ShelterLogic

Frist off, it’s a well-constructed unit with good quality parts. And assembly is straight forward; I did it myself in a few hours. The concern about it constantly falling apart during assembly was not my experience even though I did follow some of the recommendations to ‘tie’ it together. Was clear to me that these temporary ties were not needed due to the sung fit of the tubing.Here are the tips I suggest based on my experience in installing this at my seasonal campsite.Step 6: post squaring up the frame in Step 5, mark where to place the anchors inboard a about 4 inches from the corners at a 45-degree line from the comer. This way the anchors will (when attaching the securing lines) both ‘pull’ the frame side to side and front to back. Then move the fame over a couple of feet to install the anchors.New Step 6A: place back the frame and square it up again. Now take 4 spikes (not included) and drive them thru part 800361 which is the ‘foot’ of the frame. There are holes in this part including one at the top and bottom that will accommodate this spike and still allow the rachets in later steps to attach. The spikes will now hold the frame in place nice and square while installing the canvas. Given this you can skip over (not do) the loose wire ties to the anchors in steps 6a thru 6e.Note that I consider the supplied anchors more then adequate for my conditions.Step 7, 8 and 9: the “i” are simply telling you to NOT put the poles inside the sleeves and to NOT pull out the strap. The canvas ‘wraps’ around the frame and when you pull on the straps as you cinch it up. It will make sense once you do one panel.Step 8 and 9: you will need to pull apart select tubing joints for the straps. Having a rubber mallet will both help to get them apart and put the back together again.Step 11: the supplied rachets, while adequate, are fragile and finicky. One of mine was bent up (due to shipping damage?) so I had to pull it apart and straighten it out. Also, if needing to release the strap once tightened you may have to assist it to unwind. A screwdriver in the ‘slot’ of the wrapper core will assist in that. Additionally, the straps are too long (better then too short!). I found that cutting off about 6 inches per end left enough to properly wrap around the rachet but not fill it up to the point of overflowing and binding up. And do not forget to use a lighter to melt the end so it does not unravel.Step 11a. the hook of the rachet goes into the hole in the foot on the interior. The outside holes are for the large tarp that is installed in starting in step 12.Step 14: when placing the overall tarp and starting to tie it down, it is easy to have it too far forward or backward, so take your time and adjust as you go along. I measured the amount of ‘warp’ on the front (both left and right side) and same on back and got it as even as possible. Was about 5”.Step 14a: when putting the 2 tubes together pay attention to the holes on each end. They need to line up. While this is shown in the diagram, was not an obvious highlight.Step 17a. while the measurement shown is about correct, understand that the height and position of these cross beams dictate the both the location and the tightness of tarp. If one crossbeam is too high the other too low will result in an uneven wrap of the tarp. Once I centered the tarp, I loosened the clamps (part no. 13202) slightly and then tapped down the crossbeams with a rubber mallet to get the necessary tension.Step 18: I snaked the wire tie between the end of the crossbeam and the upright pole fishing it thru the clamp (there is room). By doing this the hold down wire is ‘trapped’ vs. being able to slide along the cross beam as it is shown in18e. Also, I fed the wire differently thru the wire clamp; i.e. instead of it being as shown in 12d. I fed the bitter ends in thru it in opposite directions. Then, after slightly tightening the nuts and using Vice-Grips, I was able pull it tight and then fully tighten the nuts. And this is where, if the anchors are at that few inches of kitty corner, it really holds the whole shelter in a good and tight fashion. And key to this are the spikes in new Step 6A, i.e. the spikes will keep the frame from pulling in when attaching the wire ties.Post all of this, need to check to ensure the door zips up without stress or being too loose. If so, pull out the spikes in the front and adjust as needed. I also when around and readjusted the rachets as needed.Overall, as great product that I expect will last a long time!UPDATE:Follow up after a couple of months, but it’s been like a couple of years! This was installed at my campsite in the Adirondack mountains in upstate NY where, like the rest of the country, we have been experiencing extreme weather conditions. Like those labs where they test things under extreme conditions to evaluate how it will hold up in the long term, we have had extreme winds as well as rain and unseasonably cold conditions this summer.How's it doing?Short answer: it like the day it was installed! Still sturdy, no rips, still taught and zero water inside (the ground can get wet from water running under it via the rocks). Recall also that I used the supplied “temporary” anchors > they were just fine for my soil conditions, but I did use spikes in the tubes as part of the set-up process and left them in.Updated from 4 to 5 Stars as a result!Door Tip.I continue to enjoy this shed but found it a little awkward to roll up the door and bungee it open > it simply does not roll up too easily. Fortunately, the bottom of the door has a pocket and a 1” PVC pipe fit it like it was made for it. And Presto! Now rolls up like a dream and easy to put on the bungees. I put end caps on the pipe after cutting it to length to keep out the critters. Note of caution: when unrolling it, guide it down to preclude it from falling and jerking the door which may eventually damage it. I used schedule 40 PVC but would have preferred schedule 10 as its slightly lighter but there was no availability in my area.

