Motive Products0105 Early Model American Power Bleeder 2-Quart Tank with Hose and Adapter

This either deserves a 1 star or 5 stars. One Star because the package received was missing 2 of 4 parts. The product photos show the tank with an attached air tube, reservoir seal plate with tube attached, a package with chains and J-hooks and an extra length of clear tubing. Missing from my order were the chains and J hooks and the extra length of tubing. I definitely didn't get my money's worth. If I didn't have such an immediate need for this product I should have returned it for a complete orderFive stars because based on other users reports I purchased an eight inch c-clamp to use on my 1996 Chevy Silverado equipped with the original equipment 2 chamber plastic reservoir and it worked flawlessly using the dry method. I also installed quick connects between the air tank air tube and the flat plate. Applying firm but not excessive pressure with the c-clamp on the flat plate with rubber gasket I was able to fill the air tank with 25 psi air pressure to bleed rear brake lines that were nearly completely devoid of brake fluid (blown rear wheel cylinder) effortlessly.Product recommended provided user also purchases or supplies the right sized c-clamp for their application.Amended: 03/21/2023 First use was replacing rear brake shoes and wheel cylinders. Second day I flushed old brake fluid and bled front brake calipers. New problems arose with the Motive Power Bleeder. First after pumping like crazy I was barely able to reach 20 psi. Secondly the gage stuck - you'd have to tap the side of the gage to get the needle to move while adding or reducing air pressure.I ended up installing a Vaincre TR416 Metal Valve Stem (available here on Amazon) so I could simply add air using my air compressor and replacing the defective pressure gage, also bought from Amazon. It's an 1/8 NPT Back Mount. Unscrew the old gage from the already installed adapter and screw in the new gage. Rating reduced from 5 to 3 stars for new problems in addition to already missing parts. New photos attached.

As a preface, I ADORE my Motive bleeder system and have THREE other adapters for Ford, Euros, and Honda that I love. The top plate for the is excellent but the chain and j-hooks are absolute garbage, I fought with them for over an hour before I finally gave up and called my wife out to do a two-person bleed.I had it perfectly centered, both surfaces cleaned, made sure one hole was over each reservoir chamber, wetted the sealing surface with brake fluid, slowly clamped it down evenly, but it would overfill the reservoir and blow out from multiple places at only 5-10psi. Tried all sorts of configurations with the j-hooks and chains and I just could not get it to work.My suggestion to Motive is to use a chain with smaller, tighter links that allow just enough room for the j-hook to fit through, but enough mobility to allow you to tighten the wing nuts without it binding and catching on the chain.Vehicle was a 1976 Ford F150, dual chamber reservoir, discs in front and drums in rear. After reading comments, I'll try the C Clamp method, again I think the plate itself will work great.

Everything is pretty decent about the bleeder and this adapter. I did have to spend about an hour modifying the thing so it fit snugly and didn't leak on my 1967 Chevy C10 pickup, mainly because the bolts that hold the master cylinder protrude a little to much and kept the thing from getting a good seal... I thought I could just relieve the plate on the adapter, but I ended up having the cut the extra protrusion of the master cylinder mounting bolts to get a good seal... But now it's done, and next time I flush my brake fluid it'll be quick and easy...I do wish they would come up with a better clamping device than the fairly large chain that attached to the adjustable hooks... Those chains are always a problem... I would like to see Motive come up with a quick adjust cable that you just cinch up and then tighten the wing nuts, and release with a quick release... The chain frequently is a pain to route so that it doesn't hang up on all the stuff under the master cylinder... And when the thing isn't perfectly sealed if the tank isn't empty it just pumps brake fluid out of the master cylinder, which is not great... I use the same brake fluid in all my cars, so when I am doing one that requires the clamps I empty the bleeder back into the brake fluid can so that I can pump it up and make sure it's sealed before I release the lid/plunger and put the brake fluid back in...

Motive Products 105 - what an amazing tool! I had trapped air in my brake system (1989 Jeep YJ). It is the tool that finally worked after 8 months of trying everything. I used c-clamps with the master cylinder plate adapter as others have suggested since it provided excellent clamping force that the hooks and chains might not have achieved. Also, the brass fittings might leak a little after tightening; we did not use a sealer. My spouse - she just maintained the pressure by pumping the unit while I bled the brakes. Upon the first try, I used a Mityvac on the bleeders in combination with the Motive Products unit but I kept seeing bubbles, so, I ceased using it in combination. After that, the Motive Products slowly got rid of the bubbles in the rear. When I got to the front brakes there were very few bubbles remaining in the system. After I bled the front, I rechecked the rear and front brakes. At that time, the flow out of the bleeders was finally voluminous, solid, constant, and bubble free - what an incredible relief!Here's what I bought and the methods that did not work:•3 new master cylinders (thought they were 'bad-out-of-the-box')•1 new brake booster (needed a replacement since my original unit was leaking air)•18 large bottles of brake fluid; would have only needed 2 if I had initially purchased Motive Products 105•replaced all brake lines with new copper nickel lines•installed new front callipers, new flex hoses, 4 new copper washers, and 2 new banjo bolts•had a mechanic install one of the master cylinders and the brake booster (servo) - he couldn't get the air out; brakes worked but pedal was extremely low due to trapped air•had a different mechanic pressure bleed the brakes - obviously, they used air only not fluid; brakes worked but the pedal was extremely low due to trapped air•bled and rebled the master cylinder; the rebleed with a Mityvac eliminated the few remaining bubbles in the master cylinder but still, the pedal went to the floor•tried speed bleeders; the brake fluid eventually dissolved the special thread coating•tried a pneumatic brake bleeder - didn't work - endless bubbles kept appearing•tried a Mityvac - didn't work - endless bubbles kept appearing•used an expensive hydraulic thread sealer on the bleeders - didn't stop the bubbles

The plate itself is very good, but the rigging is beyond cheap. The rigging made the tool clumsy and much harder to set up. Another example of going way too cheap where it counts and making an otherwise useful product into a marginally useful tool.

Had to C-clamp the unit on the master cylinder as mentioned. Be sure to pre-pressure dry if new brake system. Leave pressurized for hours to check for leaks. It usually only loses a few pounds over an hour if all good. Be prepared for brake fluid spillage when taking plate off master cylinder when complete due to the angle of the master cylinder. I used tin foil and rags. Pressure held well. Good product.

Use the c clamps as other users mentioned I used 4 and in the beginning you have to pump the crap out of it to build pressure but then it's amazing best pedal I ever er had on my early c3

The Motiv Products power bleeders and accessories are tools I'll be able to keep in my toolbox for years. Good solid stuff, not junk..!!