PFERD CS-X Chainsaw Chain Sharpener, 5/32" File for 3/8" Low Profile

Bottom line up front: Try this sharpener. It is totally worth it if you can get the hang of using it (which is easy)! I'll preface this review by admitting that I don't have a ton of experience with chainsaws. (But this sharpener works great for a novice) When I started cutting my own firewood, I tried using a handheld chain sharpener, that I got cheap with the saw, with zero luck. I don't know if I just didn't have the patience to do it right, but it just didn't get the chain the sharpness I wanted. I bought a kit that went in the dremel, once again, not a solution. I did a little better with that, but the "angles got off" according to the guy that I brought the chains to to get sharpened. The only good solution was to carry multiple chains, and swap them if they started getting dull, then bring all the dull ones in to the local dealer to get them sharpened. Then I saw some videos, reviews, etc on the Stihl version of this (which costs a lot more) and thought I would give the Pferd a try, as from what I can tell, they are the same. It look a little bit to get used to it, but once I got the hang of it, it works fast and gives you a razor sharp chain. Operating it is simple, I like to set the saw on a table or tailgate, stand to one side, figure out which end of the sharpener to hold, and then start sharpening. The angle on the tool helps me keep the correct angle on the sharpener. Once the entire chain is done from the one side, I turn the saw around, and go end for end with the tool, and repeat with the other teeth. Usually 3 passes per tooth on a dull chain, and it's razor sharp again. There's no need to take the chain off, or drive to the dealer to get it sharpened. I always sharpen after a day of cutting, and usually that's sufficient, but it's easy to sharpen in the woods also. I really didn't think I'd ever get away from getting the chains professionally sharpened, but this inexpensive tool has already saved me over $100 in sharpening costs. Not to mention prolonging the life of the chain, as I've heard some other people complain about the amount of material the dealership takes off when they sharpen. I don't have to be constantly worried that I might dull my chain and have to bring it to the dealer. Possibly the best indication that I love this tool is that I bought one for my dad. He's a dremel sharpening devotee, but I'm working on getting him to incorporate this, because I really believe that this is the best way to maintain your chains. It also works really quickly, maybe 10 minutes to sharpen a 20 inch chain.

I didnt expect very much of this, because I bought it pretty much just as a handle replacement after my existing file handle wore out. I have tried all kinds of files and jigs in the past 30 years, as I cut a LOT of wood. I've tried Dremel based stone sharpeners, and rotary disc sharpeners, but both of these are only suitable in a benchtop environment, remove too much metal, and leave a slightly wrong profile on the teeth that adds up to a not very good sharpening job. I tried the wobbly clamp-on jigs that newbies start with, and usually end up throwing away because they're a pain in the butt to use and too delicate to carry in a field box without smashing them. So like most serious woodcutters, I've ended up with just a flat file, a round file and a handle that fits both when I go into the field. I bought this one when my handle wore out, and you can imagine how many files it takes to wear out a handle completely. I thought the all in one raker file was "cute" and gimmicky, and fully expected to pull that file out whenever I wanted to actually use it. This is because I tend to file my rakers extremely aggressively... I'm not running a big engine to produce fine sawdust but to "flow chip" out of the saws exhaust port. So the first time I tried this file, I was very surprised that it actually was making contact with my rakers at about the same depth that I would have filed them - except that it wasn't consistent, which surprised me as it exposed how inconsistent my freehand filling actually was. Consistency is good. Over time, this file may actually improve my half-used chains! I have one chain a buddy sharpened so wrong it rolls lengthwise in an 18" log, so I may REALLY challenge it to even-out that one...unfair test! So, how did it file (with experience but not obsessive care)? Chisel sharpness: about 90% as sharp as I CAN get the teeth, based on subjective grabbiness. That's arguably PERFECT since a truly razor sharp tooth cuts one log great and then goes dull. This is DARN sharp when fresh, and should hold the sharpness longer. Comfort: if you have to do 36" fulltooth chains a couple times, most simple handles will give you a bruise. This is a good chunky handle that fits well in hand. My hands wrapped it well for great control (keep in mind, YOU still have to control angle and leveling since this isn't a sliding miter jig). There are multiple angle reminders on the tool including the end handles themselves, so correct angle is really easy to see -- just obey it! How does the chain actually cut? If it take my time on a bench with my old file, I can handsharpen about as well as a brand new blade. With this in my pouch, I can touch up my blade in about 1/2 the time, and just as well when less ideally sitting on the saw in the woods. I haven't gotten new hands, and I consider this still a freehand file, so I'm absolutely amazed how much better it works. Thus is a great file for initiates to learn on, and speedy file for more experienced users. Just to cover a couple more questions that I had before buying it... 1) it holds two round files, one for each direction and a flat file for ambidextrous rakers - it does NOT file two teeth at once. 2) each handle of this type is uniquely compatible with ONLY one file diameter and tooth spacing. You "shouldnt" use this if either doesn't match your chain. It won't work right with the wrong diameter files. 3) although it takes standard 8" round files, I really like the Pferd files...at only $1 each, they are worth using Pferd files instead of really cheap junk. Don't hobble yourself.

