Genuine E3D V6 All-Metal HotEnd 1.75mm Universal Direct Drive Metal Only (V6-175-MO)

These are the best hotends for the money. You can go out and buy a slice, triangle lab, etc and marvel at the machine work; but in the end, it's a block of aluminum that gets hot, stores heat, and dissipates it at some rate, basic differential equation. The thermal properties of filament under pressure is quite a different story, heat breaks define that, otherwise it's just an extruder pushing molten plastic through a fixed-sized hole.I've used many brands, these are as good as any other, within reason. The huge difference is that these parts are easy to get, cheap, and you don't need to wait for a boat docked off the coast. Even the knock-offs are decent if assembled correctly.I've compared this one (and many like it) with high dollar units and the only difference is a slightly higher retraction distance to achieve the same result, on average.If you want something that's dependable, inexpensive, and provides decent results, this is the one.For the reviews stating that filament leaks from the threads, that's a bit of a misnomer, the threads aren't designed to be leak proof, it's the interface between the heat break and the tip that matters. Metal expands when heated, so you have to tighten when everything is hot, otherwise you'll end up with a not-so-tight connection. And you don't need to torque it with a breaker bar, just one finger on a wrench, enough to make the two surfaces seal properly.For those with heat break clogs, that's either a cooling issue, a ridiculous retraction value, or a bad heat break. Put a suitable thermal paste on the threads that connect the heatsink (i.e. cool side), make sure the heatsink is air-gapped from the heat block, and ensure your fan is adequate.Retraction wise, I print no-string petg (4 different brands, same settings) at 250C with 0.7mm retraction on a direct drive. I get the same result with a volcano and 300mm Bowden using 3.5mm of retraction. Both using 0.4mm tips. People tend to blame the hotend and waste hundreds of dollars (been there done that), but it's usually a heat break or tip causing the issue, that's been my experience (assuming correct slicer settings).If you have everything tightened properly and the cooling looks/feels right, replace the heat break, those tend to be hit or miss. One small burr or scratch and it should go in the trash, otherwise you'll spend hours trying to fix a problem that cannot be fixed, all for piece of metal that's worth less than a quarter.If you want the best bang for the buck, stick with a simple hotend like this and spend your money on quality tips and heat breaks. That's assuming you don't have a mechanical or motion problem, those issues need to be resolved first.There's literally nothing worse than wasting time and money trying to save an overpriced hotend that you bought because someone on reddit told you it was far superior. Some are better, slightly, but that quickly gets lost in the noise the first time you have to strip one down and waste hours screwing with parts made from raw materials that literally cost pennies. This is especially true for printers that aren't designed for maintenance.

Make sure to properly tighten the nozzle and heatbreak together before installing, otherwise it fits perfectly and prints great.

e3d v6, supposed to be the thing by which everything else is measured as far as all metal hotend but I have not had good luck with them. The one previous to this just kind of fell apart, had to be replaced, was just worn out after couple years. Wouldn't stay tight anymore and heat sink kept coming loose.

The first E3DV6 I got to put on my Mega I3, and it has been working great. I bought this one to have as a spare if I get a clog or something that I don't have the immediate time to clear. Quick swap and clog clear when I have time.Great all metal hotend. All I had to do originally is print a spacer for mounting and it works just like the V5 that was originally on the I3.

After having a very stuck nozzle, I bent my heatbreak and damaged the heaterblock. I ordered this to replace those parts. My heatsink was fine so I did not replace it. When I was ordering this I couldn't tell from the pictures if it truly was the exact same heaterblock as the mk3s but it was. I chose to buy this kit because it was the cheapest and fastest way to get both the things I needed to get my printer back up and running.

after spending months troubleshooting several e3d extruders with clogging, jamming, feeeding issues, adjusting temp settings messing with feedrates etc I was told to throw away the cheap Chinese knock offs and purchase a genuine part. Got this one installed and like magic all problems gone. Been using for over a week with no issues. They should ban Chinese knock offs what a waste of time and money.. I must have wasted over 50 hours in troubleshooting a non issue because of part tolerances and material properties.

I can't say whether or not this is a genuine E3D hotend, but it works as it should.

I was using a clone version of these on my DIY 3D printer. I kept having to restart my prints due to the blockages. I tried cleaning the nozzle but that did not resolve it. After replacing with the original, have not had a blockage since! My printer prints flawlessly and I am glad I spent the money to invest in the original product! Well worth it!

Got precicely what I paid for and at a time when this was a bit difficult to source without getting gouged by other stores.