Pack of 4 Easy Fence Post Repair Kit (to Fix 2 Broken Wood Posts), Quick and Simple to Install, Effective, Durable Steel Stakes

Worked very well on stabilizing a 17 year old slightly rotted 6x6 cedar arbor post. I plan stabilize the other posts in the same manor as needed. A lot stronger than they appear.

Installed today. Have a mini sledge, generic hammer will take forever. Use a lot of screws.So far it has stiffened the post. There is some value in noticing how stiffly it goes in when hammering. The wood inside the concrete surely will rot too, probably more water down there, but the stiffness hammering suggests lots of wood remains. I am hopeful for a few years, but probably can't blame the post buddy if that doesn't happen. No way of knowing the state of the wood deep in the concrete hole.

looks as advertised

We purchased this product a couple of times now. Our fence posts rots on the base and this product saved us money and time. We used to have to either replace the entire post (too expensive) or cut the bottom of the post and put brick/cement underneath (not stable and time consuming). Highly recommended.

As always, depends on your specific situation, i.e. was concrete poured as a "cup" under post, is there even concrete, how rotten is the post below grade, etc. etc.Is it perfect? No, still some flex with the posts, but it straightened 2 posts that were leaning several inches over, and pulling rest of fence with them, and has since withstood strong wind and rain.I had 2 posts, one with a concrete collar, the other in dense, clay soil, and this worked in both situations. The posts were not completely rotten once you went deeper. Often times posts only rot at ground level, or just below.In a different situation, and post was in better shape, I used 12 guage simpson wood straps (12-16 inches long), and they worked well. But the Post Buddy with the ridges, did drive deeper and bite better. The simpson straps were too short and didn't get below the rotten wood for the worst posts.Also, when you drive in the Post Buddy's , they end up somewhat "v"ed out at the top, i.e. an inch or so separated from the post on both sides, so when you screw them into the post, there is tension. This tension helped to pull the post back to vertical. Tip, drive in the Post Buddy on the side that the post is leaning >away< from first, so you can get post closer to vertical before driving in the one on the leaning side.

I purchased two one-post packages because I needed to stabilize a couple 4x4" Cedar Posts supporting my seven-foot wood panel fence installed by Amerifence some 15 years ago. All of the original 11 4x4 cedar posts supporting the fence panels have rotted at and probably below ground level. A recent windstorm caused the better part of that length of fence supported by those posts to lean over my neighbor's 4-foot chain link fence at a 45 degree angle and I was worried that the weight of my wood fence might damage my neighbor's fence if it fell down onto it.I used a single post buddy piece to support each of my four worst posts. I used only one post buddy piece for each post because I realized that the rot in my posts was too bad for even 3 or 4 post buddy pieces to "fix" even one post.I was quite impressed by how one post buddy piece helped in stabilizing my extremely rotted fence posts. Had my 4x4 posts not been so rotted, I believe the Post Buddy system would have worked well for me.Finding a single post buddy piece insufficient for my own situation, I anchored each of those posts with ropes and a twelve inch earth anchor as a temporary fix while I arrange to permanently replace the rotted posts. Know that my 4x4 cedar posts were set three feet deep with DRY Cement by my fence company. I have already had to replace the posts on one-third of my fence line two years ago because of the posts rotting at ground level.My post replacement plan for this third of my fence line is the same as I deployed for the first fence line that failed two years ago due to ground level rot. The plan involves new ground-contact, treated Pine 4x4 posts inside three foot deep 4x4 vinyl post sleeves in 3-foot deep 6”x6” post holes, with a few inches of pea gravel at the base and mixed-with-water concrete around the sleeves to protect the pine 4x4’s from contact with either cement or ground water. My intent is to be able, in the future, to detach fence panels, easily extract any deteriorating posts, replace those posts with new 4x4’s into the sleeves and re-attach the fence panels ... to avoid having to remove rotted concrete-adhered 4x4 posts and the concrete itself.Hope this helps anyone who cares.

If you like breaking loose fence sections and digging up concrete and pulling out fence posts, then this is not for you. But if you don't want to spend a whole lot of time repairing broken fence posts, I suggest using these guys. I have fixed fences posts a number of different ways, and this is by far the quickest and easiest way I have tried so far. It does a great job of restoring fence posts to usable condition. I have an extra set on hand for the nest time I need it.

The media could not be loaded. I’ve used these in a few different spots over the years. They do the trick. Not sure how long they’ll last before I’ll have to replace but so far my older ones have held up. This latest instillation I used the handle of a screwdriver and wedged it between the fence post and the post buddy so I could pound on the metal without risking missing and hitting my hand.