I saw the stihl one at first, and thought it looked like a gadget and was expensive for a chaisaw file. So I sharpened with just a file. That didn't go so well. I thought I was ok but it cut like crap. So then I bought an "angle guide" file. That was much better to keep the angle. But the main problem with those, is that you cannot control the height of the file. It just "falls into" the round groove, and you kind of file a little back and a little up to try to get a straight point, but if you go too much you dull it.. So you get sharp edges, but not really a nice sharp point. So I decided I should try this, considering pferd make great files. So I tried it today. THIS IS AMAZING. I'm not kidding. The height is perfectly set by the guide bars, so you just file. Because the height is perfectly set, you get a PERFECT edge and sharp point. It took less than 10 minutes and ALL my teeth have perfect sharp edges and points. This is magic. If you think you are doing well without one of those, you aren't. Try one and you won't believe it. (I guess the stihl one is good too, I just happened to like pferd and was already ordering their files). You need to file less than you think, sometimes like 2-3 passes and it's a nice point. Just wow. (oh and also it keeps the non cutting guide 25 mils below the cutting edge automatically. That wasn't much of a concern for me, but still, it does it automatically too.

great tool

Wow is what I will start with, this thing works way better than I could have expected. I hand sharpen my chains and because the way my bench is setup I always tend to favor one side, which after a while leads to the chain pulling to one side when cutting. I decided to give this tool a try and also bought a new chain because I figured my old one was not worth saving. When this arrived I figured I would at least try it on my old chain, not expecting much. Well it totally corrected my chain after just one use. I was blown away by how well it cut, it was like a new chain. I’m totally a believer now and the only problem I have is that I didn’t buy one sooner!

I bought this for a relative who was looking for a more convenient way to sharpen chainsaw chains on his small chainsaw. I recommended this because it is easy to learn to use properly, and quick and easy to sharpen and get good results. While I do highly recommend it for someone looking for an easy way to sharpen a chainsaw and also set the height of the depth gauges (a.k.a. "rakers), I gave it 4 out of five stars because I find the Husqvarna roller gauges seem to do a SLIGHTLY better job. They take a bit more learning to use well, and are a bit more time consuming, since adjusting the depth gauges is a separate step. However, since they use a progressive style tool to set the depth gauges, the performance of the chain is slightly better, and it is far less sensitive to needing every tooth the same length. The difference in cutting performance is minor, and most chainsaw users will probably not notice. Many of those who do notice still prefer the Pferd CSX due to the convenience and time-saving aspects of sharpening with one. You may run into old hands who sneer at using a guide for sharpening a chainsaw, preferring to free-hand file with just a bare round file. I urge users to ignore them. The Pferd Chainsharp CSX does a very good job when used correctly, as do several other styles of sharpeners. I've met many dozens of experienced chainsaw users who THINK they do a good job of sharping a chainsaw with just a bare round file. I've met exactly 3 people who actually CAN do a better job than someone with a bit of practice using a guide. Just let them make their comments, and continue sharpening your saw. With just a bit of practice, you'll be getting great results.

