now and its awesome. If you're new to reloading make sure you double-check are the saw blade cuts down. I cannot emphasize that enough if you do not adjust screw you will cut through your jig. It is adjustable four different types of saws but make sure you put a drop of blue Loctite so that screwed doesn't work its way out of your particular measurement over time.