Oregon 92-616 G3 Gator Blades (Set of 3)

I haven't changed my D140 blades since I bought my mower. These fit perfectly and after a couple of uses, they do appear to mulch the grass very well. They are not expensive and I am hoping I never have to buy replacement blades every again. Because of knee issues I have been hesitant to get on the ground to get the deck off but did so to clean the grass from on top of the cutting deck. JD's deck design is just horrible for allowing grass clippings to accumulate and even if your use water to wash it off, grass collects anyway. But I did get it off and was able to completely remove built up grass from both sides, pain the underside to protect from rust, and change the blades. I rely on YouTube videos to guide me in the process and the entire process was easy. I even changed the oil and filter, air filter and spark plugs. It says John Deere but this is a Briggs and Stranton engine and is very durable. I am guessing it will be the last mower I ever have to buy. But these blades appear to be a lifetime add on.

I decided it was finally time to replace my stock blades on my 48 inch Deere mower deck. These looked like they would mulch much better than the original blades and my experience has been that they really do! I installed them right out of the box, despite reading some reviews that said they need sharpening. I decided to take my chances even though they did not appear to be sharp. They had a blunt edge but I figured I'd give them a try. They mulched really well and seemed to cut fine, however the next time I cut my grass, I noticed all the grass blades had the telltale signs of dull blades. The cut edge on the blades of grass was jagged and browning. Obviously not optimal for grass health and stress, so I removed them and sharpened them and now they cut incredibly well. I just bought a used John Deere 1025r subcompact tractor with a 60 inch mower deck. The blades are beat so I will be trying a set on the new machine as well. This time of year I need to mow about every 4 days and sometimes can't get to it on the 4th day so the grass will get taller than optimal. I noticed with these blades I don't get buildup under the deck and trails like I would with the original blades and the mower does not bog down in the taller grass like it would before installing these blades.These are also a little thicker gauge steel than the OEM blades. Does it make a difference? Maybe the added weight helps them keel their inertia in the taller thicker grass.

I bought these same blades over five years ago, we mow just over one acre of grass......in the five plus years I never sharpened the blades and they still did a good job. Highly recommend.

I always mulch-mow, so when it was time to sharpen the OEM blades on my JD LA145, I bought this set of Gator blades. For all my mowers, I have at least two sets of blades so that I can always have a sharp set on hand. I also never expect brand new blades to be ready to bolt up without a little tuning with hand files. These blades, as delivered, needed a LOT of tuning. The cutting edges (if you can even call them that) would not cut warm butter. The edges are rounded (and painted), and honestly, they were less sharp than the blades I took off the mower (the old blades had 100 cutting hours on them). Aside from that, they appear to be well-made, with decent quality steel, and are reasonably good forgings. Balance was almost dead on. I don't really care much about the paint, but it's a nice even and thick coating. It would be nice if the manufacturer ground the cutting edges after painting, even if not to a fine edge.After sharpening the blades at the bench, they bolted onto the mower shafts with no issues of fit at all.I have to say that there is a lot of misinformation and misunderstanding out there when it comes to lawn mower blades. Mower blades need to be SHARP; the sharper the better. It is true that if you put a razor edge on a mower blade, it won't last long. How long it will last depends upon the bevel angle of the cutting edge and the hardness of the blade steel... and all mower blades are made of soft steel. If they weren't, they would fracture the first time you hit a pebble or a stick. But at the same time, there is no reason (beyond safety in handling) to not have them very sharp. It's common sense that the sharper they are, the better they will cut, and the better they cut, the less damage they do to your grass, and the healthier (and more attractive) your lawn will be. If you start out with very sharp blades, they will not become dull more quickly. Assuming the same edge bevel angle, they will in fact dull at the same rate as they would if you started out with them less sharp. All other things being equal, after the same number of cutting hours, blades that started out very sharp will be less dull than blades that started out less sharp. That's a very basic fact.In use, the Gator blades are a little bit noisy. They create noticeably more sound than the OEM blades (I think my OEM blades are the JD "high-lift" blades). But (after sharpening) they cut very well. The grass tips are sheared very cleanly. The mulching design seems to work well, and the longest bits of cut grass I saw were about 3/4" long. Most were 1/2" or less. Time will tell how long they will last before needing to be sharpened again, and if they hold up as well as the OEM blades.For now, I'm satisfied with these. The Amazon price is reasonable and delivery was very quick. Aside from the fact that the blades needed a LOT of sharpening, I had no problems with them, and performance is good.For now, I would recommend them, as long as you don't mind taking the time to SHARPEN THEM BEFORE first use. If you don't, you will be extremely disappointed, and your lawn will be very unhappy.

Very durable

I have an acre and a half of yard to maintain and four acres of disused and now tree and brush covered pasture to keep under control. There are rocks, sticks, branches, stumps, beer cans, and other debris all over, often hidden in the tall bahia. I even found a discarded frying pan once. So my blades have frequent dates with an angle grinder, but I still went through three sets of Deere blades last year due to cracks and bends that I could not balance out.The OE Deere blades - even the general purpose version - are not very good at mulching, and are difficult to keep sharp with the complex leading edge. They are also also expensive, so I quickly went looking for better options.These Oregon blades are sturdy, easy to sharpen and balance, much better at mulching, and much less expensive.

These blades were a replacement for a set I purchased about 5 years ago. The old blades which were identical to the replacement still looked good. All that's needed is sharpening and they can be put back on, no need to buy another set.

The mower blades are great. But the shipping was very slow - arrival was almost 2 weeks later than the indicated arrival range.

I took a chance on these with a slight premium in cost and I am glad I did; now mulching with no trails.I am adding this 6 months later: Just received a 55$ invoice from FeDEX for the importing of these blades... this is very disappointing, on one hand the blades are great but I am not sure I would have purchased if I had known the total prices would be 143$ CAD... that's almost 50$ a blade...Learn from my experience...

Sturdy and fast shipment.

They cut better than original Mulching Blades. Another benefit of the slots is they free up horsepower,(less wind resistance) allowing for higher blade speeds when encountering taller grass.

Great blades, great price, fast delivery. Used them for a month now and what an improvement over the stock blades. Very happy!