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El equipo llego usado y con una perilla Dañada, logre repararla, sin embargo no logro quitar la mira de mi CZ shadow 2

Chinamüll!

First off, I am not a gunsmith or armorer, so I have limited experience. However, consensus on the inter-webs is that M&P sights are notoriously difficult to remove and replace. I wanted to put night sights on a couple M&P pistols (9L 2.0 and Shield Plus) and to be able to refine their alignment if needed. Bottom line: This tool worked, and did not damage either the new sights or the old ones, which were removed. Rear sight took an uncomfortable amount of force to turn wheel, and resulted in a slightly tender thumb. However, for the price, versatility, and result, I would not hesitate to buy again. Seems sturdy based on heft, but I have not, and will not, use this extensively. M&P 2.0 9L At first, I borrowed a friend's tool (not this tool). It worked for the rear sight, but would not work on the front sight of my M&P 9L 2.0 (5" barrel) because of the geometry of the slide and lack of a notch below the pushing block. Next, I used a brass punch and hammer to get the front sight out and new sight roughly in place. However, as you might expect, smashing something with a hammer lacked finesse and I was having trouble fine tuning the alignment of the new sight at home figured I would not have much luck at the range if I needed to do further adjustment. That's when I decided to give this tool a shot. Because the W Wiregear has that notch/cut-out below the pusher block, it worked perfectly to hold the long slide and nudge the front sight into alignment. M&P Shield Plus Next, I moved onto the Shield Plus. The front sight was relatively easy to remove and replace using the 90 degree side of the block. To hold the slide, there are 4 individual contact points that you screw down. I like that the tool has a series of lines etched in the surface that holds the slide. These lines allow you to make sure the slide is properly aligned (i.e. perpendicular to the pushing block), so you're applying force straight through the dovetail and not at an angle. However, I may have preferred the two-clamping-bar-style (like vise jaws) of my friend's tool in that (1) it did not require fiddling to get the slide aligned, and (2) did not create a pressure point on the thin material at ejection port. With the Shield, one of the pads/feet screwed down onto that thin section of the ejection port, when pushing the rear sight. I made it finger tight and did not try to really torque it down to reduce risk of future issues. Everything seems fine so far, but time will tell whether that area has been damaged or fatigued, and others may not be so lucky (e.g., because they use their ape strength and apply more force than I did). I reversed the pusher block to use the 45-ish degree side for the rear sight. The rear sight on the shield was DIFFICULT. The pusher block has large pushing surfaces, so there was no damage to the sights despite applying a lot of force. I found myself wishing for (1) a good surface to hold the tool while I cranked the wheel (I'd probably try putting the tool in a vise if I were doing it again), and (2) a larger wheel (or a nut that I could throw a wrench on to get more mechanical advantage). It worked, but my thumb was sore afterward from pushing so hard on the wheel's spindle.

It worked just like I needed it too, all be it my def system is the easiest test subject being a g19, with other contoured slides, your milage may vary. But it was reletively easy to use, it was secure, it did not damage any parts...but I did use a cushion for the locking blocks, I cut up a beer box...no lie...it worked great. No complaints of any kind other than...and here's the caveat for mentioned...I wish there were more markings on the actual push block for accurate measurements in small increments, I had to do quite a bit of eye balling and had to readjust a time or two on range day...a bit more adjusting than I thought was needed when sighting in, this would have been minimized if I could have correlated the tool's measurement markings with a center point; that I mark on the slide, and sight itself, then using a flat edge to line them up, taking into account the center line of the bore diameter of course, then this would have given me the best chance at nailing it the first or second time around and improvements that could put this product in the forefront of the market, after all it is a good tool, but it could be great. Having said all that, from the example that I tested I would say that I will recomend this to close friends and would definately buy again although I dont believe I will ever need too, it feels pretty solid. Best of luck. Take care. Peace to all.

I bought this during the Prime Days Sale. My only complaint is that one of the hold down nuts wobbled terribly on the support post. Upon examining it I noticed that the hole for the nut was drilled and threaded on an angle, in relation to the bearing surface of the nut, causing the nut to wobble 1/8' to 3/16", and applying uneven pressure to the top plate. I wrote to Amazon, and the manufacturer about this issue and requested a replacement nut. I haven't heard anything back from either of them, so I took the nut and mounted it on a mandrel in my lathe, and turned the bearing surface perpendicular to the bore of the nut. It's shorter now, but doesn't wobble , and applies even pressure to the top plate of the tool. That's just poor QC to let something that obvious to be shipped out for sale. A blind man could have seen the wobble in the nut. However, the price was about a third of others for sale at the time, and I think it will work just fine now.