Motorcraft SP-515 Spark Plug, Pack of 1

Good plugs so far. Ordered 16 as I have two Ford vehicles that needed plugs. Changed the set on first vehicle and I had one cylinder that kept throwing code so I changed coils as well and it was still throwing code so I changed the plug again with one of the remaining 8 and problem cleared. I changed plugs in my second vehicle and again the same plug kept throwing code on that cylinder. Not sure what was wrong with it, it looked fine from outside, maybe it had a broken center conductor? Regardless, I requested a new one from Amazon and it was delivered quickly and worked great. Only time will truly prove how good plugs are. Both my vehicles already had over 100k on orignal plugs before starting to have issue. Just hope these are close to that good

Before I start my review, if you are going to replace the spark plugs on your 2006 5.4L 3V engine please buy this tool as well.http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00267PZUK/ref=oh_details_o02_s00_i01?ie=UTF8&psc=1I followed the Autolite OEM procedure to the letter and still had one spark plug break.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2Gz5Pd-hrWQ1. Carb cleaner - check2. 1/8th turn - check3. Overnight soak - check4. Beam style torque wrench (less than 28ft lbs) - check5. Seven of 8 plugs were removed and one broke.WIthout the Lisle tool, it would have been a miserable day. These are supposedly the updated plugs that will prevent any more plug breakage when they get replaced. After approximately 700 miles, the Expedition is running fantastic. The symptoms that prompted me to replace the plugs was the occasional miss/stumbling around 45-50mph. That is now gone.Good luck.

Good spark plug at a good price

So far these plugs are doing quite well. My misfire is fixed and my truck runs very well other issues aside (I've got a few problems left to fix. 100k maintenance check was missed) the plugs themselves work great and were very easy to install. However the stock plugs for the 04 to 2010 (pretty sure that's the year range) will be extremely difficult to remove because they were poorly designed. You will be almost guaranteed to need a plug extractor because the bottom of the plugs will get stuck. That said you'll be saving a ton of money because mechanics will charge a significant fee for the job.

These are the plugs I put in my 2007 F-150 after removing the crappy original ones. The original plugs are known for breaking inside the engine head. Go on YouTube, there's tons of videos on how to remove them. 4 out of 8 broke in my truck. What a nightmare! Spray the old plugs with Sea Foam or PB Blaster overnight. Give a quarter turn and spray them down again. Some people recommend a cold engine, but if I did this again it would be with the engine warm. You will need a couple 1/2" extensions and probably two universals. Use a torque wrench to remove the old ones. Don't go over 33 ft lbs or you will brake the plug. Buy the Lisle spark plug removal tool before you start. If you break one it's the only way you'll get it out. Make sure you put nickel anti-seize on the threads of your new plugs so they aren't so hard to remove down the road. I bought Permatex 77134 Nickel Anti-Seize Lubricant. My friend took his truck to the dealer and they charged him $1200 to change the plugs. Might as well put new coil packs on as well. Good luck!

These are not the latest version of these spark plugs. I bought these because I was having a misfire issue on a few cylinders and my first thought was to change the spark plugs since they were still the stock ones with 93k miles on the truck. They went in fine, but didn't solve my issue. I did a lot more trouble shooting on my own, replacing the ignition coils and injectors without solving my misfire issue. I finally broke down and took it to a Ford dealer to tell me what my problem is. They tell me that I put in an old version of these SP-515 plugs and now ford recommends the SP-515 version PZT-14F. I'm not sure what version these plugs are other than that they are not the current ones that Ford recommends so now I have to buy new plugs again (this time from the dealership to be sure I get the most up-to-date ones) and change them again.

Stuck these in my F150 5.4 L 3 valve triton using Permatex 77134 Nickel anti-seize. I was getting a 'chug' that I tried to fix with sea foam. The 'chug or clunk' only occurred under load (such as uphill, even gently), and usually when in cruise control. The sea foam fixed short term. However, I then got steady then flashing CEL (check engine light). Uh-oh. Engine ran rough and was drinking gasoline. Expletives ensued. Got on the forums, ran a diagnostic. Cylinder 1 and 8 misfiring. So I replaced the COP (see my other purchases) on each cylinder and swapped out the plugs as well. I have maybe 70,000 miles on these plugs and COPs. Ran diagnostic again, cleared the error lights, and am now running like a champ. FYI I'm not a mechanic, just a week-end wrench-turner (at most.)

Used the Motorcraft SP-515 as my replacement plug and I no longer have a misfire! Also, I was able to remove all 8 original plugs without any of them breaking. I watched a couple of Videos on YouTube first, but essentially did the following:1. Get the engine to normal operating temps.2. Remove all the COPs and clean the surrounding areas of dirt and debris.3. Spray PB Blaster on to each plug and let it sit for a few minutes.4. Use a Dewalt 18V cordless impact to remove the plugs. You will need a 12" & 8" extension and a u-joint to get the plugs closest to the cabin, but it works.5. Make sure to put nickel anti-seize on the threads and portion of the plug that extends into the head (not the tip).6. Put dielectric grease on the COP connections.Whole job took about 3 hours. Good Luck!!

GREAT

C'est Parfait !

as advertised

Worked as it should absolutely no problems. However, I went to purchase the remaining ones I needed and noticed the price quickly doubled from the previous 15 or so dollars each.

Fast shipping got me out of a bind . Same crappy motor craft plug that breaks of inside your intake and need to go fishing for pieces with an other aftermarket tool to get it out. Stay away and buy the Champions