Portable Chainsaw Mill 36 Inchs Rail Mill Guide System

Works great. Make sure your first cut is straight and the rest is simple.You need a nice size saw to run this, so if you have anything under a 350 stihl it may not work for you. I use an old stihl 361 and it works but under that I wouldn't push it

Had to make a few mods to the hardware but over all works like it should

I bought this to mill some trees that fell. We were able to put it together (the instructions were not very good/clear). When we tried to use it, it was very awkward to get it to work, and eventually had to abandon it. I believe this is suited for a larger chainsaw than the 18" saw that I was using to mill 16" boards.

Good tool and i used it already and work perfect

Works great but make sure you get the longer arm and the rip chain for your chainsaw

Hello, I cannot use this mill due to their forward bar clamp not making contact with the bar. Meaning the curved chain guard was manufactured with bolt holes too wide.Manufacturer knows this is a problem because they’ve added an addendum to ‘assembly book’ instructing to use a 2XM6 screw, and calling it “new function”.I will not do this because it this small contact point will definitely damage my bar. So if I want to use it I must need spend money on a welded plate (a washer or loose plate in that position would be extremely dangerous).Rather than the no-name-on-the-instructions manufacturer doing the right thing & replacing it with a properly designed guard, they shipped a non-functional product.Also, the nuts for cutting height adjustment could have been welded on the top side, not the bottom, so that the user, me, could have easy access with a socket wrench. rather than working from the top, which has other parts in the way.Cheap ain’t always inexpensive, and this product is also frustrating.

Assembly was easy. It was fun to see the end result. What was harder to do was balancing the saw while setting up for the 1st cut. I used Heavy C- clamp that helped alot, clamping the bar down was a trick. My chainsaw is a Black and Decker 15 amp corded with a 18" bar. So I can only imagine what it would be like with the gas engine chainsaw

First on the good. The manufacturer understands nuts, bolts and washers are dirt cheap and threw a glorious amount of extra parts in the bag. Wish more did this.I really wish the height locking clamped differently, or at least had wingnut on it so I don't have to break out the wrench while trying to get the somewhat unwieldy bar to sit at the same height for both sides for a clean straight cut.On the problem side of things. One bolt for the back bar hold (the thing that actually grips the chainsaw) was misaligned or something and basically is probably badly crossthreaded, I tried to give it some better angle but pretty resigned to my fate on that side I just can't get it to turn easily/cleanly. Which is a real bear with trying to get the clamp done evenly on the chainsaw bar.Sizing - so I have a small end chainsaw. 16" bar craftsman chainsaw. But the chainsaw blade after being in the saw and all that good stuff works out to about a foot of cutting surface once you have the back clamp on. But unless I remove the plexiglass the minimum I can space the locks is 12".. meaning I can't have the chainsaw clamped on both sides and even if I did I would only have 8" cutting surface to work with tops. Ultimately I need a longer chainsaw to play with this new toy.. but I would have held off on the purchase (and got the 48" mill) if I knew I needed a new saw either way. Oh well, such is life.