RepRapper Brass MetalShift 3D Printer Resin 405nm Fast UV-Curing Standard Photopolymer 3D Printing Resin with Metallic Shine for LCD Printer, Gilded Glow 1000g

As other reviews have already suggested, it perhaps not what one is expecting based on the resin presentation that perfect metallic mask. However, the resin is definitely useful, not a total garbage and it works as a standard gold-ish resin. Nice level of detail as you can see in the photo and definitely shiny under the right light angle. Don’t expect much, and buy it if you want your prints to have that gold-ish look. I am satisfied. After calibrating I found almost perfect results in 3.75seconds exposure for normal and a 40seconds for base. An interesting thing I notice is that this resin doesn’t expand nor shrink really with overexposure or under exposure. I haven’t tested anything else above 4sec but I found it interesting to notice

I’ve used quite a few different SLA printer resins, and unfortunately, this one has been the worst by far. Fine details are practically nonexistent, and even larger aspects of my prints came out undefined and blurry. No matter how I adjusted my settings, the resin just wouldn’t produce sharp, clean results.On top of the poor print quality, it was a pain to clean. It left behind excess cured residue in places where it shouldn’t have—something I haven’t experienced with any other resin. This led to messy, unusable prints with extra material where there shouldn’t be any.To make matters worse, the resin yellowed within just a few days, completely ruining the crisp white color I was expecting. If you need a high-detail, clean-printing white resin, this is absolutely not the one to get. I won’t be using it again.

I haven't seen any reviews for the Flex and have to say with a little bit of trial and error this stuff is amazing. I went through quite a few bottles but I'm trying something a little different than what most would use it for. Along the way I've learned that you can easily tint the white resin any color using concentrated pigment (use sparingly), Mica powders, and alcohol inks (I used Pinata brand) with some absolutely wild results. The initial burn layers should be set to somewhere around 60 to 65 and the remaining layers I've found our best set at between 7.5 and 8.2. You really can't go wrong with this stuff and it's a third of the cost of some of the "rubber-like" resins.

Printed quite a few functional parts, it's got almost no odor, the impact resistance of the cured parts is fantastic as far as resins go, and held up to a few strikes from a hammer before fracturing, but it didn't splinter or create sharp edges.Casual drops of figures or the like made from this will probably survive fine. The flexibility is not great though, so i wouldn't consider it that close to nylon. It also really gums up your alcohol bath, even small amounts take over your alcohol and stay seated at the bottom of the tank even during agitation.

The good, when the light hits it just right it looks cool, good flexibility. The bad, prints come out with poor dimensional precision, skewed and warped, when the light doesn’t hit it just right it is a funky translucent brown, and it is extremely messy. Thoroughly clean your entire printer after every print and change your washing IPA after you’re done, the metallic pigments will clump together in your vat potentially causing crashe that can cause failed prints or even damage your printer if you try to print back to back prints, and they ruin your IPA. Lots of cleanup involved. Overall it works, but do not use it for parts that connect together, they will already be skewed and warped before the print is even finished, this is for figurines and stuff. Also very brittle and messy to break off from the build plate, leaving chunks everywhere.

I've only tested the brass metallic, but not very impressed. I've printed this model many times with my usual resin and never had any failures, so please ignore the failed supports and what not, I spent no time dialing in the resin settings and just used what the website said to use.First off this resin is brittle, like shatters getting it off the build plate brittle, lowering the burn in layer time would probably help. I had to run very hot water over my build plate to get it off.Second, it doesn't look all shiny and metally like the example pics on the listing, it's more of a dark yellow with a little glitter. Maybe if I used a model with more bends and whatnot maybe it'd look better, but that's not what I wanted to print.Will I buy it again? Probably not, still need to test the silver and red but if it's like the brass I don't see myself buying it again.Gave it 3 stars because it does work, details are good, it's just not a metallic as it made it seem to be.

I am building D. von Braun's bottle suits that were designed in the '60s for a diorama I'm building. I got this resin to make the bubble canopies of the suits. It took several tries to get it right. The resin would print alright, but I was having trouble with supports and getting the canopies "crystal clear". I worked out the problems I was having with the supports and the canopies came out very clear, until I washed them. I got some ultra clear polyurethane and dipped the canopies in that. This worked very well, it's not completely glass like, but is still pretty clear. I'll buy this again.

Was disappointed of how this would not calibrate or produce a viable print. The amount of Mica powder would not allow proper curing during the print cycles. Tested for calibration using the starship model by 3DRS. No matter what exposure time it would not print well.