BIGTREETECH for LD-002H Spring Steel Build Plate for SLA/DLP 3D printer 138X85MM Flexible Build System for Resin with Magnetic Sticker

After Elegoo thoughtfully gifted me a test rook that welded itself so completely to the build plate I had to resort to physical violence to get the thing off, I'd put a ding (or two) in my brand new build plate. I'm sure I'm not alone in this! So I checked online for replacements, found none, but saw this flexible build plate system that reminded me of Prusa's design on the MK3 FDM printers. Made sense, so I ordered straight away.Installation of the magnetic plate was easy enough. I use a lot of adhesive films in my work so I know to just expose a narrow strip of adhesive, then position, and peel off the rest. It's a bit of a reach so I use forceps to grab the cover paper, I guess long-nosed pliers would do just as well.My first print was a simple calibration panel flat on the build plate, would've been a horrible job to remove before, but a quick flex of the steel plate and it was off. Fantastic!2nd print and the build plate tilted at the last moment and ground itself noisily into the vat. I see that Elegoo use A4988 drivers so there's no current-sensing safety net when moving the platform, Trinamics would've been nice. The FEP was dented and cracked, and I dread to think about the screen. It wasn't visibly damaged, but I'll be looking out for dead pixels in that corner. Anyway, after much swearing, clean-up and FEP replacement I thought that maybe I hadn't tightened the screws properly when levelling? Silly Me.3rd print, same. During the swearing and clean-up stage I noticed there was a scuff on the inside of the vat, and then it dawned on me what had happened.TL:DRIt seems that on my Mars 2 Pro, the build plate is set forward on the Y-axis instead of being centred in the vat. This makes absolutely no sense to me, but the makers of the flexible plate MUST have known this 'feature' as the pull-tab fits perfectly when it's positioned facing the BACK of the machine! There's no room for adjustment in the design, so I would assume that all Mars 2 Pro's are the same.So, just remember to snap the plate on with the TAB AT THE BACK, and all will be well!So yeah I took a star off an otherwise excellent product. Maybe instead of the pointless engraved logo on the tab they could've put ^BACK^ instead? I'll probably order another, it's just a shame they don't sell the steel plates by themselves. I guess you could use the spare magnet to make fridge ornaments or something?

I am an engineer with over 50 years of technical experience and sadly the magnetic abilities of the backing were far greater than the adhesive qualities.I use water wash resin so it was not attacked by the alcohol-based resin but still, the adhesive gave up the ghost after about one month and 15 small 1 hour prints.Yesterday, by chance, I came across a video, supposedly by the manufacturer showing the extent to which it was felt one needed to go to achieve adhesion.Such instructions should be made clear on the sales material.Such instruction should be included with the product.

Otherwise really good, makes bottom of prints have a metallic finish too which is aesthetically pleasing

I use this plate on my saturn and it has made getting the prints off the plate really easy. I gave it 4 stars as it has dropped on the magnet once on a larger print.

The plate works great, print sticks with no problem, then detaches when flexed. Even when washing the print, it stays in position until it’s time to detach. There is a small rim in one corner of the plate designed to make it easier to release the plate. I cut it of as it scraped against the side of the tank when lowered, even though this was a very good upgrade, and we’ll worth the money

Brill item but unsticks/fails to stick magnet to plate after about 2-3 months and plate on arrival needs degreasing, sanding and cleaning before use.Im luchy i ordered 2x... Now ill put additional magnet to plate support

I'd read a few things about magnetic flexi build plates for resin printers for a while, but been a bit reticent about getting one.I should not have been.I have an Elegoo Mars Pro that I got around May 2020. Printing has been good, but sometimes the plate adhesion was a little TOO good. Elegoo's water-washable black resin in particular was extremely difficult to remove and even with the other resins, a raft was always needed if I didn't want to spend 15 mins chiselling the print off the plate, sometimes damaging the print and frequently scoring the plateSo this arrived the other day, and I pulled on my big-boy pants and stuck the magnety thing to the plate (after a good old clean with IPA.) First thing to note; it's not 100% perfectly sized/shaped to the build plate, maybe 0.5-1mm oversized, and I did think about trimming it to size, but figured, so long as it stays put, more magnet to hold the plate in place is more important. I then left it about 24 hrs for the glue to cure. (It's a 3M branded sticky sheet, so no chance of the resin flowing into gaps etc and making life messier.)So, time for bed levelling. Some printers need to have the z-limit switch moved and spacers added to account for the extra thickness of the magnet and metal sheet., but the original Mars Pro does not appear to need that. I popped the metal plate on and pressed the edges to a flat surface to make sure the plate was aligned, and screwed the plate in place and levelled the plate as I normally would using the sheet of paper method.There is sufficient "play" in the ball-joint to account for the additional thickness, but it was close. The first time I tried, the printer complained that I needed to Home the plate before setting Z=0 so it must not have hit the switch, but loosening the plate, moving the Z axis another 3-4mm lower allowed me to set Z=0 fine.I was then able to print away exactly as I did before. You could even get away with not removing the build-plate, just remove the metal plate, but reattaching it straight might be tricky. In any case, removing prints is SO easy, I did a few prints and was still using rafts, but can do without the bevelled sidewall now. Just a slight flex of the plate and you can just peel the print off, I didn't even need a plastic scraper, let alone a metal one. I have yet to try the black resin that I had issues with, but I don't anticipate a problem anymore.I wish I'd got one of these a long time ago, it's already improved my post-processing and I think it's one of those quality of life things that should be on all printers.

makes taking prints of the build plate very easy