Maple Wood Veneer Sheet, Plain Sliced/Flat Cut, 24x96, A Grade, 10 mil Peel and Stick PSA Backer

This veneer is thin and strong and great for covering large sections of cabinetry. One caveat... I stained and varnished prior to cutting and mounting on cabinets. Small sections 1'x2' were fine. But large sheets ca. 8'x2' were very difficult to mount as the stain and varnish had caused the veneer to warp. As a result I trapped many air bubbles underneath the veneer that had to be vented with a pin hole and beaten down. Would have been much easier to cut and mount first, stained and varnished thereafter.

I bought this to laminate to glass for a lamp shade. Unfortunately, light has a hard time passing thru given the craft paper backing that is apparently required in order to apply the PSA adhesive.I have previously tried to laminate wood veneers to glass using contact cement for use in lamp shades. This seemed to work well and gave good light transition thru the exotic veneers I was using. Unfortunately, over time the contact cement failed (on the glass). I was confident that the PSA would hold to the glass and my plan was to place this product on the glass and then use normal veneer adhesive to laminate an exotic to the wood veneer that the PSA gave me. A month on, the adhesion of both surfaces seems to be good. But light transition both before and after adding the exotic is poor. So the lamp shade looks great - just lacking the visual I was after when the light was turned on.... The problem is, I think, the kraft paper backing on the veneer. I had not considered that this would be present - but in retrospect, it makes sense - and it is what it is...

I covered a dresser top because I wanted a real wood finish and didn’t want to try stripping the glossy paint job someone else had done before me.I sanded the top and edges before VERY carefully laying down the veneer and removing the backing. (Wish I’d had someone help me, but it worked, nonetheless!)(Then I used iron-on veneer for the edges)Sanded the corners and edges and stained and varnished.The adhesive is very strong! The veneer takes stain and varnish very well. I’m thrilled with the outcome.. I’d definitely use it again!I’d only suggest finding a partner for larger projects since the adhesive is so strong, and you CANNOT make a mistake!

As a "back-porch" woodworker, I was hesitant to try applying wood veneer. Once before, I used a veneer requiring contact cement and admittedly made a mess of it. This Pressure Sensitive Veneer, however, was amazing. Cut it, peel and stick, apply pressure, trim, and done!! It was so easy, I was amazed, and the results were gorgeous. My project was an old cedar trunk that had been damaged by too many years in storage, and I am just thrilled with the results!! I'd buy it again in a heartbeat.

I love this veneer. This is the first time I use it and result is amazing.

I bought several of these for cabinet refacing jobs. They all came with glue stuck to the face of the veneer where the inside roll touched it. It cleans up easily with Acetone, or Adhesive Cleaner. The problem with wrinkling comes from the liquid used to stain or finish the veneer. I was able to work around it because I was cutting small strips. If you are staining the material you should try to find Wood-on-Wood veneer. This will not wrinkle

The veneer itself looks great, but this was spoiled by the line of adhesive glue that was on the surface where it was rolled up, and worse there is a 1-1/2 strip along one edge where there is no adhesive backing rendering that portion unusable.

The sheet was rolled in an 8" diameter box. The self adhesive back left a line of glue residue on the face of the veneer. It took considerable scraping and sanding to get it off which affected the look. It should be OK once stained but not great way to ship. A simple piece of paper on the inside of the roll would have prevented this from happening.