I was weary at first on the design but it I’d great. Was easy to put together mostly on my own, up until it came to strapping it down (to keep the tie downs even) easy to follow instructions. All pieces are numbered. The stakes were the harder part of this assembly. I got a hydraulic jack bar handle though and it made it easy to drive the stakes into the ground. Cant say much on durability since Ive only had it up one day, but the material doesnt appear to be cheap. Definitely will hold up to the wind with the stakes being 18” twist stakes. Recommend product for easy outside storage. Only tool needed will be a 5/16 socket towards the end of the build.

I have been in need of a shed for some time now. With the price of lumber through the roof during the pandemic, a wood shed was out of the question. I had previously owned a Rubbermaid 7'x7' shed, but the prices of that shed has gone up substantially over the last few years as well. For the price, the Shelter Logic cannot be beat. The 10'x10' is a great size for my needs.Assembly was more involved than I anticipated. I did most of the assembly myself, so that could have something to do with it. Another issue was that the part numbers stamped onto some of the metal tubing was really hard to distinguish. Some of them were readable, but probably half of them were not easily readable.The instructions are okay. Would it really kill them to write out some of the explanations? Most of the steps were pretty clear, but I was definitely unsure of how the ratchet straps should attach. The pictures in my booklet made it look like both straps (on each corner) hooked to the outside of the tube, which isn't really possible, plus why are there holes on both sides of the tube. I don't know if it really matters how they are connected, but 1 strap is visible at each corner. None of the photos I've looked at seem to show the straps being visible.I did not purchase the door roll up kit. Rolling up the door is kind of a pain in the butt, so I ended up buying a 10' piece of 1" PVC pipe. I cut it to the size of the bottom of the door and filled the PVC with sand to give it some weight. I capped both sides of the pipe. Now it rolls up with ease and the weight of it makes it hard for critters to get under the door.Only time will tell how well the shed cover holds up to the Georgia sun. It's been in use for about 2 months now. I have it mostly in the shade, but there are a few hours a day where it gets full sun. It does get hot inside the shed, so I may buy a set of vents for it. We haven't had any really strong winds yet, probably nothing over 20 mph gusts, but it seems pretty sturdy, even with the temporary stakes that it came with.

This "shed in a box" was a huge disappointment. The quality is terrible — thin materials that feel like they'll collapse in the first strong wind. The instructions were confusing and incomplete, with poorly labeled (or completely unlabeled) parts. It took two of us several frustrating hours to put it together, and even then it still didn't fit quite right.There are loose gaps along the bottom, which will absolutely let in rain, critters, and anything else looking for shelter. It looks cheap once assembled — not even close to what’s shown in the photos. Honestly, the only reason I haven’t returned it is because it would be nearly impossible to disassemble and repack. I'm guessing the first strong wind will take it away...Save your time, money, and sanity — look elsewhere. I do not recommend this product.