12 oz. Clear Epoxy Resin & Hardener - 1:1 Mix Ratio-High Strength- Multi Purpose

I used this to repair a seat stay on a carbon fiber bike frame. I also bought the fabric from the same seller.The instructions that come with it aren't terrific, but you can look up "gy 6010" for plenty of detailed info. The seller has paired the resin with a good hardener for the DIY person. I mixed 2:1 (resin:hardener) by weight. I'm not positive it matters whether you mix by weight or volume. Either way, it will harden. Choosing weight-vs-volume will affect working time.I found the working time to be around 40 minutes. Nearing the 40 minutes, it is thickening. To have a good flowing liquid, the working time is 20 minutes. I found that if I had stirred air-bubbles into my batch, I could easily remove the bubbles with a quick blast from a heat-gun, then stir slowly. The heat gun will make the mix flow better, as well. Heating the mix while in your working time does not decrease performace of the epoxy.Once the epoxy has set up (two hours) you SHOULD add heat. The work should be heated for several hours. Ideally over 100*F, and under 140*. Will it harden at room temp? Yes. But the performance suffers. If you're using this for low-stress stuff, the difference in performance won't matter. Even still, don't try curing it under 70*F. Epoxy CURES, it doesn't DRY. Heat is NEEDED for the process. Some heat will come from mixing the chemicals. The rest needs to come from an outside source. This is not a knock against this product. All epoxies except for very special formulations will cure better by adding heat. Use a lamp, space-heater, sunlight, heat-blanket... if you are pouring a thick coating, and want to eliminate bubbles, heating well within the first 40 minutes will get the mix almost water-thin, bringing the bubbles to the surface where they more easily pop.I'm very happy with this product, and the seller. There is enough resin here to do a couple of tests, and probably do five repairs as shown below. Maybe more. I was glad to buy so much. Better to mix a batch bigger than what you need, than to run out while working. The final-result picture is a brushed-on coat of this resin, with no sanding or polishing.The steps I used: One sheet of plain-weave wrapped tightly (six or seven layers are wrapped). Allow to cure, sand smooth.One layer of twill weave, for looks and protection. Laid on smoothly. This layer wasn't tightly wrapped,Allow to cure about 12 hours, sand any high spots lightly.Final wipe of resin with brush. Hit this layer with a heat gun, to remove any bubbles and have it flow. After about 20 minutes, remove the tape I was masking with. This gives a good edge where the resin meets the exposed frame.I'm a first-time user. This DIY project saved a great bike frame.

I'm just getting into doing a little carbor fiber reinforcement on some items, so took the recommendation of this seller on the choice of epoxy resin & hardner to use.. Also did some reasearch on these particular grades of resin/hardener.This resin and hardner will be a considerably less viscous mix (runny) and much long open time before hardening, than the big box store items I've used for other small projects. My first experience working with carbon fiber showed this recommended choice to be correct for good reason.The thin mix is needed to fully penetrate the threads of the CF and ensure no voids are left underneath. The long set time allowed any trapped air to bubble out and makes a solid beautiful crystal clear encapsulation of the carbon fiber.Given the runnyness and long set time, working with a mold would be preferable, which I didn't have, but mounting the rather large 3D part in a very slowing rotating drive unit with the rotation essentially cancelling out the effect of gravity, kept the epoxy resin in place and curing to a shiny nice finish with no runs. and

12 oz. Clear Epoxy Resin & Hardener - 2:1 Mix Ratio-High Strength- Multi Purpose Nothing long winded here. Just buy it.Epoxy for carbon is higher price and I don't know why.But I am not willing to experiment with fiberglass cloth epoxies andruin an expensive piece of carbon cloth. Unless I meet an expert that has tried this.Play it safe and buy the right stuff here.

I use a lot of epoxies for a multitude of applications and this is going to replace a few of the other epoxies ive relied on. This product is has a perfect consistency, great penetration and bubble release, is super clear and cures at a reasonable rate to a great finish and sands well. It is fairly brittle, but it's not designed for bending applications.If I had a complaint, I wish it would come with nozzle squeeze tops, the openings for the 12oz size are an odd size and measuring perfectly takes careful timing when pouring.

Did some repair work on my car. My carbon fiber hood.

good quality when finished

Used to refinish a carbon fiber hood. Works great

Came in metal cans, not plastic bottles (not that it matters)