Bob Smith Industries BSI-203H Mid-Cure™ Epoxy - 4.5 oz. Combined, Light Amber - 15-Minute Working Time Adhesive for Wood, Metal, Fiberglass, Crafts & Repairs

Best Epoxy I've used. It always does the job in keeping things together and best of all, it never dries as the epoxy and hardener bottles are separate with their own caps. The syringe type hardens and becomes trash if not used for a long time, but these last a long time (probably forever).

I chose the No.203 epoxy to assemble golf clubs and have used the product numerous times over the past three years. It is significantly more flexible than other epoxies. This makes it an excellent choice to attach heads to shafts and to fix an extender in the butt end of a shaft. Another feature of No. 203 is that it has a lower melting point than other epoxies. This is particularly useful when removing a head from a graphite shaft. With No. 203, I am able to use an electric heat gun instead of a propane torch to heat the hosel or adapter. This minimizes the chance of damaging the paint on a club head or distorting an adjustable adapter. Many DYI's who work on golf clubs use the hardest epoxies with high melting points they can find. I've worked on clubs in which the original J-B Weld was used to hold the head to the shaft. When such an epoxy is used, it is nearly impossible to remove the head without damaging the paint and, most often, without damaging the graphite shaft, which are, themselves, made of graphite cloth saturated with an epoxy-like resin. When the graphite shaft is overheated while removing the head, it is destroyed. If you work on golf clubs, you will have noticed that many manufacturers are now using an adhesive with a low melting point similar to No. 203. In particular, TaylorMade is using something which never seems to completely harden and remains somewhat "gummy". When I noticed this three or four years ago, I searched for something similar and found BSI-203. While it is not the same as the adhesive used by TM, it is somewhat flexible and the lower melting point makes it easier to remove a head. I did have one failure where the head came loose when playing. However, I attribute this failure to poor work on my part, either by not having mixed equal parts of epoxy and hardener or by moving the position of the head on the shaft while it was setting up.

Top notch this proxy works excellent holds really well

Excellent Epoxy. Much better pricing than the syringes. I love that it's a 15 min. setting and not a fast setting 5 min. formula, it gives you some time to get everything lined up before it hardens.

Used to attach a knife blade to a new handle. Worked as planned.

Good stuff not cheap

I used this to rebuild and reinforce a small section of the handlebar casing of a Vespa scooter. Two chunks of quarter-sized plastic had broken off the bottom of the back half of the casing, taking with them a hole through which a screw holds the halves of the casing together. I had managed to save one of the chunks, but the other was gone. I superglued the chunk I had to the casing to hold it in place temporarily, cleaned and sanded the area. Then I spread four layers of fiberglass cloth, wetted out with epoxy, across the chunk, the hole, and the intact part of the casing to reinforce the glued chunk and rebuild the missing chunk. Once that started to cure I used another small batch of epoxy to fill in the gaps. I let it all cure overnight, ground off the excess with a Dremel tool, and redrilled the hole. The epoxy adhered nicely to the sanded plastic and the cure time was long enough to set the job up well without having to panic. The longer cure epoxy is a little stronger, less rubbery, and gives you more time to mix properly than the quick cure stuff.

Epoxy works as advertised. Seller was prompt.

Works well cures fast.

I have used this 15 Minute Mid Cure Epoxy before with success. This recent purchase was a replacement as one of two components had become rather too stiff to easily squeeze out of the bottle. Still mixed and glued OK though.

excellent . great glue.