RinnaiV65iN Tankless Hot Water Heater, 6.5 GPM, Natural Gas, Indoor Installation

The piping that, in my case went up through the crawl space, then through the roof was tricky to install. Ordered all new pipe after measuring carefully and cataloging the fittings I'd need (45's, 90's, and so on). Make sure to order the right diameter double-walled pipe. Look online. I ordered online and the company actually shipped the same day, and it came the next, which is nice if, like me, you are without hot water in the interim.S. Brewer's review is excellent. He covers all the crucial points very well. He explains clearly what you will be faced with if you decide to DIY the job. It was challenging. When you get to the point of lifting the unit up to hang it on the wall while simultaneously marrying it to the vent pipe, a second set of hands would be a major plus. I did it myself, but a second set of hands would be real boon at that point.I was able to use the existing hole in the roof, but, as it turned out, the contractor who built the house preferred to cut a gigundo hole in the roof instead of doing the geometry to accurately predict the penetration location and hole size. To compensate, I created a plywood insert with a proper hole cut into it, pre-drilled the screw holes, and then used light cord to pull the "mask" up from above, up on the roof. Once I had it placed properly, I used a right-angle drill to drive in the screws from underneath.Don't forget that you'll need a flashing unit on the roof to make a good waterproof seal, and also some roofing tar to further seal it. Be careful when lifting the shingles to slip the flashing unit under them to avoid breaking them. If you do some minor damage to the surrounding shingles, use the roofing tar to compensate.Once installed, the unit works very nicely with the caveat that it does not seem possible to set the temperature above 120°F. That's really sufficient, but my old unit was set at 125°F. Not a deal breaker.If you've not had an on-demand heater before, be aware that when running hot water, there's a lag before you actually get hot water. With this unit about 20' from the kitchen sink, that's about 30-45 seconds before the water warms up.Overall, very happy to have hot water again, and this unit outperforms the previous, larger capacity unit it replaced.Install a phosphor filter upstream from the unit to reduce maintenance flushing. Do install the valve set that will later permit de-scaling the boiler tank. This is important for the longevity of the installation.TIP: use the woven steel, flexible pipes to connect the unit to gas, inlet, and outlet pipes. These are much easier to work with than their copper counterparts, which are hard to bend-- MUCH easier.Good luck. If you prepare well ahead of actually doing the job, you will greatly reduce the stress factor in carrying out the actual installation. Do your homework. YouTube is your friend.... and DO read S. Brewer's excellently written and potentially very helpful exposition on the entire process of installing these units.p.s. If you need hot water in a hurry at your taps, you'll want to spend the extra spondoolix for the unit with a recirculating pump: it's a luxury, but if you prefer faster delivery of hot water to your taps, you'll want that version of the heater.Cheers, N.

We have this at our campgrounds in our 45’x14’ Northlander. Works great and easy on the LP. Was easy to setup and easy to winterized.

Excelente producto, caliento rápidamente y sin complicaciones. Ampliamente recomendado.

Haven't had a chance to install it yet

Been using this for 4 months now, couldn't be happier with it.Was told by a plumber to make sure you get the bypass valves so you can descale it every 6 months or so.