TRQ Front Driver and Passenger Side CV Axle Assembly Set 2 Piece Compatible with 1997 Honda CR-V 1998-2001 CR-V Automatic Transmission

I was very satisfied with this dual front CV axle. The quality felt solid and well made, and it fit perfectly with no issues during installation. After installation, the vehicle drove smoothly with no vibrations or noise, even during turns. It completely restored proper handling and eliminated the clicking and shaking I was experiencing. Unfortunately, snowy weather later destroyed my car, but up until that point, the CV axle worked great and performed exactly as expected—especially compared to the price my dealership wanted. Overall, it was a reliable replacement and an excellent value for the cost.

My dad's a machinist and I grew up in his shop. I've worked in fabrication, assembly, and quality control. I've personally replaced a handful of CV joint sets on various vehicles over the years, and always with automotive store bought parts. Auto parts store products carried a premium, but the quality was reliable. This was my first attempt purchasing from this company (without the middle man) and I thought it risky. My fears turned out to be unfounded. The axle assemblies are machined well and I can tell quality manufacturing and talented assembly went into the finished product. The type of steel and heat treating is correct, the splines are tight tolerance with no wiggle. The spider gear doesn't drag and it's nice and tight; same with the races & housing on the other end. The boots are surprisingly thick and a good grade of rubber. The clamping straps were even applied with care. I'm impressed, and I'm not impressed often. The ONLY criticism I could come up with is that the tool marks weren't polished off all of the steel, but that's cosmetic and would only matter on a show car, maybe not even then. It's obvious from the way these axles feel that care was taken to ensure a high quality product was shipped out. The boot clamp tabs were even neatly folded over. The entire axle was lightly oiled and placed in a thick mil plastic bag, then supported with foam braces, and placed in double thick cardboard boxes. There were instructions included, which would help a novice. The only thing better about my OEM axles is that they have rubber vibration dampers on the shaft, which the replacements don't have; I doubt I'd be able to notice the difference though. The car drives like butter compared to original axles. For the price, I think I got a bargain with this quality. I'm not sure what to do with my cores... Parts shops used to want them in exchange...

Well packaged. Perfect fit. Easy install took about 15 minutes. Make it easy 1, turn the steering wheel right before jacking up the car. Make it easy 2, the axle nut is 36mm get a chrome 6 point socket. The impact socket won't fit into the hub. The rental tool sockets don't fit. I bought an impact socket and learned so I ran my grinder around the bottom inch or so you won't need to remove much maybe 2mm worked fine. Make it easy 3, check the axle nut there are 2 types the thin collared one that gets bent with a punch needs a torque wrench that goes to 244ftlbs. The other nut torques to 37ftlbs first pass then another 60° second pass. Make it easy 4, crawl under and look at the spot where the axle enters the transmission so you know what a fully seated axle looks like then put a tray under it in cast some fluid leaks out Un clip the brake and ABS lines. Remove the 2 bolts in the bottom of the strut. The bolt is knurled so put the socket on the nut. Back the nut off to the end of the bolt to protect the threads and tap the bolt out the other side. Push the axle through and swing the knuckle assembly to the side and hang it with a wire to protect the hose and ABS. Pop the axle out with a pry bar "NOT LEVERAGED AGAINST THE TRANSMISSION HOUSING" pull the axle out and slide the new one in. Face the split ring gap on transmission side with the gap up. Give it a tap with a rubber mallet or a hammer and a block of wood. Look underneath to be sure it's seated. Put everything back where you found it. Lower strut bolts torque to 82ftlbs. Lug nuts with factory wheels 100ftlbs. Have fun

They ran well for one year until a friend of mine got stuck in the mud. While I was pulling him out, I heard a clunk in the front. After pulling the axles, I found out that one broke and spun. I will not buy this brand again. Beware they are not made in the USA and are cheap China junk. I learned the lesson again that you got what you paid for.