Pferd makes the Stihl sharpeners, in orange plastic. It also makes them in blue plasic, with the Pferd brand on them. If you insist on orange plastic, go ahead and pay twice as much. These gizmos do a fantastic job of sharpening your chain's cutters. All of my chains now cut as fast and clean as they did when new, it doesn't cost me a thing, and sharpening with this gizmo doesn't take away near as much metal as having it done at the saw-shop. The first two or three chains you sharpen, you'll want to do it carefully. 1 - fasten the saw's bar in a vise (preferably, using plastic or rubber jaw-covers). I put a block under the engine to hold the bar close to level. 2 - engage the chain brake, and use a Sharpie to clearly color a link (cutter) so you'll know when you're done with one side - I start at the end and work back toward the engine. 3 - place the guide so that the file is in the gullet of the marked link - make sure the arrow points in the right direction...if it doesn't, you're using the wrong file - flip the guide. 4 - check the position of the guide, making sure it's level, and that the sharpener's guidelines are aligned with the bar, before taking your first stroke on each cutter - then take two more (or three, if the chain is badly dulled) - lift the file slightly on return strokes so that it doesn't engage. Check your angle on every stroke. 5 - move to the next-NEXT cutter (the next one pointing in the same direction) and repeat step 4 - use the same number of strokes on each link. Keep repeating until you reach the last link that you can comfortably sharpen - depending on the length of your bar and the chain pitch, you'll likely be able to sharpen 5, 6, or 7 links. 6 - release the chain brake, and holding the last link you sharpened, manually advance the chain until that link is slightly over the nose of the bar, then lock the chain-brake again. 7 - repeat steps 4-6 until you see the color-coded link - you're done with THAT side. 8 - flip the sharpener so that the other file is down, and turn it until its guidelines are once again aligned with the bar, but in the opposite direction - you will now be repeating the process used to sharpen the other links, but this time you'll be PULLING the sharpener's file through each tooth. [ALTERNATIVELY, you can remove the saw bar from the vise, turn the saw 180 degrees, and refasten it in the vice, so that you'd still be pushing the file, although in a different direction.] 9 - starting with the first cutter you DIDN'T sharpen (next to the color-coded link) repeat steps 4-7 to sharpen the rest of the cutters. The first 72-link chain I sharpened took me about 30 minutes. The second took maybe 15 minutes. Now I can sharpen 3 chains in half an hour, with time for a quick break between chains.

I first did it the wrong way and completely ruined my chain. I think put my head on straight and figured out I was pushing it the wrong way. So, after ruining the cut on an already dull blade, I was able to do it correctly and got the blade cutting great again! I've tried lots of sharpening tools in the past and always had trouble with them. I'm very happy with this one!

Buen afilador solo asegúrate de pedir el de la medida de tu cadena de motosierra

Reduces error

Easy to use, if you know how a chainsaw is sharpened you don't even need instructions. Seems to work well so far.

Acquisto effettuato circa 3 anni fà e a distanza di tutto questo tempo posso dire che l'oggetto l'ho trovato molto utile per affilare la catena della motosega senza impiegare molto tempo ma soprattutto con un risultato finale eccellente. H Dopo questo tempo affila sempre molto bene, io a regola la catena la affilo dopo circa 4 pieni di benzina oppure se accidentalmente urto contro terra o sassi. La possibilità di affilare poco e spesso con la massima efficienza e soprattutto consumando la catena fino al minimo mantenendo un rapporto tagliente/limitatore sempre perfetto. Certo occorre prenderci la mano e cercare di affilare ogni dente uniformemente agli altri, consiglio di partire da quello più consumato, segnarlo con un pennarello scuro e da lì iniziare ad effettuare l'affilatura. Mi ritengo soddisfatto dell'acquisto. Ne ho acquistato anche un altro sempre qui su Amazon, per una catena con dente da 4,8mm, ma di una marca meno conosciuta e devo dire che ambedue hanno soddisfatto le mie esigenze anche se quest'ultimo più con sezione maggiore la uso meno. LO CONSIGLIO

Comme sur la photo et le descriptif. Fait le taf, j'économise sur mes affutages. Parfait outil.