RECOIL SL1708 240 Watt 8" Under-Seat Slim Amplified Car Subwoofer with 99.99% Oxygen Free Copper Installation Wiring Kits

I got this for my husband in April, worked fine until the other day when we heard a loud pop and smelt burning. We had to pull over and remove the radio to disconnect the sub/amp. Luckily the radio is still working.

No es equivalente a uno de cajón pero suena bastante bien, lo único malo que note es que se calienta muy rápido y mucho... No sé si a largo plazo eso afecte, es fácil instalar y tiene buen sonido, iré actualizando conforme pase el tiempo ACTUALIZACION: despues de unos 3 meses de uso dejo de funcionar de la nada, prende pero no se escucha, cheque fusibles y todo y se ve bien pero ya no se oye... intente obtener soporte de la empresa o de amazon y es imposible, simplemente no me sale la opcion, mañana la llevare a reparar a ver que me dicen, el calentamiento es excesivo, literal no tengo manos delicadas pero no aguantaba poner la mano por mas de 5 segundos... la destape por mi cuenta y no vi nada quemado o fuera de lugar, si logran repararmela, le hare unas perforaciones para entrada y salida de aire a ver si con eso aguanta y desquita lo que costo, a esta altura si supiera lo que se no la compraba.... salvo que vivas en un lugar con climas suuuper frios estaria bien, de ahi en fuera NO ACTUALIZACION 2: Lo destapo un técnico y dijo que falló la fuente de poder, quemó la bocina y algunos componentes, los fusibles nunca hicieron su trabajo y eso que trae 2, la reparación me costaba sobre 1200 y eso que el técnico es muy amigo mío... En otros lados mínimo debe andar sobre 1500 o más... reviso mis conexiones para ver si fue por una mala instalación o a qué se debía la falla y me dijo que todo estaba bien que posiblemente fue producto defectuoso... Yo voy más al calentamiento, desde nuevo se calentaba muchísimo. Actualizcion si venía defectuoso lo repararon pero igual se calienta mucho, compré uno cuadrado y no se calienta... Suena menos pero rellena los bajos bien y no me ha dado lata y me salió más barata

Very nice product. Could use a bit more bass. But overall very good product. Been using it for a year.

article incomplet obligation de le renvoyer avec beaucoup de difficultés.

Hello Amazon, I drive a 2005 Xterra. This is my honest review, as well as a summarized breakdown of my installation in instructional format for those of you new to this or unaware of what you’re getting into. I am a certified low voltage electrical technician, so my instructions are trusting. Firstly, the review post install. The subwoofer in its entirety took me about 4 hours to install. This included having to splice into my speakers, finding the firewall grommet, hanging and mounting the power wire, and pulling up trim to hide the wires. After using for roughly 2 weeks, I unhooked the subwoofer for about 4 days. It was under my seat on a little platform I built to keep it off the carpet. It was getting so hot that it began to melt my carpet. I didn’t think it was the product as all fuses were performing their job and power testing showed no wrong numbers or percentages versus the manufacturer specifications. The gain on this device is absolutely heavy. Please be precautionary with messing with the gain, bass boost, and LPF. Adjust only a 16th of a turn once a day or once per hour of music. Once I adjusted my settings lower than initially set, my sub is self containing temperature levels at a medium warmth instead of a danger hot. The subwoofer delivers incredible sound quality and heaviness to the hits. Completely transformed the music experience in my car for all 4 passengers. You will need to do some work and have supplies that the Chinese instructions don’t soecifiy- Supplies needed: You will need a micro flathead/electronics screwdriver flathead to adjust the master knobs. You will need an 8 gauge splicing kit. Just get an 8 gauge wire crimp coupler, and some 8 gauge heat shrink. You will need a 3/4” drill bit. I recommend you purchase a trim removal tool kit for $10 off Amazon to assist in removing trim around your vehicle for wire management and access. You’ll need philips and whatever else is required to take nuts and bolts off your vehicle. You will need 20 zip ties. You will need 20 blue/orange/grey wire nuts. You will need HIGH QUALITY SPEAKER WIRE. Start by connecting the end of the red cable to positive on battery terminal. Begin to move the power wire around your engine bay and imagine the wire ziptied to the harness as seen in the photo. You want to go ahead and lay this out so you know how much slack to cut before you run it through the firewall. Next, go under the driver side dash, pull carpet and insulation back, look for the same black squishy rubber grommets as seen in my photo where the red wire is coming from. Take your drill and drill through the rubber pancake. This will make a hole to slip the wire through. Give yourself an extra 18” of slack on the wire you will connect to the battery. Cut at the extra 18 inch mark. Twist the copper strands and feed through the firewall access. Now connect your wires back together with the coupler. Feed the wire through the trim to the seat you will be hiding the speaker under. Take the blue and grey 4 wires and leave them under the seat. Take your high quality speaker wire, and 4 colors of electrical tape, open your bezel on the dash and access the radio wire harness. Cut 4 inches back from the radio into each speaker wire and simply splice the new wire into the cut, wire nut it, tape it, and label the tape Front left Neg, Front Left Pos, Front Right Neg, front right pos. Fish these wires to the leg well and then under the trim by your driver door. These will then respectively connect to the blue and grey wires with wire nuts. This will plug into the sub. Take your knob controller and drill the screws and controller somewhere comfy for you. If no where plastic like the console is available, I’d subject screwing it directy onto something plastic on your seat that’s accessible. Or you better be committed to being safe with a loose knob controller. Test the radio on a dubstep or bass heavy YouTube station like UKF, Kevin Gates, Billie Eilish, Trap Nation, Skrillex, etc. Adjust your EQ to preference first. I suggest setting it to standard POP or Bass Heavy. Now, and I’m dead serious or you risk dangerous heat and possibly destroying your subwoofer, adjust the master knobs with the tiny flathead by a 16th of a turn maximum. Only adjust again and Bassboost after first install enough until the subwoofer is activated . After that point, wait until tomorrow and adjust and listen. Reduce or increase LPF for heavy echo This is that bone vibrating feeling. Reduce or increase gain for power allowed to the subwoofer. This affects the punch and intensity. Bass boost knob controls the “juiciness” of that makes sense. Adjust the gain and boost courteously. LPF is overwhelming at a 16th turn so go light.