Sink, Bathtub & Shower Acrylic & Porcelain Surface Repair Kit - PRO Kohler White-Matching LCA

Expensive yes, but it worked. I had two tubs that had a chip in them. One was an expensive tub with a small chip. I followed the direction and it worked perfectly, and you really have to look to see exactly where it was repaired. The other tub was inexpensive and had a hole over a quarter of inch diameter. I followed the same directions but the whole piece cam out when I sanded it. So, I used a fine file to smooth the edges and then re-sanded as directed. Then, I place a small amount in the bottom of the hole, cured it, and then added more. I made six small applications before taking the picture (see attached). I worked for over and hour on the tubs, but both look great now. Two things you should know about the little flashlight that some with it. I first thought that the batteries in the light were dead. However, there was a plastic in between the batteries that you have to take out that were not part of the directions. Also, with 6 applications I had to do, I would have appreciated a small flashlight holder (the product requires 3-5 minutes UV light to cure - see attached). I bet you could make one out of cardboard and put that in the kit. At $50+ a whack, it should have one.

My acrylic bathtub liner started cracking around the drain. It had already been completely replaced once and it was a hassle dealing with the contractor and the manufacturer's warranty (they wanted to prove that we cracked it rather than admit it was unsupported around the drain). Since the cracks were small I did some research on acrylic tub repair and ordered this kit. On the pro side the kit comes with almost everything you need to make repairs, We had no trouble with the syringe, the LED light, or the Flitz polish. I would recommend heading into the garage to get some finer sandpaper to finish the work as the buffing bar tends to come apart in use (not unusual - seems to happen to every sanding bar tool I end up with in a kit). On the con side, it takes a low of elbow grease to get the patch sanded down to the surface and the Flitz polish is so-so. If you need to repair minor cracks or a chip in your acrylic surface I would recommend looking into this product.

Good news first: this stuff works and it works remarkably well. The not so good news and the reasons for taking out one star: the enclosed UV curing light is mostly a joke and the enclosed set of sandpaper does not allow for a smooth transition from sanding to polishing. Long story: my new Kohler acrylic tub arrived with a ½”-sized area filled with a few deep scratches, likely a shipping damage. I figured a repair would be a much less hassle compared to a whole tub replacement. Here comes this kit. The first kit received turned out to be of a different kind – 2-parts acrylic instead of a light-curing. Sellers fault, nothing to do with the product, but make sure you have the right kit to start with. I also separately ordered a 5W LED curing dental light on eBay, they go for around $30. My first attempt with this kit was on a scrap piece of white acrylic toilet cover. I would highly recommend to try it out first before doing the actual repair. In my case I figured that the transition from the enclosed #200 grit sand paper to the enclosed 4–sided fine sanding block did not allow for having a smooth surface. So another round on eBay to order a set of fine polishing paper in the 400-4000 grit range. Another $10. Finally, ready for the real repair. Apply masking tape around the damage area, leaving maybe 1/32” space around it. Follow the instructions to sand it lightly and degrease. Apply light-curing acrylic from the syringe. Cover with enclosed transparent plastic piece. Apply slight pressure, make sure acrylic covers the entire area, and there are no air bubbles. Now cure it with light. With 5W dental light it took about 1 minute to cure. Remove the transparent plastic. You have got a fresh layer of acrylic covering your entire damage area and rising slightly above the surface. From this point on it is all about elbow grease. You can make it as perfect as you want to given enough time and patience. Start with #200 sandpaper to make the repair area level with surrounding surface. Now remove the original masking tape and re-tape the area allowing for slightly more open space. Proceed to the next grit size. Make sure to wipe the area with water when changing grits to remove any abrasive which might be left there (otherwise it will produce new scratches). I went through the following set of polishing papers: 400, 600, 1200, 4000, 8000 before using the enclosed 4-sided polishing block and finally the enclosed polishing paste. Keeping re-taping between every few grits to open up a progressively larger area. The resulting repair surface will blend nearly perfectly with the rest of the fixture, it is still possible to tell where the repair has been by inspecting the surface under the right light and the right angle, but a casual observer will never find it.

I had a countertop made of a manufactured stone that resembled porcelain, called S200. The contractor dropped a tool on it and left a big gouge. See before and after pictures below. The after picture has the toothbrush. Note that there is a slight color difference, Had I been working on a genuine porcelain surface (e.g. kohler white) it would have matched perfectly. The color wasn't a big deal, The finished result looked a lot better than before.I recommend getting some additional fine-grit sandpaper, like this set of graduated grits  Micro-Mesh 3 x 4 Soft Touch Pads I also recommend not using the masking tape like the instructions describe. When you use the masking tape, it creates a border against which the acrylic compound will pile up at a level slightly higher than the surface of the fixture being repaired. this happened to me as you can see from the after picture. The patched area is not even with the surface of the countertop, it is higher because of the masking tape. I would have been able to get it flatter had I not used the masking tape.The kit comes with two small blue-lights that resemble the kind of light you would attach to your keychain. They do not have on/off switches. You have to squeeze them to get them to light up. When you release pressure, they turn off. I used a pair of vice-grips balanced on a roll of masking tape to hold the lights in place during the curing process. I also bought a bigger ultraviolet light to use. which I held in place with a clamp.