Latest Z-Wave Plus GE by Jasco Wireless Lighting Control Three-Way On/Off Kit, Works with Alexa (Retail Packaging)

Quick Review:If you're converting your 3-way light switches to z-wave controlled ones but want to use fluorescent bulbs, this is the answer. Installation is easy enough once you understand how the switches and light fixtures are wired together. Get them for around $50 here on Amazon.Full Review:I decided to start switching over my home to use z-wave for home automation and needed to find light switches to use around my house. After reading some of the reviews for the 3-way dimmer version of this switch, I opted to go for these to convert my home. I already have fluorescent light bulbs for almost every light fixture and being able to dim most of the lights was not a priority for me.This product is just a  GE 45609 Z-Wave Wireless Lighting Control On/Off Switch  packaged with an auxiliary switch (GE 45610) so that you can have it control a 3-way (or 4-way, you'll need another aux switch) circuit. It's meant to replace and EXISTING 3-way circuit without any new wiring required. I used these instead of the  GE 45613 Z-Wave Technology 3-Way Dimmer Switch Kit  due to the fact almost every single light in my house is florescent.To wire the primary switch, you need to have ground, neutral, line (hot), load (to the light), and a travel wire leading to the other switchbox where the aux switch will be located. The aux switch only needs a ground, neutral, and the travel wire that leads back to the primary switch. Now you should be able to check your wiring and verify you have all the needed wires before tearing everything apart. For me, all the neutral wires were bound together, capped off, and shoved to the back of the box.I have installed a total of 3 of these sets now. The first one I installed was one I had ordered from Amazon's warehouse which had been opened and returned (I'm cheap, I'll save $5-10 every chance I get). I spent the better part of 2 days trying to figure out why I couldn't get it working. Finally the idea dawned on me to see if the primary switch worked properly on it's own. Nope, it was DOA, so back to Amazon it went (No that's not the reason I took away a star). Next up, a brand new one. So the brand new one went in as did the aux switch and worked perfectly. Total installation time for the first switch? About 9 hours of me wanting to break things because the first (used) switch was broken and about 30min to install the second (new) switch along with the aux switch. The next 2 sets of 3-way's I installed only took about 15-20min each now that I had the wiring down. I'm not a professional electrician but I'm sure if I kept at this, I could have them installed in about 10min.I think the directions could be expanded to include a few other ways a 3-way circuit can be wired as they only have a diagram showing one of the ways it could be wired. Lack of proper documentation for products is a major annoyance to me and the reason I docked a star. Seriously, pay someone for the extra 2 hours it would take to be thorough for your documentation.Another thing I feel need to mention because I've seen it in other reviews on here is the distance limitation between the switches. One of my switches is about 18 feet apart straight-line distance across the room. This doesn't account for the extra 4' on either end to get up the wall to the ceiling or the fact I have a vaulted ceiling it has to cross. The shortest my wiring can possibly be is ~30'and my aux switch has no issue turning the light on and off.Quick hints:-Wire in the primary after removing both switches from the old 3-ways and make sure it will turn on and off the light. Then you can move on and install the aux switch.-Mark the wires as you take them off the switch!-Check and double-check you're hooking up the correct wire to the correct spot on the switch. You'll feel stupid having to undo it all when you mix up the line and load wires.-If you have 2 or more of these installed next to one another, you'll need to break off the tabs on the side so they can fit close enough together to put the decorative plate over them. Only break off the ones you need to get them to fit.-For double- and triple-gang installations, I just daisy-chained the neutral (same with the hot/line) because it was just easier than pulling out the whole bundle for me. (No idea if this follows local wiring code but it's working just fine.)Other Thoughts;The blue LED isn't extremely bright and doesn't bother me. By default, it is ON when the switch if OFF and OFF when the switch is ON. It can help someone unfamiliar with the light switch location to find it in the dark. If you have an advanced remote, you can switch it so the LED is ON when the switch is ON. You can also install the switch upside-down and flip it to the correct way using an advanced remote. I haven't tested either of these because the default is what I needed.I have paired these switches to a couple different types of remotes and it has worked fine with all of them, A Go Control panel, one of the basic GE remotes, and a Intermatic HA-07 remote. Hurray for interoperability!You can hear the relay in the switch click when your turn it on and off. Not really a big deal because my old switches clicked when I flipped them on and off. I think you might notice it a lot more if you use the remote to turn the lights on and off. I've gotten used to it and barely even notice it anymore.These take up a lot more space in the electrical boxes but I didn't have any issues with not being able to get them to fit properly.

I recently installed two sets of these switches to control my outside flood lights. For the most part, installation was fairly easy, and they've worked perfectly so far. The key to having a successful installation is understanding how a traditional 3-way switch system is wired, and how these Z-Wave switches differ from those of a traditional installation. Once you understand the difference (which took me a while), installation becomes pretty straightforward.My only complaint is that these switches are much deeper than traditional switches, and thus they leave very little room behind them for wires. The most frustrating part of installation for me was trying to cram wires in the back of the electrical box so that the switches would fit. I'm sure the size of these switches is necessary for the Z-Wave functionality, but it made for a very unpleasant portion of the installation. I'm fairly new to electrical work, so I wasn't about to swap out the electrical box for a roomier one.I'd like to share what I've learned about 3-way switches in general and these switches in particular in order to help others who may be fairly new to doing their own electrical work:A traditional 3-way switch has three terminals: one common, and two travelers. In a typical configuration, depending on where the switch is situated in the circuit, the common wire is either bringing power from your service panel ("line") or continuing on to the light fixture ("load"). The two 3-way switches are connected together by the two traveler wires. When both switches are connecting their respective common wires to the same traveler wire, the circuit is completed, and the light goes on. If each switch is connecting its common wire to a different traveler wire, then the circuit is interrupted and the light is off.In a traditional 3-way switch system, both switches are identical, interchangeable, and equal partners in the work that they do. This is not the case with these Z-Wave switches. This set consists of a  GE 45609 Z-Wave Wireless Lighting Control On/Off Switch  (which can be used by itself in a single-switch installation) and a GE 45610 Z-Wave Auxiliary Switch. The primary switch does all the work of completing or interrupting the circuit, and it contains the Z-Wave functionality. The auxiliary switch basically acts as a wired remote control that sends a signal to the primary switch.In this setup, both the line and load are wired directly to the primary switch, and only one traveler connects it to the auxiliary switch. This is actually pretty easy to accomplish with existing 3-way wiring. At the primary switch, the old common wire becomes the line, use one of the old travelers as the load, and use the other as the only traveler. Then, at the auxiliary switch, connect the traveler to the switch, and connect the other traveler (now the line) directly to what was the common wire (load) on the traditional 3-way switch.There are multiple ways to wire a 3-way switch configuration, so your own installation may differ slightly. However, the same overall concepts will apply: one of the old travelers remains a traveler, and the other one connects directly to the line/load (common), bypassing the auxiliary switch entirely.One final note: All of these Z-Wave switches also require a neutral connection in order to power the switch itself. This usually isn't an issue, but occasionally you'll encounter an end-of-line switch configuration where the neutral/white wire is used as hot, in which case you won't be able to replace it with a Z-Wave switch.

Received these switches and installed them which work from my Amazon Echo. It took a little to figure out how to wire them but spoke to a electrician friend who guided me through it. They work great once I linked them to the Echo.

Poor instructions. Hard to understand and read.Complex setup. Wish Belkin would make one of these.Not easy to install. Markings on which wires to attach where is not clear and more complex to install.Not consumer friendly.

tanks, very good

work great, solid device...easy to install