[Gulfcoast Robotics] All Metal Hotend Conversion Kit - Polished Titanium Heatbreak for Creality Ender 3 Pro and V2, Ender 5 Pro and Plus and CR10 3D Printers

When I started printing PETG, I used to get blocked hotend's all the time. The issues with using an all metal is to follow instructions on installing. If you want a good result, then understand how they work.1/ You must get the heat break to fit tight against the nozzle to stop any leaks.2/ When you change nozzles, NEVER allow the heat block to move as you remove the nozzle. This hot end does not have the two screws (that screw up the function of high temp printing). Hold it tight with a pair of good pliers or with a crescent wrench and only change nozzles at the full temperature.The printing results are extremely good with this. Along with normal maintenance of the printers. Before you print anything make sure all the screws are tight, and the rollers have a clean track, have no wiggle, and the rollers are snug against the tracks.When I start a print, I will always check the bed for having no movements, and runs very smooth on the rollers.If you find any movement up or down after snugging the rollers, then you have a bad roller bearing or two.After 300 prints the quality is still nearly perfect. The layers look really nice. And I print my PETG parts at 0.12 layer height and some at .36 width for extra strength. I print mostly PETG and have great results.For TPU you want the teflon tube in contact with the nozzle, because you need all the "slick" you can get to make it into the nozzle and make nice flexible prints. For that I use the "Hot End Fix" on Thingiverse.

Prior to getting this hot end, I was struggling with printing PETG and having it stick to my bed. After the first 2 good prints, I couldn't get another reliable print from that spool to save my life, and it was very frustrating. Whether it was not sticking to the bed, excessive stringing, not extruding enough, or a slew of other issues I was having, it was just being difficult.Finally, I was able to get that print to stick (on the stock hot end), but I had to be at 235C in order to do it! I took a look at my PTFE tube and it was charred and breaking down at that temp. SO I ordered this kit and was very impressed.Build quality is good. No instructions came with it, but their support team responded to an email without a few hours with a detailed guide and answered all my questions. (Installation is very straightforward, but I'm glad I asked the questions I did because I didn't know about the Heat to 250C then tighten the nozzle).My first print with the same material I was having issues with printed just about perfect. There was still minor stringing issues, but that can be dialed in with settings. What really shocked me is that this material, which the old hot end needed to be at 235C in order for a possibly-ok print printed fantastic at 215C! thats a whopping 20C lower, the stock hot-end would barely extrude properly at that temp.I'm curious how this compares to the TH3D titanium all-metal conversion, which just replaces the heat break on the stock hot end. I had that as well in case I didn't like this, but am so satisfied with this product I think I'll save the other one as a spare / if I decide to go to a dual-hot end setup.

This works nice and I am happy with it.I originally installed per instructions (at least I thought I did). After a few nice prints it started to leak. This only caused issues with PETG where a blob would build on the side of the nozzle, brown up, and then drop on the print. This lead to either a random brown blob on my print or a collision and layer shift.So... I took apart and cleaned/polished the heater block and heat break with a heat gun, wire bush, and file. Then I put the block and break back together, using a heat gun to get em hot and tightened up good. Then added a new nozzle, heated it all up and tightened good. Been running perfect since. Im saying to make extra sure that the break is tightened into the block with heat and then the nozzle into the block so it is all tight and there is no way anything can ooze past those threads.

I used one of these on my Ender 3 v2 and it was like a gift from heaven. 99.9999999% of my persistent heat creep issues were solved with this hot end. That being the case, I ordered one for my Ender 3 Max thinking I would avoid any heat creep issues with the stock hot end. AND, that mostly happened except despite installing it correctly and cold and hot tightening the grub screws and the print nozzle, I got consistent leaks around the threads of both the nozzles and the heat break with predictable results - clogged nozzle and persistent under extrusion. I had read user reviews about the leakage, but paid them little heed due to my experience with this hot end on my E3 v2. To make a long story short, after some investigation I discovered the threads for the nozzle and the heat break had what I consider excess play and even when properly tightened - cold and hot, allowed for leakage around the threads. After some careful consideration on a solution, I opted to wrap the threads of the heat break and the nozzle with common plumbers teflon tape. Its working temp on the high side is 500 C, which is hot enough for the filament I use. I currently print only PLA, so this solution seems ideal. After reassembling with the teflon tape and re-tightening (cold and hot), the leakage problem is gone along with the attendant side problems and the printer produces beautiful results. Unless you print with very high temp plastics this solution is easy and inexpensive and makes this clone a worthwhile purchase. Barring the leakage problem, this is a very good product, well made, easy to install and with the titanium alloy heat break has eliminated my heat creep problem.