SuperInk Robust Outdoor Electrical Project Box - IP66 Weatherproof PVC/ABS Enclosure for Universal Protection - Size 7 1/8" x 4 1/2 "x 4" inch(181x111x100 mm),1PK

Very tough, sturdy little project box. The plastic casing is quite strong and well-sealed. The knockouts are all sealed in tight, making punching them out a little challenging, but I was able to do it with a flathead screwdriver and working around the edge until I could swing it out to twist them out. The un-touched knockouts are solidly in place and will keep water out.While this is an electrical box, I used this to build an HF radio choke. The only issues I have is I would have liked there to have been a hook somewhere inside the box to use zip ties to strap down my toroid, and the provided screws seem to be a funny size-- my phillips head screwdriver stripped them, and I had to find a flathead with a thin enough blade to slip into the slot. Thankfully, the screws do accept both, so even the stripped ones are still useable. Great box, looking forward to using this choke for a long time.

I do believe this will be a good weatherproof box but I am a little concerned about the manufacturers decision to send this out with the screws so machined tightened into the box that you need to use a perfect tip #1 Philips Screwdriver to make certain you do not strip the screws while trying to back them out. The waterproof gasket is quite thin but it is located within a channel on the top of the box that should line up perfectly with the bottom. It that works it should be able to keep out the water. The one I received seems to be a little out of alignment. This does come with knockouts but does not include cable glands. Based on other reviews, I will drill out the holes for my cable glands and not even try to knock them out.

This is quick and easy to install. After several weeks of exposure to the elements, all of my components have stayed fully dry! The box is super sturdy. No signs of deterioration or wear at this time!

Overall, this box served its purpose. For me, it was more difficult to install than what I think it should have been, because it has some problems with the knockouts.The first issue is that the knockouts are rather difficult to remove. They have indented rings around them, which is theoretically to make the plastic thin enough to open the holes fairly easily. The ones I used were not thin enough to accomplish that goal. I suppose I could look at the positive side and say the plastic is durable (which it is), but having the ability to remove the knockouts is extremely important in being able to use the box. I placed the box on a hard surface, and used a flat-blade screwdriver with a hammer, but they were still very difficult to remove. I was eventually able to open the holes, but not without leaving rough edges. I used a utility knife (box cutter) to smooth the edges of the holes, and I had to enlarge them a little bit to be able to insert the cord connectors. I was using connectors that are sized for the holes (nominal size), but they didn't quite fit even though those connectors fit in every other box that has the same nominal hole size. Shaving away a little bit of the plastic with the utility knife allowed me to insert the connectors.Another problem was that when I inserted the connectors fully, I was not able to install the retaining nuts on the inside. The box has mounting holes with small curbs, for lack of a better term, that are directly in front of the knockout holes on the ends of the box. They protrude high enough that they interfere with the insertion and installation of the cord connectors. I think the mounting holes are spaced apart at the right distance to fit over a standard, single-gang box, but they could be designed so that they don't project up in front of the knockout holes.I had to hold the nuts in place *before* inserting the connectors, and I was able to screw the connectors into the nuts from the outside. I hope the attached photos will show what I am trying to describe. I wasn't using connectors that had anything unusual about them. They are standard weatherproof gland connectors that are made for the specific purpose of maintaining watertight connections into junction boxes.One other thing I noticed, and this is just personal preference, is that the lid does not have any type of flexible seal (like a rubber gasket, for example). It has a small groove built into it that fits over a rim around the top of the box. Given the box's weatherproof rating, I suppose the rim/groove method makes a weatherproof seal, but I would have more confidence in it if it had a gasket of some type. Again, that is just personal preference and might not be an issue with this box at all.I would probably use this brand/model again, but with the understanding that it is a bit more inconvenient that some other boxes of its type.

This SuperInk 4.9" x 3.3" x 2.3" IP66 rated outdoor junction box is nicely made. Manufacturer claims that it is made from ABS and PVC blend of materials. This should hold up well to outdoor element exposure.The knockouts will accept M20 x 1.5 mm cable glands. 1/2" cable glands will fit if you carefully use a small round file to increase the hole size by approximately 1.0mm in diameter.I mostly use these outdoor boxes for security lights/camera installations.I recommend this SuperInk 4.9" x 3.3" x 2.3" IP66 rated outdoor junction box.