🔧 Elevate Your Electrical Game!
The Electronics-Salon DIN Rail Mount Distribution Module is a high-performance terminal block designed for professional applications. With 20 positions rated at 30A and 300V, it accommodates a wide range of wire sizes and is built from premium fireproof materials, ensuring safety and reliability in any electrical setup.
N**E
Interesting device w/ options for reworking/cutting, adding additional internal circuits!
This looks like a decent product with very interesting modification possibilities, but I have not burned it in yet!I purchase two, the 30Amp 20 pin version and the 24Amp 30 pin version. I plan to put them both on a single 12 inch DIN rail and have 30 24Amp connectors and 15 30Amp connectors after cutting the 30Amp connector down a bit. I have attached some photos so that you can see other aspects of its construction. Both versions have similar construction. I needed the 30 Amp version for only a few connection, but do not have space for all 20 connectors so I wanted to see if I could cut it down. It looks easy to do. The end cap comes off with two screws. The housing is a extruded plastic but seems to be strong enough. So it can easily be cut. the electrical connectors are simply soldered to a circuit board which has a thick layer of solder connecting the adjacent connector and then the board is slid into slots in the extruded housing. Hence, the unit is hollow. It is not clear to me that the solder, nor the copper, of the circuit board under the solder is really going to hole up to 30Amp, but the metal clamps seem to be pretty good.For the cases where there is higher amperage I may solder additional copper bars across the terminals or even simply add at thicker solder layer. My guess is the metal rods from the screw connectors will carry the current this short distance, but there is effectively no way to dissipate heat other than via the wires themselves. One of the advantages of this design is that one can actually build other connections or even a simple circuits inside the housing. In my case, for the low current connections I need some diodes connecting the various positions so I can just solder them inside and not have to add a small circuit board externally! Also, for some of the circuit runs need to be tied together at the terminal, as a common, so I could do this internally rather than trying to push 3 or 4 wires into one screw terminal hole. The biggest problem with doing this will be that the circuits are hidden so documentation is important! Maybe draw the circuit on the face of the device. On the other hand there is a small space between the screws running the length of the device. If one drills a small hole straight down between a pair of screws he hits the solder connection in the circuit board. Hence one could solder in the shorts, diodes, etc. at this point and they would be visible and yet be protected by the screw housings! You can see this space in the photo showing the screw heads.The electrical clamps themselves are two pieces of, serrated surfaces, metal pieces with the upper one fixed and feeding down into the circuit board and the other pulls up by the screw mechanism to clamp against the upper one. (These are not simply a screw pushing down on the wire into a curved surface like some of the cheaper devices are made.) Hence, they should be much stronger, and in point of fact maybe able to hold more than one wire, even solid wire. They can certainly hold a ferrule, but because of the way most ferrules have insulating shoulders on them you may not be able to put more than one ferrule into the hole. There is a sharp plastic edge at the top of the hole that protrudes down below the metal clamp surface. My guess is that this is designed to bite into the wire insulation to help secure the wire from pulling out. However, with larger wires one may have to force the clamping screw hard to ensure the wire is properly connected.There is a name molded into the end plate "DINKLE"Over all it looks like a pretty useful screw connector. One caveat might be that if it gets hot the extruded plastic housing might soften?! However, everything important except for the DIN clamp is built onto the circuit board.
S**K
Worked for me
I disassembled this terminal block and cut the block and rail connector separately and then re-assembled to make it all shorter. I also bought a din rail to attach it all with. For my needs I would have liked to have found one to hold the larger wires also, but this worked.
L**G
Very nice when you need 20 terminations
This is an excellent product when you need to tie down 20 connections at a time. Easily put on the rail, easily connects to cables, and easily read terminal numbers. I will be buying more of these.
C**S
It's a good one.
Sturdy construction. Firm grip to DIN. Good labeling. Does what it was designed to do.
S**.
Would order again.
Worked as advertised.
A**R
Easy connections
Great product
A**R
Works as expected.
Quality was as expected. Functions as expected. Needed to build a low-voltage junction box and these were just the thing for the job.
H**T
Great buy for the price!!
This worked perfect for my husbands project!
Trustpilot
1 day ago
1 month ago