Bathworks Bathtub Refinishing Kit; Roll-On Kit w. Non-Slip 2 Pack Combo

I moved into my boyfriends house last year. At the time, he had only owned the home for less than a year. The entire house needed some renovations, but the bathtub was the worst for me. I tried every professional grade cleaner I could get my hands on and could just never get the yellow stain from the already cream colored tub. Eventually, I redid the entire bathroom to be black and white, and it really made the yellow tub stand out. I watched a YouTube video of a guy testing 4 different tub refinishing products and I really liked what he had to say about this one. It was easy to roll on, had lower fumes, and great durability. I ordered the double pack (which is what is needed for both the tub and the walls) and had great success. The instructions were easy to follow, and all the supplies were in there. I did see another review which stated that one of his two kits was missing items and that isnt the case. Its just that when it is sold in a case of two, one box comes with the tools in it as well as the product and the other box is just the additional product you need. Not a duplicate set of tools. We only have one bathroom so we had to time the application so that we could comfortably go about two days without a shower, but it was worth it on the end. Now I am no longer embarrassed to have company stay with us, and I love aesthetics of my entire bathroom.

Bought this to refinish an older bathtub with surround. I ordered the double kit (with two packages). Glad I did! The first kit was missing 2 items - a separate roller for the bottom of the tub and the additive to make the tub bottom non-skid. I was able to complete everything by combining the packages. I had more than 3/4 of the second kit left over (I wish I hadn't mixed it all and had saved some for patching later).We did a ton of prep (from what I read, that is key) and scrubbed 3-4 times, scraped with a razor, and used electric sanders to really sand the entire tub and surround. We also spent a lot of time mixingI made one mistake and used the same roller for the bottom of the tub (with non-skid additive) and the walls and consequently got some grit on the walls (minor and did not bother us). Other than that, it worked really well. The stuff was easy to roll and use and we were really impressed with just how great this looks! We have gotten lots of comments about the transformation from an ugly, gouged, almond tub with stains all over it from stickers from the 1970s to a bright clean shiny white tub and surround.The only downside is the SMELL!!! You should wear a respirator and have loads of open windows while doing this--I kept the fan running in that bath for a week and a half. There is still a bit of a smell left. However, it was not nearly as bad as I thought it would be.I would definitely use this product again! Obviously we don't know how well this will last as we only did this 3 weeks ago. I have high hopes!

The first photo shows how much I was able to squeeze out of the first 20 ounce paint jar. Surprisingly, the second jar had far more paint somehow and I was able to finish the walls and tub. The inconsistent paint amount is a little disconcerting.Also, I went through both foam rollers for the first half of the job. They began crumbling and covering the tiles with particles, so I had to stop using them once they got to that point. You have to press them pretty hard to get them into the grout, so the foam just disintegrates after a short time. The knap is just too shallow. You can use the rollers (the handle portion) with replacement rolls from the store. They're the standard 4 inch rolls for skinny rods. I recommend getting at least two more foam rolls and two deep texture rolls (fluffy ones).The paint is VERY thick and sticky. As I rolled the paint, it yanked out grout chunks and spread them across the smooth tile faces, making it chunky and bumpy. That was a major issue for me.The fumes are terrible. Even with a gas mask.Be sure to leave a couple ounces of reserved paint to retouch after you're done. The epoxy hardens in 3 hours and cannot be used afterwards, so make sure you've double-checked for coverage right away.Prep took me well over 5 hours. I removed a lot of old caulk (NOTE: this is apparently optional - the paint should adhere to caulk). You clean the area multiple times, scrubbing hard to remove any soap residue. Then you treat it with an etching solution for half an hour or so, and rinse thoroughly (how do you rinse the outside of the tub without making a huge mess!?). Then scratch the surface with sandpaper and rinse again. Then mask the area. If there's any caulk or caulk residue, spray over it with kilz primer. Then you apply the kit primer to the rest of the surface (a sticky oil thinly spread with a paper towel). And only then are you ready to paint.The paint takes 10 minutes after mixing the two ingredients before you can use it, so save time by mixing it before you prime the surface. Then you have 3 hours before the paint is unusable. Start with the surround (don't prime or paint the tub until you're done with the far corners of the surround, or you won't be able to reach). And do the edges and corners where the roller can't reach. Then use the rollers. Be thorough. It's hard to tell where you've missed spots or need a thicker coat. It's also hard to get into the grout cracks. Once the surround is done, prime the tub. Start painting with the non-skid mixture of paint and powder on the floor of the tub. Then do the far corners and work your way back to the front of the tub. Curing takes a day or two. Plan accordingly. Recaulk afterwards if needed, once the paint cures. The caulk usually takes an extra day to cure as well.I used a space heater and a fan to dry the tiles faster after washing them and painting them. It looks like the kit came with etching formula, so I didn't have to buy the extra container. WARNING: the etching formula WILL ruin the finish on brushed nickel fixtures. Immediately clean them if you drip onto them (the masking step is after the etching step).The instructional video says to spray any area that has caulk residue with kilz primer, so get some of that before you begin. You'll also need a razer blade scraper tool. And of course, get extra paint rolls.Overall, it's still the most affordable way for me to seal the entire wall (the grout was leaking and couldn't be fixed).

This kit was very easy to use, but I did watch a lot of youtube videos before trying it myself. One kit with one coat covered our stand alone shower perfectly (see before and after pictures inserted). I applied all over with a thick coat while making sure the roller stayed as wet as possible (as the directions stated) and rolled over the area multiple times before changing sections to smooth out and help with drippage. I wore a mask the whole time and had a fan to help ventilate the bathroom space given we do not have a window in the bathroom at all. When I took off the mask it smelled to high heaven so beware! We have not had to clean the shower yet but the instructions state to not use harsh chemicals because it can break down the sealant aspect. I plan to update this review in a year or so to touch on how it has held up, but so far so good and our shower looks much better white than creamy yellow!

Pieces of dried paint in bottles that I had to struggle to get off painted surfaces as I was putting on new coat.