V2323-A1S Motorized Zone Valve, 2-way, 3/4" Threaded NPT, Normally Closed, 24 VAC with End Switch

I replaced two White Rodgers zone valves on my system with these Valemo valves. I must say I'm very impressed so far. First of all, for the cost of 1 of the other valves, I can buy 4 of these. The installation was simple (once i figured it out), and they are very quiet. The old valves rattled like a marble in a coffee can. I can't hear these operate at all. In my original review I only rated at 4 stars due to the installation instructions being very vague and there was no literature at all for wiring. Time will tell if they're reliable. If I have any issues, i'll be sure to update this review. Installation instructions - Disassemble before sweating or you'll melt the o-rings. Slide the small tab on the end of the valve to unlock the latch and slide the head off the brass body. Remove the hex head cap off the bottom of the brass body and set aside. Remove the small C-clip from the shaft protruding from the top of the brass body. Remove the shaft and the rubber "gate" from the valve body. Sweat the body to your copper piping. Allow to cool completely before reassembling. Wiring- The black wires operate the motor in the valve. One black wire attaches to one line of your 24 vac power supply (transformer). The other attaches to the return line from your thermostat. The second line from the transformer ties into the supply line to your thermostat. The 2 red wires are connected to a switch that closes when the valve opens completely. These would normally connect to your boiler to signal the burner to fire up and the pump to kick on.1st UPDATE - The valves have been through 2 winter seasons and are as wonderful now as they were at installation. Not a single problem. HIGHLY RECOMMENDED.2nd UPDATE - Purchased and installed in fall 2015. Worked great through '15, '16, and '17 winters. In 2018 one of the two valves would not open completely. In turn, would not trip the switch to fire up the burner and start the pump. No heat. :( I discovered the valve making a squealing noise when it opened, as if a bushing or bearing had worn out. A couple squirts with some WD40 and I'm back in business. I bought a spare to keep on hand in case it fails completely. Still costs less than the White Rogers valves even if I have to replace every 4 years. Still recommended. Ended up replacing the head from the spare i had on hand.3rd UPDATE - In February 2021 both of the valves have become faulty. It seems they will last only 3 years. They open and close just fine, they're just not closing the switch to fire up the boiler. I'll replace these again but may look for something that will last for more than 3 years. Still recommended due to the price and quietness, and still cheaper to buy 4 of these over the White Rodgers. Just know you're limited on reliability. Better buy 2.

Works great! I’ve installed over 100 zv’s , mostly Honeywell and this was the first time I used this brand and was presently pleased how reliable they are. Easy to install and can be manually overridden .

Well built valves. Easy to install with quick removal lever on the head unit. Good price too, will buy more as needed."

The product was just what I needed

I bought 2 of these to replace the Honeywell zone valves on my heating system that were leaking. I like to wait a little while on some items b4 posting a review to see how the product performs. I installed them over 2 months ago and they have been performing as advertised and best of all, I no longer have the leaking Honeywell zone valves which were only 5 years old. I liked the fact that by just sliding the little tab over the whole electromechanical assembly slides right off which made the whole operation of soldering these much easier and less worrisome. I could see that the part inside the valve that actually opens and closes the water flow had what appears to be a very hard rubber material on it to form the seal and I was unsure if I was supposed to disassemble the internal portion of the valve before soldering because I was worried that I might melt that part. I submitted my question to the support link for Valemo online and received an answer (that NO you do not disassemble the valve before soldering and that it can handle the high temperatures within ⅞

The valve components as well as the build quality seem to be of good quality, however the one I purchased would not activate the end switch. I discovered that the pin that is supposed to activate the lever on the microswitch inside does not move far enough, or is not close enough to the microswitch to reliably activate it when the valve is open. I removed one of the screws holding the microswitch in place and drilled out the hole in the plastic switch body a little bigger. This allowed me to shift the microswitch closer to the pin and then tighten the screw. It seems to be activating the switch more reliably now, but I'm not sure that I trust it. I'm not sure if this is a common problem or just an issue with the one I received.

My Modine is warm again in the cellar.

Ii

Ad as described. Nicely packaged,quick delivery.

This valve is working fine so far, and the price was great. I didn't give 5 * because I just bought it, and have to see how it works in the long run.

The valve is working great and doing what I want it to do. Construction and quality seems great. Time will tell if it holds up.I’m using it as bypass/diverting valve on a hot water furnace rad to allow me to not have flow through the coil when I want to just run the fan for air circulation. My first stage of heat(W1) energizes a relay that sends 24V power to the Valemo valve which in turn opens to the rad to allow hot water to heat. When the call for heat is over the relay de-energizes cutting power to the valve and it’s goes back to it NC position which allows the boiler hot water to bypass the coil

Installed a heater in my garage and used this valve to tie it into my boiler in 2018 and it's been working great since. Be sure to fully disassemble the valve prior to installation or you will melt and ruin the seals. After disassembly remove all the grease before you sweat the valve onto Pex fittings or copper pipe. Clean off all the flux residue and use a silicone lubricant suitable for O rings when reassembling. I like the fact that the heads are very easy to remove and swap out should I have to replace them in the future. I don't think it would be quite suitable for use on all copper systems as the bottom inlet fitting can't be assembled until after it's soldered. One would likely have to solder on a small length of copper pipe about 12" long to the fitting, replace the O ring and then screw the fitting on, and then drape a wet rag over the fitting when sweating the other end of the pipe to keep it from melting. I used O2 barrier Pex so this wasn't an issue for me.A note about flow. The valve has about a 3/8" inch port inside where the rubber closes against it and I was a bit concerned, however, a Honeywell valve also has a restriction of about the same size and I haven't noticed this having an impact on the rate of flow. I'm installing another six of these units in a hydronic loop and will edit this post should anything come up.

Seems to be a good product. A lot better price that I can find around. Will see after time if the qualitu is there