1/10 Scale 4X4 On-Road Rolling Chassis Frame Kit - Hobby Grade RC Car Chassis for Adults, DIY Customizable RC Car Frame (Electric Parts Not Included)

Very nice car for the price! Gear ratio seems a bit locked but all upgrades can be found on AliExpress. Handles great and just needs a bit of tuning and steering angle to be a top performer.

Excellent features for the price. Adjustable turn buckles for camber and toe. Adjustable an arm height. Slipper clutch design is always good but has plastic clutches not fiber. Oil filled metal shocks, metal drive shafts and center shaft. Better spec than Tamiya and Kyosho. However, the diffs are very tight and need adjustment.

Good stuff!

Luv the set up been awesome

This is a pretty decent chassis kit for a low price. I did have to go through and re-shim the differentials. They were extremely tight and the car would barely roll out of the box. Otherwise, I'm happy with it.

I really liked this kit. It was what I needed. However, I had to start replacing plastic parts pretty soon. To be fair I drive the thing pretty hard. But be prepared to gradually replace plastic parts for metal ones as they break. I did run into a problem. I lost the manual which was my guide to knowing which part to order replacements for. Vendor has no obvious website and I cannot find the manual online anywhere. I really need a copy of the manual. Any idea where I could get it?

This appears to be an incredibly nice chassis and a great value. It's well put together and has adjustable turnbuckles on every piece a high end car would have. The rod ends are captured, it has an adjustable servo saver and all the necessary hardware is included. I look forward to driving it soon.

TL;DRI’m pretty hard to please but I’d definitely buy another and will. Could use a touch more reinforcement, but if you’ve the know how. It will take little effort and if I’m being honest. Probably unnecessary. But since I know it could be better, I’ll accept nothing less. This chassis has a lot of feature rich qualities that upper end chassis have and even kits that don’t out of the box.I initially purchased this because I had this grandiose idea. Suspicious that the swing arms would be somewhat compatible with very minor mods, if not precise swap with my Tamiya TT-02. Thus, saving me some money in upgrading the front steering and have a secondary chassis to boot. Nope,…not really at least. I could probably make it work, but I don’t want to. This chassis feels like it was made to be beaten up. Not because it’s cheap and worthy of being treated poorly like junk. With a slipper gear, really beefy oil dampers, adjustable down travel (droop) on the swing arms, all the screws are hex, metal pinion, metal bevel gears in the differentials, ball bearings, servo saver, metal motor mount, metal CVD drive shafts, metal center shaft, and so on.The weakest part of the chassis is the tub. It’s composite plastic, (plastic reinforced with fiber, which many name brands use). I know for sure it is, because the one thing poorly done on this chassis is some flashing left behind from the molding process. Not a big deal that a light scrape with a hobby knife won’t take care of. Also, not at all negative impacting to functionality. But if you like clean lines like I do, you’ll clean it up a bit. When you do, you’ll feel the gritty crunchy feedback of running the blade over the flashing that composite plastic tends to do.Back to why I say it’s the weakest part of the chassis. It’s thin and though there are molded bracing to some degree. It’s not the type of bracing that lends to stiffening it up across the tub. It’s more like…dividers. When it’s all put together, it’s rigid and takes a bit of force to flex it. This is indoors in a controlled climate. I’ve not taken it outdoors in the +90° F heat yet, but I’m confident that same applied force would exaggerate more flex. I plan to further reinforce it with a custom cut carbon fiber plate in the tub or the full underside. Likely the full underside for the next reason.I don’t like that the chassis has a cut opening which exposes the motor and spur gear. On this or any car’s chassis. I’m sure those attempting speed run setups would welcome the freedom of using massive spur and pinion gears without being limited by the floor of the chassis. Not this guy, so I’ll get covered.Finally, the only researched this chassis after buying it. It appears this chassis is more common to brands sold in Europe or other regions outside of the US (and China of obviously). So you should be able to find these parts, even here on Amazon.The brands are, VRX RH1026, VRX RH1004k, VRX 10951, etc. There’s also various FTX models that use this chassis in part or wholly like FTX Banzai, Vantage, Zorro, etc. There more, all you need to do it use one of these images and use Google Lens to find products on the web that use this chassis.The only thing I purchased for this chassis, outside of already spare electronics were sway bars. I didn’t want to wait the two weeks to get the sway bars that are for this chassis. I searched here on Amazon for alternatives that looked similar.Losi Tenacity Sway bars are the exact match with a minor difference. The oval clamps that screw into the differential housing case which secures the sway bars aren’t compatible. The screws are too small and the oval clamps are just a touch too small. However, they were unnecessary. Since I had small self tapping screws that actually holds the sway bars in place just the same. For those who don’t have any will to think outside the box or have things on hand that let you. Stick with the sway bars that are made for the RH1026.I’ll edit my post later with pics.