AlumiliteAmazing Clear Cast Plus [8 oz A + 8 oz B (16 ounces) 2 Part Kit] UV Resistant Plastic Coating & Casting Epoxy Resin for Countertops, Cups, Tumblers & Crafts | High-Gloss Liquid Glass Finish

I'm an expert at this now it seems. This is epoxy resin, it is FDA approved and once cured send to be completely stable.Pot/working time is 30-40 minutes. Cure time is a minimum of 24 hours for small-medium pieces. I've only had one piece yellow. It's UV RESISTANT once cured, however, the sun destroys everything eventually. I've encapsulated insects, flowers, mixed in dyes, glitters and sand, I know everything now. This is a great working product, but there are somethings you should know: The ratio is 1:1, there's no wiggle room there, period. If your mix is slightly off you will have a eternally tacky piece, measure with precision or work with something more forgiving. MIX! Mix until you're bored to tears and then mix some more, mixing in transparent semi-flexible cups (like the medicine cups provided) let you see if there are streaks, swirls, or cloudiness/filled with micro bubbles, all of these are signs that you're cutting corners on mixing. That mix should be clear, some bubbles are okay, but I'll get to that. You only have 40 minutes to mix in your additives, work quickly and be prepared. Keep your work space ready for the occasional sticky and incontrollable spill. Clean with alcohol while it's still wet, acetone probably works better but I ain't got time for that. Your enbedded items should be dry, slightly heat resistant, as I've clocked my resin curing at 170-degrees F for a 25oz piece. The thicker/bigger your piece is the higher the temp will be while curing, most small jewelry pieces experience little to no heating. If your embed is wet, your piece will eventually fail, bugs that seem dry might cook hidden fluids and wreck your piece, flowers that aren't dry will cook and discolor, keep that in mind. Dyes and glitters are the safest but honestly sometimes it just comes out looking cheap, just do you, okay? I've found that it takes 24 hours to be able to demold but another 24 hours until the tackiness is completely gone and the pieces are COMPLETELY CURED. I've also put a lot of finger prints on things in my impatience, do just forget about your piece for 48 hours, then demold. Also I don't wear gloves because this stuff is sooo sticky. I've read the SDS and technical data and you probably shouldn't but they don't make gloves that make that reasonable yet. If you have large bubbles, you can heat your piece up with a WARM hair dryer or do it like I do and just use a fire place lighter and hold a steady flame, ~1 second, over the surface bubble and it will pop right away. Otherwise smaller bubbles tend to de-gas by themselves while curing, if it's cloudy, as in filled with micro bubbles, try the hair dryer and gently warm up your material/resin surface, maybe a few tappy-taps on a solid surface, and a silent prayer to the Resin Gods might help too. If this is too much for you, it's okay to give up, it is an expensive, messy, and regularly frustrating hobby to have to learn from trail and error, so I hope someone can learn from my mistakes. Good luck. Cheers mate!

I never used this product before but needed a FDA food approved resin for a project. This stuff is magic. It is a 1-1 mix, easy to work with, slower work and cure time with a beautiful result. As far as I could tell from my many hours of research for such a product, Alumilite is the ONLY FDA food approved clear resin available at a reasonable price. It cures clear but can be dyed with translucent color or with an opaque white base & then qdding an additional color. Amazon has the best pricing on this product, including direct ordering from the manufacturer. I do wish Amazon offered the 2 gal size. The product has a shelf life of 1 year so ordering larger quantities would not present a problem. Be aware that Alumilite Amazing Clear Casting Resin is the only FDA food approved resin offered by Alumilite. Their other clear, water and white resins DO NOT meet the FDA requirements.

I have never worked with resin before and found this stuff pretty easy to use. I did a lot of reading online and came across some good tips that I think made a difference. If you need something with absolutely no bubbles then you will probably need a degas pump. While I did notice some bubbles in the final product they are very very tinny and only visible if looking very close and with the light at the right angle. I was pretty happy with the final result.Some things I found helpful were to pick up a package of little plastic drinking cups because there are only 3 measuring cups included. I would use the drinking cups and then throw them away after using instead of trying to wash them. To measure this stiff I would hold 2 cups side by side and mark with a sharpie. I also found that warming the two liquids help reduce the amount of bubbles. I would place in a hot water bath and stir side A liquid which is the thicker one until evenly warmed and then mix the two together.I attached a picture of my end result which is a pair of 1911 grips with a clear resin window.

I restore vintage 1966 figures that had space helmets with visors. The visors are not always present with the helmet. Also the figures heads were a soft material and are missing noses or were chewed on. I have casted replacement visors and heads with this resin with no trouble using silcone molds. I do use a vacum chamber and the resin comes out crystal clear. I am new to mold making but follow the instructions and stir thoroughly and all is good. They also make tints to color the resin.

After a lot of research in professional user groups, I chose this food safe reliable brand epoxy for coating the stainless tumblers I make. I was so stressed and delayed long before getting the nerve to jump in. This product was so easy to use, I didn’t need to worry. Protect your working surface, you will get some drips, and have a space heater or heat gun nearby, to help your epoxy go on better. The room, or at least immediate working area needs to be in the 70’s fahrenheit. It helps to warm the epoxy before applying, just hold it in front of the heater, or wave the heat gun around it. With my cup on a motorized turner, glovedhands, and a mask, I pour slowly and smooth the surface as it turns. I am pleased with the glossy, glassy, clear finished surface, after about 7 hours. Then I add decals, etc., and repeat with another epoxy coat. Some like to add a third coat.I do my spray paint and glitter (or no glitter) before epoxy.

Lo compre para utilizarlo en un vaso de acero inoxidable para recubrirlo y quedo super bien.Dos pasadas dejandolo secar 10 min y listo

Arrived before said date works a treat

Love it very smooth