Dow AgroSciences 173917 Eagle 20EW Fungicide, 16oz-1 Pint

Go to product for zone 7 for powdery mildew

I have a bunch of decorative (expensive) Cedars in a mass planting, but they are located near another mass planting of Junipers... which I have discovered is a big no-no. As a result, the Cedars have developed a type of rust. I was afraid I would lose all of them, but this Eagle 20W knocked the stuff out last year and the Cedars completely recovered. The rust is trying to come back this year on a couple of the Cedars, so I've reordered the Eagle 20W. This is good stuff and works for other fungus issues besides rust.

It seems to be working. I have made one application and the instructions call for two. During the first 10 days I’m getting a little bit of growth in the affected areas. It’s time to make the second application and I hope it cheers the problem.

I call this my "big boy" fungicide. I don't fool around when I'm mixing or applying this stuff, I wear PPE (long pants, shoe protectors, NIOSH respirator mask, goggles, thick gloves). There's SO much powdery mildew and shot-hole disease this year on almost everything in our yard (hydrangeas, peonies, creeping ivy, stone fruit trees, hardwood trees, you name it). It's terrible. I tried copper fungicide, but it was a joke. Completely ineffective (and yet surprisingly easy to kill your plants if you use too much...go figure). This stuff is intended for serious agricultural use, not for little home consumers like me. For the mixing ratios, you're gonna have to put on the green eyeshade and convert ounces per acre per 100 gallons to your own use case. I'm sure I did it wrong. This said, this stuff is literally a life-saver for many of my plantings.

Much cheaper per gallon of spray than Immunox, but not good for mixing up a gallon or two. Best if you mix up 20 or more gallons at a time, due to its concentrated form. Controls the fungi that its supposed to.

I've noticed oak trees were browning before fall for some time now. Two years my oak did the same thing. I read about several blights and insects that could cause the problem and decided to do something. This is what I came up with to try and save the tree. This tree measured 66" in girth at chest height. I sat three 5 gallon buckets with a 3/16" hole drilled in the bottom of each around the base of my tree. In a separate 5 gallon bucket I mixed: * 4 gallons of water. * 22 ounces of Imadacloprid systemic insecticide. * 4 ounces of Eagle 20EW systemic fungicide. * 24 ounces of liquid fertilizer in hopes the roots would better absorb the solution if the fertilizer would act as a carrier. * Then I filled each bucket with this mixture. (So times 3) Attached is a picture of the oak tree over a year later. So far I don't see any blight or insect damage at all. Maybe that concoction works!?! PLEASE NOTICE: While I did read and follow label directions for the insecticide and fertilizer, this use may not be according to label directions for Eagle 20EW. Please consult with your local county extension office.

Seems to be working. Instructions for use are incomplete and assume that it is being applied through professional equipment -- i.e. it does not provide instructions to use in a hose-end sprayer.

My go-to fungicide spray for my hobby vineyard. Its geared towards most of the common grape fungal diseases and gets me through the season with about 3 spray periods for 200 grape vines. Dependable, and a must-have in the temperate mid-west climate.