Dorman937-663 Tailgate Lock Actuator Motor Compatible with Select Ford / Mazda / Mercury Models

and even better I paid half the price as if I got it from the local ford dealership. After I got the bad one out I carefully inspected the parts side by side and they are identical. On the side of the actuator there is what I believe to be a date code. If it is in fact my old one was from 2002 and the one I got from late 2015. I assume this same part is used in dozens of ford models if not in different car companies even. I changed this on a 2009 escape and it's the easiest fix ever. Pop the rear panel off the interior unhook 2 cables and remove 3 screws and bada bing. Now on to learn how to fix the part myself so I can go around charging all the people around here with the same thing to fix theirs even cheaper😎

I have a 2009 Ford Escape, and they are known for having the lock actuator fail due to water leaking into it and it resting shut. I have had a tailgate latch that has been stuck shut for 9 months now. I went to a dealership and got a quote of over $600 to fix the problem. After some research I found that it's very common problem & there are several articles & YouTube videos with step by step instructions on how to fix the problem yourself.This part is perfect, no need to buy the vehicle manufacturers part, this works exactly the same and saves you $40. I would recommend making sure to buy the weatherstripping and adhesive at the same time you purchase this product as you realistically need to replace both the latch and the weatherstripping at the same time for this fix to make a difference.

Better than the OEM part for two reasons. First it has a plastic sleeve on the locking C clip that latches to the door lock lug. That’s awesome for wet and cold weather car owners (less likely to get rusted and and fail). Secondly, this part was $30.00 cheaper than anywhere near where I live. Add the two day shipping to my house instead of the two day part wait from the auto parts store and it’s a no brainer.

I just received my actuator motor today and it was a breeze once I figured a few things out. My only problem was getting the motor to unlatch so that I could open the tailgate so that I could completely remove the plastic panel to gain access. I followed the best of the videos I found on YouTube but I found I couldn't get enough leverage under the release bar to pull it up enough to release the latch. Between a big hand and carpal tunnel in both hands it just wouldn't work for me. The service tech in the video demonstrated using a long handled broad blade screwdriver to pry loose the retainer clips holding the tailgate cover to give you enough room to reach down to the motor. I was able to free up the bottom most clips the same way and give myself some extra wiggle room to have better access to the motor. Then I used the same screwdriver to apply pressure to the inside of the release latch (as shown in the photos) and it popped right open. I also had to use a socket on the T27 star bit to get enough leverage to break the screws holding the motor since they were torqued and had Locktite covering all the threads. Since the screw threads are covered in Locktite make sure you start them back in by hand to keep from cross threading them.The only other problem I had was due to me not doing a quality assurance check on my work before I reattached the tailgate cover. I thought I had done a good job of pushing the connectors back in place and making sure they were snapped and tight. When I got back in the car to put it back in its parking place the Liftgate Ajar light was on and would not go out. After having removed the plastic cover the first time it only took about a minute to pop it back off, pull the door ajar switch connector off and reattach it securely. I closed the tailgate and started the vehicle again and everything was perfect so I put the cover back on and put the car away.In the attached photos, the first one points out the place i the YouTube video that the service tech tells you to pull up on to release the latch. The other two show where I pushed with the screwdriver blade to get it to release for me. As you either pull the bar or push the latch release with the screwdriver you also need to pull back on the tailgate to clear the latch point.All of the markings on the original motor that I removed and this replacement motor are identical and the weight and feel of both are also identical. What a savings this was. The local chain autoparts stores wanted $113 for the same motor and the replacement from Ford was almost $280. I found some for cheaper from Ebay and a couple of other sources but the suppliers were questionable with no guarantee and no two day shipping.

My actuator in my 2012 Escape was a victim of the leaking rear hatch seal and quit working, dealership wanted hundreds to do the repair. Found this replacement part and after gently tugging on the hatch panel it came off easily when the retention clips let loose. Removed just a few screws and the faulty actuator dropped right out. Put the new one in connected up the power connectors and it works like a champ! VERY easy to install and fits perfectly! Thanks for saving me a lot of money!

Paid a little more for the Dorman brand name than the fly by night Chinese parts out there. Easy to install and works great. A couple tips:1) be careful with the torq screws holding it on to the door. They are loctite on so they can strip easily trying to get them off. It's a T27 driver and turn steady & firmly2) Our old unit was rusted out pretty bad so it was definitely a leaky weatherstrip. I would HIGHLY recommend also replacing the weatherstripping or you will be replacing it again and dealing with a rusting out liftgate door.3) Make sure you test that door latches & the car's message center correctly informs when the "liftgate is ajar" before putting the door back together. The connections are tight and it'll give incorrect messages if they are not in all the way.

Looks like original, but latch wasn't functional. Had to remove solenoid from this one and replace my existing one with it on the old latching mechanism. I hate wasting time on taking stuff apart multiple times. Didn't submit for replacement because I didn't want to put the door back together and take it apart yet again while I roll the dice on another possibly non functional unit. Very disappointed.

Almost an exact match to the Ford OEM. Fit the 2012 Escape and would also fit a 2009 Escape. Install took about 10 minutes all in. Two electrical connectors to transfer over and 3 screws hold this in. If your latch is not working and thus why you are replacing it, you can manually open by pulling away your tailgate plastic interior from the hatch window and reaching down. Many YouTube videos on this as well.

Installed easily enough, second replacement in 5 years. Ford parts department rep said it is stocked for constant replacement. Says dust is a problem with these assemblies.The interior dome light stays on because the door ajar signal from the lift gate is always on. Returning and getting the part from Ford. Extra $90.00 isn't worth the hassle of a cheaply made non functional replacement.Would be easier to install if Ford had included a manual lock stem to open the liftgate if the electrical lock failed.

So like many people my tailgate lock was working properly. You could hear it try to work, and the more you tried the weaker it sounded.Super easy to change with a couple of tools, and this is a direct replacement. Like a few people have said the tailgate open warning wouldn't go away once I fitted it, and when I checked it's because the electrical socket on this assembly is tight. You just need to push the plug reasonably hard for it to click down all the way - sorted! No more errors and it works every time! A small dab of grease on the mechanism and it's all good!

Ordered the "used" version $105CDN from Amazon. (Repackaged or returned item) Seems to be repackaged only, so a good deal. Good fit replacement part for the original latch. Working in -7c to replace, the only thing was the latch sensor connector was a little difficult to seat properly. Nice to be able to open the rear hatch again !

Although it was well made the electrical connector for the Door ajar light did not mate correctly and my light on my dash was on, so I had to take the motor off the new one and put it on the old one. When I did this the electrical connector actually click in and solved my problem.