I find these axles very close to OEM quality and I have no hesitation recommending them. Notes: Many reviewers state that passenger side is the bugaboo of the two to remove/install, probably because of the large, center C-ring retainer squeeze together out, squeeze together in maneuver. If up on jack stands, use long-jawed (good condition) needle nose pliers to reach in and grip its ears, and it's not that hard. On a lift reaching it with other plier types is possible. It's also the easier of the two sides to remove from the differential and re-insert. It doesn't have the driver side's tricky spline groove alignment or inner circle ring resistance, so it really just slides out, slides in, and is supported by its center bearing housing. Driver's side is often a stubborn pry-out. Don't fool around with slotted screwdrivers and makeshift shim leverage cobbles unless you like to go looking for trouble. Plan ahead. If you don't own or can't rent (deceasing labor cost savings) /borrow a specialized CV axle puller attachment for use with a slide hammer (I don't), use two pry bars at approx. 3&9 and be patient, slowly applying enough force to overcome its inner retainer ring. Another method that requires more prep labor and two people, is to remove manifold air box and driver's CV axle shield for top access. One person can then use the longest pry bar from above, while the other person levers from underneath with next largest sized pry bar to free its shaft. If someone is willing to assist, this is the second best way to do this step after slide hammer/puller attachment method. Be extra careful not to drag out/push-in axle ends at an angle to avoid tearing differential seals. Inserting a new driver's side axle isn't as easy as passenger side. I hung its outer axle end from strut spring with a couple bungee cords to keep it fairly straight and its weight suspended so that I could use both hands to guide/insert its splined shaft into differential and ring retainer seat. Lube its end with some transmission fluid, insert and jiggle it until it feels like its grooved spline is starting in correctly. Work it in the rest of the way using firm, as even as possible, press-pushes on its inner solid joint housing, never from mid-shaft. Resist the temptation to bang it in with a hammer and punch on joint housing or innermost debris deflector ring closest to differential (It's a press fit piece that can come off if hammered). Driver's side CV axle replacement process is easier said than done (especially if working alone, and/or w/o a puller tool), but I've done it successfully avoiding above mentioned pitfalls, and I'm an amateur. If this is your first time doing CV axle replacement, take your time, if using jack stands, use long-jawed needle nose pliers to reach in and compress the passenger side's big C-ring retainer, use pry bars for driver's side axle removal (if w/o puller tools), and don't get driver's side crosswise and start trying to force it -coming out, or going back in.

The cv axles themselves were top notch. Good quality, once installed they fit perfect. The only issue I had was the circle clips that were on the spline side of the axle. For whatever reason they made it impossible to seat the splines properly. I ended up having to remove the cirlce clip from the old axles and place them on the new ones. After that they snapped right into place as they should have.

Update: there was nothing wrong with the TRQ CV axle that had been installed. Had a Toyota CV axle installed and still have the same sounds. Get your problem professionally diagnosed before spending your time and money. Here are facts for your consideration. I had my passenger side replaced first because the boot was torn. That CV Axle assembly seems to be doing fine so far. Then I spent $380 to have the driver side CV axle replaced because there was clicking when I turned right. Now the clicking is not as bad but still there. So I wasted 380 dollars having a defective part installed. Local mechanic said he's never seen so many after market part failures as he sees now. I'm going to buy a Toyota CV axle now. I suggest you do this from the start.

If you know how to put it on you shouldn't have a problem with this product. Haven't had any issues with it after several months installed.

Semble de bonne qualité et instruction facile reste à voir la durée de vie 🤞👍

Good quality and fit perfectly on forester SJ 2015

كشكل ومضمون يبدو ان خامته وجودته ممتازه لكن للاسف لا يوافق سيارة ميركوري ميلان مديل2010 محرك6سرندل واتمنى التوضيح او تغير او حذفه من موقعه بانه موافق سيارة ميركوري ميلان مديل 2010 سعة المحرك6سرندل (انتظرت كثيرآ وبالتالي لا يوافق مركبتي وهذا في غاية السوء) وزاد السؤ سوء الى الان لم يتم اسنرداد مبلغي المالي