RK1-720A

OEM rebuild/repair kit. Cost a little more than some alternatives that may work fine but I have only one valve at my home for my irrigation system that worked great for decades. When it failed, I opted to go with factory. The rebuild was quick and easy and it has been working like new again.

Well made and EXACTLY what we needed for a DYI - fix on our hot tub (our brand isn't made any longer). My husband reached out to the company and was immediately helped to identify and order exactly what we needed. It arrived quickly and well wrapped - and the company invited us to contact them with any questions while installing. We save a BUNDLE ordering and DYI (Thank you YouTube). We'd recommend this product and probably any products from this company BECAUSE of their EXCELLENT Customer Service.

Pricey but fixed my problem. Fit like it should and got me up and running again.

Exact replacement.

All I really needed was the white plastic doughnut shaped piece and the o-ring. It was easier to just buy this kit than go to home dippy and try to buy just a couple parts. I used all the parts anyway because I'll probably forget where I put them years from now if I ever need them. I think it's overpriced for what you get, but obviously way cheaper than paying someone to do it. The rebuild is really easy just be careful when prying out the old o-ring. If you gouge the brass housing, the o-ring will never seat correctly and it will leak.

very complete kit

My valve started leaking a year ago and I assumed I would have to replace the entire installation. I ended up finding this repair kit on Amazon almost by mistake while searching for the model number of my backflow preventer (Wilkins 720-A).Lots of good tips in these comments about installation and I'll try and capture them here for anyone reading this:1. I did not use the lubricating jelly at all... I have no idea what it was suppose to go on, but my valve works fine so that's good.2. After you take your plastic cap off, you might do what I did and stare at the valve and think: "This looks like a solid brass housing... how the hell do I get IN there?" - the brass top you are staring with the 3 screw pillars that the plastic top sits on... actually UNSCREWS out of the top of the valve housing. A super easy way to do it (that I got from these comments) is to take the screw driver you just used to remove those 3 top screws, law it sideways/between/across 2 of the pillars and use that leverage to unscrew that top. It comes right out.3. The O-ring you need to replace is potentially smashed down into the channel around the inner lip of the brass housing right after you remove the top from Step #2... if you just removed the top, look around the inner lip of that brass housing, right under the threaded outside rim... you'll see it. You might need to dig it out with a little metal pick or something - mine was smashed into place and I had to dig at it before I tore part of it out then I could pull the rest out easy.4. The spring was the only thing that gave me pause for a minute. It goes down into the valve, small/tapered side first and the big/open side actually pops down inside the top lip of the housing. To get it out, you basically need to contract the open end a bit so it clears that top lip then you can pull it out. I found the end of the sprint under the top lip, used a screw driver to sort of pop it out from under that lip and start to drag it out the top of the housing and as soon as I got a few inches of it past that little lip, POP, the rest of it came right out, no problem. Putting the new one in was basically... "just smash it all down through the hole past that lip and once it was in there, use the screw driver to straight out any coil overlap so the spring sat naturally".Hope that helps!

My pressure breaker valve started to leak & I remembered there was a rebuild kit available for it. Checking various sites including the local Sprinkler World led me to Amazon because they had the lowest price.The kit comes with a sheet of paper for installation / maintenance / testing of the valve, but not for the rebuild kit. It did however provide an exploded view of all the parts that make up the valve and with the exception of the canopy & screws everything was included in the rebuild kit.Here's a summary of the steps I took:1) Shut power off to the valve (if you haven't done this already)2) remove the 3 screws from the canopy and set aside3) remove the canopy4) unscrew the brass bonnet (should only need your fingers but if its stubborn, channel locks will help to persuade it)5) remove the Disc & Poppet Assembly (all one piece)6) remove the washer7) The O-Ring sits in a channel. I used an X-ACTO knife to pry the old O-Ring off8) Remove the Spring (the O-Ring Seat prevents it from coming up so I had to compress and turn it to free it)9) Remove the Spider Assembly10) Use a cloth to wick up any water and inspect the valve for any damageNow it's time to install the parts from the rebuild kit:1) Install the Spider Valve2) Install the Spring (I had to turn and compress it at the large end to get it to fully seat under the O-ring channel)3) Cut the O-Ring lubricant and squeeze it out completely onto your fingers and rub the O-ring all over it being very liberal with the grease4) Install the O-Ring into it's channel5) Insert the Dis & Poppet Assembly6) I had extra grease so I lubed the underside of the big plastic washer that sits on the O-Ring7) Install the plastic washer (greasy side on top of the O-Ring)8) Thread the bonnet and make sure the shaft of the disc & poppet assembly is in the center of the bonnet9) Hand tighten the bonnet10) Install the Canopy and the 3 screws. Tighten all 3 once all are in placeTurn the water back on. It's okay for a little water to ooze out of the breaker valve initially, wipe it from the surrounding pipes and monitor the valve. In my case I ran a 5-minute cycle of one of the sprinkler lines making sure the valve did not leak.The whole procedure can be done in 15-20 minutes (if that)