PolyMax Tough PETG Filament 1.75mm Black 0.75kg 3D Printer Filament, Tougher PETG+ Black 3D Printing Filament, Higher Heat Resistance Than PLA

This review is for the PA6-GFMy settings: Neptune 4 plus with enclosure, Microswiss hotend and upgraded fan shroud. Nozzle 290, bed 50 (yes, only 50). And you definitely need a hardened nozzle AND hardened gears.I was blown away by how easy this is to use. I have more consistent success with this filament than even PLA. The parts are incredibly strong, I was able to thin the walls of some of my prop designs from 12mm in PLA Plus to 4mm with this. It also had a slight flex to it which helps with impact resistance (so it won't just shatter).They also look great! Layer lines are hardly noticeable even at 0.2mm layer heights. It comes out with a rough texture that can be sanded. And so far I have had no adhesion issues. Supports usually snap off, although sometimes I need to use a razor blade on the tiny supports where they meet the print. Still, no worse than PLA.That said, there are some things to keep in mind:You have to print from and actively heated filament dryer. I splurged and got the EIBOS Polyphemus dryer, which was $150ish. I wanted it anyway but a good dryer that can consistenly keep the temperature at 70 is a must (70C is what I use for all prints with this filament).I also print with an enclosure. I'm not sure if you need it for the filament itself, but it gives off toxic particles. I have an activated carbon filter running at all times in the enclosure, you should too.Lastly, this is fiberglass. Working with fiberglass is dangerous, ESPCIALLY inhaling any particles. I recommend handling the prints with gloves (they have a rough texture and there's a risk of tiny glass splinters). And ALWAYS use a respirator when sanding these parts.At $120 for 3kg it's not a bad deal. I've stocked up on some rolls in case of coming tariffs, but I'll definitely be using this for a long time.

To the Polymaker Team:I'm struggling to get started printing and CNC machining, due to a lack of startup funds still. Can we work something out to get some more filament, until I make more money to buy it from y'all? No is an answer that I'll take. But I wanted to try.First thing is first! This stuff can print super intricate stuff. Also, it doesn't try to permanently stick to texture PEI plates like other nylons. Also, I printed at 10³mm/s with no issues. It was .24mm layer height with a .4mm nozzle, .4mm width at around 100-110mm/s speeds. IMPRESSIVE!I will only buy Fiberon nylon from here on out. I doubt another company can top this stuff.I have BBL PA6-CF, but it's a bit more expensive and the shipping sucks.I made a fork latch for my gate, since I hated the OG swivel latch thing. The BBL PA6, became too flexible after 3 days. (As plastic absorbs water, it becomes more flexible, but more impact resistant, but I need stuffness) It did rain a ton tho. But I kept having to tighten the bolts on the bracket as it softened.This Polymaker Fiberon PA612_CF15!?! Well, it absorbs less moisture and it still super rigid.

I do not write reviews often but in the case of this filament, absolutely. I have always used Hatchbox for my PETG needs, but no longer. The filament was shipped in the normal brown Poly box but vacuum sealed in a non-reusable bag. That is ok with me because I knew when I opened the package, the hiss let me know it was sealed correctly. As always, dry out your filament, especially PETG. I let this run at 54c for 8 hours before using. This is not my first translucent filament but it has been the EASIEST to print with. Stringing is basically non-existent, adhesion is not a factor and the quality of the prints are immaculate. I have tried countless filaments over the years from all manufacturers. Poly is my go to PLA using PLA Pro or Polylite because I have never had one issue with their filaments, so why not try their PETG. Yes this comes in a cardboard roll which I am fine with.Right now I am printing this with heavy infill because I need the strength but the transparency is VERY good even with 40% infill. Printing with a larger nozzle, less infill, thicker walls, and post-processing will give you a clearer finish. Print this slower than PLA. You can also go down to .1 and REALLY slow printing for a very clear finish, but will lose strength and time printing.PETG can be a little tricky if you do not have the correct temps / retractions. Surprisingly, I print this at a lower temp than other PETG filaments. I am running a Titan Direct Drive so my retraction settings will differ from a Bowden setup. I have printed this with Marlin without issue and currently running Klipper with BETTER results.Setup: Creality CR10-v3 STOCKBed: G10When printing on Glass I raise 5cCura Settings for a stronger PETG print (Currently using settings for fan ducts for Hero Me G7).4 brass nozzle.2 layer height.4 line width1.2 wall thickness2 Top Surface Skin LayersMonotonic Top/Bottom UncheckedSkin in Z Gaps UncheckedIroning Unchecked40% infillConnect Infill Lines UncheckedTemp 235Build Plate 80Initial Layer Bottom Flow 108%Print Speed 40mm/sMy Titan Extruder Retraction settingsEnable RetractionRetract at Layer change CheckedRetraction Distance .8Retraction Speed 45mm/sRetract before outer wall CheckedLimit Support Retractions UncheckedEnable Print cooling UNCHECKED <----------With Klipper, turn off all Acceleration Control, Jerk Control, Z Hop when retracted. Take your time with the Klipper setup and go through each step in order, not skipping. If you walked through all Klipper settings, everything will print GREAT. If not, blame the user and not the tools. I skipped a couple the first time through and was so confused as to why everyone loved Klipper because my results were terrible. Impatience got me. I went through the setup again (took my time, couple days), and I am sold. I will not go back to Marlin.For a good print, everyone should make sure a couple of things are in order regardless of slicer, firmware or printer...1. Your bed is level2. No seriously, take the time and level your damn bed3. Do not write bad reviews because filaments do not stick to your unlevel bed4. ESTEPS. Tune them, per roll, not per filament. It can change from roll to roll. Also, tune your ESTEPS at the temperature you are going to print at (start a spreadsheet and keep track of settings to cut down on the time it takes when changing rolls).5. Correct temperatures. This can also change PER ROLL and depending on how dry it is. If you hear a slight pop sound, too much moisture.6. Bed adhesion. I have used Carborundum glass beds, thick mirrors, HomeDepot 12in mirrors and now G10. There is ONE common factor to all of them, do not touch the bed. EVER. Wash the bed with dish soap and water, then dry with a clean, lint free cloth. Glass beds would require me to clean them every few prints. G10, pfft. I just wipe it down with the blue shop roll paper towels and done. Now if I TOUCH the bed, I clean it with dish soap and water. You can also use 99.99% alcohol to wipe the beds down as well. Spend $20 and get a G10 sheet. You will not be sorry.Happy Printing!