Leviton GFNT2-W Self-Test SmartlockPro Slim GFCI Non-Tamper-Resistant Receptacle with LED Indicator, 20-Amp, White

This is a great 20A GFCI receptacle to use for replacing old and warn out GFCI receptacles in your home. I used these to replace two in my kitchen recently and they work great. Over time (my old ones lasted about 15 years), GFCI receptacles need to be replaced in order to work correctly. Otherwise, they will pop their breaker on a regular basis until they're replaced. This unit is very basic and rather easy to install if you know what you're doing. Keep in mind that you have to turn off the electricity at the breaker panel in your home before rewiring one of these. Otherwise it could be fatal.

Initially had the wiring backwards, were connected the line wires to the load terminals, and the load wires to the line terminals. Didn’t work. Watching the video helped to reverse the wires, then it worked like a charm.The most challenging part is determining the two white wires, which of them is the load and which is the line. One of the black wires is the hot/line wire, it’s easy to test that with a voltage tester, and the other black is going to be the load wire. One black wire is the hot wire, one black wire is the load wire. There also two white wires. One of them is the load wire and the other one is the line wire that is coming from the other receptacle. In my case the other receptacle (regular outlet receptacles) is located in the backyard and this GFCI receptacle is located in the garage. Every time was raining, the GFCI receptacle was tripping. So I end up replacing both, since both of them already served for 13 years. But only the outside receptacle was bad. But with the installation of the new receptacle I added an additional waterproof cover.If you can see the white wires end inside the outlet box, the load wire usually is bundled up with the other white neutral/load wires. But if you can’t see the end of the white wire, most likely that’s the line wire coming from the other receptacle.Even if you do make the connection wrong, just reverse the white wires and that should correct the connection. Assuming that you already have identified the two black wires, which one of them is the hot wire and the other one is the load wire.In my application, there are of 4 wires plus the ground bare copper wire.1) Two wires are the load wires (one is white and one is black)2) Two wires are Line wires (one is white and one is black)3) Two “line wires” connects to the “line terminals”, and “two load” wires connect to the “load terminals”.As I mentioned, once you have identified which white wire is the line wire that is coming from the other receptacle, the other white wire is going to be the load wire. And in most cases the load wire is going to be bundled up with the other white wires in the outlet electrical box, connected with a short piece of white wire. If you can see this short white wire, then you should know that is the load wire to be connected to the load terminal. Both white wires connect to the chrome terminal screws and both black wires connect to the brass terminal screws. However one black wire is the hot wire, the other black wire is the load wire. Likewise one white wire is the Line wire and the other white wire is the load wire.Before the wiring, the white wires are the neutral wires and the black wires are the hot/line wire and a load wire. Also in a different application, the black load and white load wires can be referred to as the traveler wires, since they are coming from the other outlet. Mostly that applies to the 2, 3, 4 way light switches installation.Don’t get electrified! Turn off the power at the switch breaker before start any electrical work!

I bought this to replace a 16 year old GFCI in a bathroom whose sockets had gotten very loose from daily plugging and unplugging of hair dryers. With the old one, plugs were falling out with the slightest pull. Now they fit snugly, with a reasonable amount of insertion and removal force.It is very easy to install as long as you mind that the line vs load terminals (well marked) may be in different positions than your old one. This GFCI is slimmer than older ones, reducing crowding in shallow boxes. The indicator LED is a nice feature.The lack of tamper resistance is a real benefit in a location where you'll be plugging and unplugging daily, as the tamper resistant sockets are very fussy to use. Obviously weigh that against the additional safety tamper resistance provides if you have small children in the household. (though they probably won't be able to reach an outlet that is 4ft off the ground as in the typical bathroom.)

To preface, I have installed/replaced at least a few GFCI outlets in my life with success, and this is the first time I came across one that was wired the opposite of all the other GFCI outlets I have worked with.Every other time I replaced one, I simply pulled the old one out, and went around the connectors, detaching wires from the old one, and attaching them to the new one, one by one, to make sure I didn't mix up any wires, and to make sure they got wired to the correct connectors (I'm not an electrician, so I just go based off of looks for the most part, and a little common sense).Well this particular Leviton GFCI took me 3 tries to get right, and I only discovered the issue after looking at the wiring diagram, looking at the back of the Leviton GFCI, and then cross referencing with the back of the two older GFCI's I had laying around (I originally replaced the old 20amp with a new 15amp which was the only one at my local store, and then ordered this one to replace the 15 amp since it's a 20amp circuit), and this is what I discovered:The standard wiring (or what I am calling standard based off of majority vote from every GFCI I have purchased/pulled from walls), if you are looking at the back side of the GFCI, is as follows:At the top you have your two LOAD charges, black/live connects to the left, and white connects to the rightAt the bottom the have your two LINE charges, again with black/live on the left, and white on the rightAnd finally on the very bottom/underside you have your ground wire connection pointEvery GFCI outlet I have experience was wired as such, and this is how the Leviton GFCI differs:At the top, instead of 2 load charges, the two LINE connections are on the top this time, still with black/live on the left, and white on the rightAt the bottom you now have two LOAD CHARGE connections instead of the 2 line connections, and again still black/live on the left and white on the rightAnd then still the ground connector is on the very bottom/undersideTo summarize: normally GFCI outlets have the LINE connections at the bottom near the ground connection, and the LOAD up top, but these Leviton GFCI outlets have the LOAD connections at the bottom with the ground, and the LINE up top.This means if you wire the outlet exactly like the one that was in your wall it will not work. you have to flip your black wires, and flip your white wiresFor me 2 black were on top and 1 black on bottom, and 2 white on top 1 white on bottom, and had to change it to 1 black on top and 2 black on bottom, and 1 white on top and 2 white on bottom)Other than that, the GFCI works as it should and solved the electrical issues I was having in this room.Just, you know, look at the thing before you put it in..

High quality receptacles. These are easy to use and are heavy duty! I would definitely recommend them.