MINWAXAntique Oil Finish, Pint by Minwax

My wood turned bowels are perfect using this amazing oil finish.

Je suis tourneur sur bois et je cherchais un fini durable pour mes pièces, j'ai enfin trouvé merci

Es un aceite con barniz súper fácil de usar que da un acabado precioso conel que puedes controlar la intensidad. La madera queda fenomenal

I have been using Minwax Antique Oil Finish (AOF) since the late 90's or early 2000's after reading an article about it in Fine Woodworking. I have also been building furniture for over 20 years. This is the best straight out of the can finish I know of. I suspect that it is simply a blend of varnish, linseed or tung oil, and mineral spirits, but in any case, the proportions are perfect. It has a higher solids content than any Danish oil mix I've tried and because of that, it builds a finish with multiple applications. Anyone can achieve perfect results with this as it comes down to how much time you're willing to put in vs. the skill level involved with spraying or brushing on a finish.Unfortunately, it is getting harder to find. It used to be in most hardware stores. I've often wondered if the name wasn't off-putting for consumers who think this finish is for antique restoration. It's not!I have no idea what the directions on the can say to do, but here's the best way to apply it!1. Apply a liberal coat of AOF and while wet, sand the wood with the grain using 220 grit sandpaper. You can use a random orbital sander here on big surfaces. This will accomplish two things, it will allow the finish to soak into the wood and the slurry created by sanding will fill the wood pores. Carefully remove any and all slurry or finish left on the wood with a soft cloth, being careful not to pull the finish out of the pores. Sometimes wiping across the grain is best here. Allow the finish to dry for a day or two so that you don't pull out the slurry from the filled pores on subsequent applications.2. Apply second and subsequent coats using a soft cloth, wait until the finish gets slightly tacky, and then wipe off with a clean soft cloth, going with the direction of the grain when you can, but more importantly, making sure you get off all finish from the surface. It may seem wasteful and you'll certainly use up some cotton rags, but it is building a finish. The first coats are soaking in and can take hours before they get slightly tacky (sometimes they soak in so much there's not much to wipe off) while later coats will take minutes before they are tacky enough to be wiped off because it's not soaking into the wood anymore. Sometimes, you'll wait too long to wipe off and the finish will be too tacky to remove. When this happens, reapply the finish and begin wiping off before it becomes overly tacky. For a really spectacular finish, it's not unusual for me to apply 10 or more coats. Drying time between coats varies and I can usually put two coats on per day. It just needs to feel dry to the touch before the next coat.3. After satisfied with your number of coats, the finish should look shiny and and equal to any factory applied finish, but you're not done, because it can be even better! Allow the finish to dry for at least a week, two weeks is better. Use 0000 steel wool to rub out the finish. AOF is soft, unlike polyurethane, so rubbing it out is a breeze. Rub with the direction of the grain with light to moderate pressure. In corners, you'll have to rub across the grain, that's okay, the important thing is that every nook and cranny get rubbed out, otherwise there will be visible differences in the sheen. Rubbing it out will change the sheen level, it will no longer be glossy looking, but will have a satin sheen. It will feel like butter, far superior to the best professionally sprayed lacquer finish.Edit: I think it is important that I mention disposal of the many rags you will go through when applying this finish (as well as other oil-based finishes). They are truly a fire hazard and will self-combust as they are drying. Two options, either leave them unfolded on a non-flammable surface (such as a cast iron table saw) until they get fully dry and crusty, after which, they can be thrown in the trash. The second option is to put them in a sealed container, where there won't be enough fresh air to feed the fire, and throw them out.

super produit

This product is now getting harder to find yet it’s an absolute brilliant product in the hands of those who know how to apply a finish. In the hands of those who don’t even finger painting couldn’t help them produce a sound finish. I’m saying this because this product is being taken off the shelves because of lack of sales due to consumer ignorance and heavy marketing of other brands. I ask the seller to keep stocking this item please.