91007 EGR Valve

Like it fine. Used it to fix a check engine alert

The part fit exactly as intended and came with a replacement gasket to the throttle body. Two key takeaways from this replacement: The bolts that hold the EGR valve to the throttle body were put on by Superman at the factory. Those bolts are WAY overtorqued and require patience to get loose. I had to get into the engine compartment to get enough leverage.Lastly, since you have the entire thing unassembled, take the extra few minutes to remove the EGR pipe that attaches to the exhaust. Mine had carbon build up in it which caused the check engine light to come back on 3 weeks after I changed out the valve, so I had to go through another disassembly to clean the pipe out with a wire brush. Learn from my ignorance and spend the extra few minutes it takes to clean out the EGR pipe.

Works great but not sure if this was the problem. Check engine light came on and the dealer said this needed to be replaced. Either way now I have a new one installed and the fuel mileage did go back to normal after I replaced this so it was worth it.

For the price, this is a budget repair. On the 2004 and up 4.0 SOHC found in Explorer/Mountaineers, the DPFE sensor is integral to the EGR Valve, so this part replaces both items at once, hence the price increase over the older EGR valves. When installing, it makes it far easier if you remove the air intake tube and the throttle body. Its just four bolts but be careful to pull off the plastic spacer with gaskets between the throttle body and the intake, its the thing with the vanes sticking up. Its also a good idea to pull the throttle body on these as it probably needs cleaned anyway. There isn't an Idle Air Control in these and they use the drive by wire throttle body to set the idle. If yours has black crud where the butterfly closes top and bottom, your idle wont be what it needs and could set a code for that, not to mention idle rough and have slower throttle response. Hold the butterfly open and spray carb cleaner and scrub it out. Now that those parts are out of the way you can get easy access to the first thing you should remove, the exhaust tube from the manifold to the valve. Spray it with some penetrating lube and go slow and it should break free. I have had no issues here but have read of folks breaking the tube. Once that's off you can pull the vac lines off the back (one rubber block) and then unplug the electrics. These have a red tab you have to slide back before you can push the little tab down in the middle to unplug. If you forget to slide this tab back, you will have a very hard time unplugging. Take out the 8MM bolts using a 1/4 drive wratchet with a deep well socket and you can do them both easily standing on the passenger side. Don't forget that little metal gasket or it will fall down in your intake. Reverse to install the new one and viola, no more low EGR flow codes. The reason for my 4 star review on this is the packaging. My new metal gasket was folded in half and useless. I had to reuse my old one but its working just fine. I will update if this part dies before its time. Good luck!

Works as advertised! Had an EGR P code for low flow (Service Light) come on in my 2004 Ford Explorer 4.0 V6 SOHC. using my code reader. Bought an EGR unit from another store which did not work and caused misfiring. At this point I had removed and installed and reinstalled the old and new and old unit respectively. Wanted a unit with good reviews so I did not have to do more work....this one did the trick : )4/10 for difficulty. Tips for installation: Removal of the EGR tube is the hardest part...its on tight...use PB Blaster wait for an hour...tap it with a hammer...use a hot gun to heat it up...spray again wait then attack with a crescent wrench with a hammer and a large 1-1/16 wrench if you need it. Used a stool to put my knees in from the front of the car bending over the engine to get access to the 2 rear 10mm bolts. Don't forget the metal gasket...used the old one...worked great!Its great when you get a part that works and it feels good to fix a problem yourself. Hope this helps you all!

The part itself worked fine. But the box was torn so it was missing screws and the gasket. So I had to get a new gasket

I installed this really late on my car an regret not doing it right away. Piece of junk is broken. Now I’m out money and I had to buy another one from autozone. At least I got a warranty.

Check engine light on a high mileage Ford Explorer. The original lasted 206 K miles . Loosening the tube to the exhaust manifold the only challenge otherwise e z p z!