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๐ ๏ธ Upgrade your drive with MOOGโs super strength universal joint โ because your truck deserves the best!
The MOOG 295 Greaseable Super Strength Universal Joint is engineered for Chevrolet Silverado 1500 and compatible trucks, featuring cold-forged alloy steel construction, 360-degree grease distribution, and MICRO SHIELDโข corrosion protection. Designed for high torque applications, it offers a precision fit and durability backed by rigorous MOOG testing, ensuring reliable, long-lasting drivetrain performance with easy maintenance.











| ASIN | B000N8QXNM |
| Best Sellers Rank | #213,840 in Automotive ( See Top 100 in Automotive ) #116 in Automotive Replacement Universal Joints |
| Brand | Champion |
| Brand Name | Champion |
| Color | Silver, Black |
| Customer Reviews | 4.6 out of 5 stars 236 Reviews |
| Global Trade Identification Number | 00746079086308 |
| Item Shape | U-Shape |
| Item Weight | 16 ounces |
| Manufacturer | MOOG Driveline Products |
| Material | Alloy Steel, nitrile |
| Material Type | Alloy Steel, nitrile |
| Model | 295 |
| Number of Items | 1 |
| Part Number | 295 |
| Shape | U-Shape |
| UPC | 080066605630 746079086308 |
| Unit Count | 1 Count |
M**B
WELLVWORTH THE MONEY
Perfect fit. Always wary about buying online but, these worked perfectly. Had perks and installed easily
J**H
What you expect from MOOG products
2001 Ford Excursion 4x4 Limited 7.3L Powerstroke I had a noticeable vibration during accel and decel, around the 35-40 mph range. After 18 years, I suspected it was the universal joints in the rear driveshaft, backed up by focused Powerstroke internet groups that have experienced the same problems. These are high-quality universal joints, as expected from Moog. I went with the heavy duty greasable joints. Given the price point, it's money well spent, and only a few $ more for ease of maintenance. I've used Moog products on all my rebuilds, including ball joints, suspension and sway bar components, and these universal joints. I was not disappointed, these are quality universal joints. Installation is not necessarily for the faint-of-heart DIY'er, but it's not that difficult with basic shop tools, and a big hammer (i.e. I needed a sledge hammer). It is very helpful to have a help buddy -- much easier with two. To get the best access, I backed up my Excursion on rear ramps, to raise the rear end. NOTE: CHOCK THE FRONT WHEELS ! When you remove the driveshaft, you have disabled the transmission brake -- the vehicle CAN roll if you're not careful. Safety First! REMOVAL: MARK THE DRIVESHAFT LOCATION, i.e. run a bead of spray paint at the connection points (interfaces to driveshaft) so you can put it back in the SAME position as it was before. These shafts are balanced at the factory, so you want to put it back the same way it was installed. Remove the driveshaft from the vehicle. For Ford DANA rear-ends, there is a 4 bolt connection at the rear differential "hogs head", and a similar connection at the front 4x4 transfer case. Getting the driveshaft out is easiest with 2 people, as it's heavy and bulky. Once the driveshaft is out, remove all the "C" clips from one end of the driveshaft (there are 4). Now the fun part. If your parts are rusty (likely), soak them with penetrating oil for a few hours. This makes removal a lot easier. Soak twice if necessary! If you have a universal joint removal tool ... great! If not, you can use a socket (sized for the joint diameter) and a Big Hammer to pound out the old joint cups. Pound out the 4 old cups and the joint will be free. Once you start you'll get the idea. The joint is a tight fit for obvious reasons, a little work and you'll get it free. INSTALLATION: Use scotch-brite or steel wool to clean out the rust from the joint receptacles where the new cups will go. A light coating of grease on the cups will aid installation. Install the U-joint, then gently drive the cups in until they are just past the C-clip groove. Install C-clips ensuring the are fully seated in the groove. Now gently drive the U-JOINT (not the cups), back and forth to ensure the cups are fully against the C-clips. Failure to do so will cause binding in the joint. Once the joint moves freely, grease with a high-quality approved grease until the seals on the cups bulge, or leak slightly. Repeat on the other end. Re-install driveshaft (factory torque specification) according to the paint marking so the driveshaft is in the "OEM installed" position. Jeff Cincinnati, OH
S**E
Used On 2004 f250 sd
These are a perfect fit on rear drive shaft. I have had a good experience with this brand on my Jeep liberty. I suspect that they will hold up for the long haul on my work truck. I will check back in six months for an update.
D**N
easy to install.
with the correct tool this was easy to install- good fit.
D**H
1
On time and as described
B**T
Fit like a charmer
Promptly got our 4WD forklift back into service. I really appreciate the needle grease fitting at the end. It makes it much easier to access the fitting.
T**N
Moog Quality & Easy to Install
I've had very good luck with Moog products so I decided to give these a shot. I'm about 2,000 miles in and no disappointments. The installed easily, run smooth and my driveline vibration is gone. I wish they came with an actual grease zerk, instead of the needle fitting but that's a minor complaint given what they are.
D**E
Fit my 1994 Dodge 2500 4x4 5.9l diesel rear driveshaft both front and rear u joints
perfect fit on the old lady 1994 Dodge 2500 4x4 long bed single cab diesel. bought 2 for the rear drive shaft, front and rear u joints on rear driveshaft. Which were in need of replacement...rusted in, glad I replaced them.
Trustpilot
2 days ago
1 month ago