Taco USA: How Mexican Food Conquered America
S**A
Interesting read on Mexican food history; NOT a cookbook or exhaustive treatise on the subject
I struggle with this review because there are some really great things in here. Arellano does a good job describing the historical roots of Mexican food in the US. However, it's not an exhaustive treatise on the subject. If you want that, stick with Kennedy. This is the story of how certain types of food became popular in certain parts of the country at specific time periods. It's informative and entertaining. It's definitely worth a read if you're interested in these subjects, but it's not like Kennedy's books that go in depth on flavors, ingredients, etc. It's a lot like a collection of essays on tacos, tamales, etc in the US, and that's not a bad thing as long as you know what to expect. I suggest reading an excerpt or sample, and only buying if his style appeals to you (or if you're familiar with his column). Reviewers who were expecting a cookbook would have done well to take this step.I liked it, and I learned a lot. However, I struggled for a few reasons. Mainly, the author definitely has a chip on his shoulder, and it comes out in the writing in inconsistent ways. I totally agree with his take on what is "authentic;" essentially, he's saying if it's inspired by Mexican food, it's Mexican food (so yeah, Taco Bell counts, and I think that's fine). I don't embrace the so-called purists, like Kennedy; cuisines evolve and cultures adapt them. Mexican food took on a lot of influence from the Spanish and Lebanese; this doesn't make Mexican food Spanish or Lebanese. I like the mindset. However, there is a simmering resentment of the cuisine being anglicized that comes through quite often, so the message is conflicted. 'Everything Mexican-inspired is Mexican, but anglos have bastardized it all, but that's okay because that's what they do and now it's famous' is the confusing message I got from the book.There's definitely a California-centric angle to the book. As a New Mexican, we have a different idea of the histories of many of these dishes, and my native Tusconan husband took issue with several claims the author makes as well. There's probably no definitive answer, but a little more research may have balanced the book more. Additionally, some of the restaurant choices were odd if you live in the areas discussed. Chicos Tacos in El Paso is generally reserved for drunk people at bar closing time. La Posta de Mesilla isn't even mentioned. El Charro in Tuscon is basically ignored, but El Guero Canelo is discussed in depth. Not bad choices, but the choices of someone not from the area who didn't seem to do much more than cursory research.I liked this book. It's got a lot of neat trivia, and it's funny, even with the undercurrent of contempt. The chapter on Oaxacan food and people was very informative (and my favorite; in fact, I'm going to seek out more reading about their struggles). Just be sure to take the book for what it is....informative entertainment.
R**V
Great Read and a Must Have for any Mexican food afficianado!
This book is a must in every home library for those of us that remember Mama's hand made tortillas and the funny looks we got when we brought out lunches in large grocery bags all rolled up.I was very interested in the assimilation stories of Mexican and Tex-Mex food into the white homes and what they considered to be Hispanic food. I still have friends today who feel that "Taco Bell" is Mexican food, and have never ventured into Santa Ana, CA for the real delights held in places like Sarinanas Tamale Factory.It was one of the most thorough accounting of the Ray Kroc school of graduates that I have ever run across, that included Glen Bell and others.While I was surprised not to see the Pup N' Taco franchise noted, this was one of my first experiences with Americanized Mexican food, I was happy to see Del Taco and Naugles listed as I remember the Bun Taco at the Corona, CA franchise when I was a kid in the 70'sOverall a Great historical epicurean telling of the Latin food movement and definitely a well written accounting through the genius that is Gustavo Arellano.
T**Y
Tortillas in a can
This is an interesting book on the history of Mexican food, Tacos, burritos Tex-mex and most importantly the history of Tequila. It covers how places like Taco Bell, Chi Chi, Taco johns, Del Taco and others came about. The description of some of the food at the time that they had to make do with for the closes thing for Mexican food was pretty sad. Did you know there are or were can tortillas ? How disgusting. There is a chapter on real chocolate and Mexican hot coco which I can not wait to try.It is interesting to see how food is different depending on the region like when they are talking about green chili. I grew up in Southern New Mexico so I am very familiar with Hatch green chili and the way it is served in New Mexico. It talks about the San Luis Valley in Southern Colorado and for that matter in most of Colorado. I live in Pueblo and Pueblo is well known for its green chili also and it is a running competition on which towns green chili is the best, In Colorado the green chili is more like a stew or a gravy but it sure is good. There are parts of the book that in my opinion plod along but all in all this is a pretty good read and informative.
K**R
Taco USA, a taste of heaven!
I don't understand why some gave bad reviews to this thoroughly engrossing book. I love Mexican food like so many others and found the detail and range of topics very interesting and informative. You can appreciate the menu more when you understand it's history. Arellano is an entertaining and funny writer. His Ask a Mexican book and columns are outrageously politically incorrect (God bless him) and he is as fearless here but this is no polemic. This is like a great Menudo, a savory blend of several cultures and regions to produce a bit of culinary heaven. I especially liked the stories of the rise of Tamales, Tacos, Burritos, La Victoria, Taco Bell, Pace, Tapatio and so much more we encounter every day. I highly recommend this book to anyone that has a real interest not just in recipies but how they came about. Well done Gustavo!
M**O
insightful and fun . . . but you'll get hungry
Mr Arellano writes with verve and thoughtfulness, always bringing fresh perspectives and tying together disparate anecdotes and historical references into a coherent and compelling theme.Read it.Learn something.Have fun.Get hungry.
C**S
Give Me Tacos, Or Give Me Death
If you ever wanted the full story on the greatest culinary achievement in the history of mankind, this is the book. Arellano serves up delicious anecdotes while making a convincing argument that a life without tacos is simply not worth living.
E**S
Now I need more tacos
The pillars, the icons, the history, it's all in the book. When it comes to Mexican food, what else do I need?
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