Flameweld MIG ARC TIG 3 In 1 Gas/Gasless MIG Welder Machine, 110/220V MTA1650 Dual Voltage MMA/MIG/Lift Tig Welder, 160Amps MIG Welding Machine

The first impression I got from the box was it was well built. I did not like the mig whip because it look flimsy and fragile but performed well. The white feed did not appeal because it was a lot of plastic but did the job. The performance of the welder over all well really pretty good. Not much spatter at all for Flux core wire. Set up was not difficult. Should be good for a beginner. Over all I like the box.

Seems to be a good welder but the connections on the front are a little loose after putting the connections in. I have only used the mig so far but seems to be doing the job.

Also, the gentleman that help me with it and also with my insurance on it he has gone way beyond making sure that I’m satisfied with the product as well as the four years insurance that I put on it. I need to get a raise. I need to get an award if you check his record he’s tried to call three times I’ve been out of the area but then he’s help me on the phone. I talked to him last night and he is trying to make sure that I got my insurance that I paid for and I lost. Reception where I live, but he did a fine job

The media could not be loaded. I am "new" but I watch a lot of Youtube and reed gud so I have been checking out a ton of forums. With that, a little overconfidence and this small welder I figure my first project will be a ground up race car frame from 1018 flat bar or something easy like that to start. At least thats how these things make you feel when you get them to work.I tried FCAW Flux MIG with .035 run of the mill wire from my 130 amp AC MIG and it works well. Wanting to test function 2 of 3, I quickly switched to 3/32 stick in 6011 at about 60-65 Amps then tried 7018 (ac/dc) at 105-140 Amps. It did take a little work though. The main drawback with this welder is a weak spring on the ground clamp. Mine was awfully weak! What I have learned is a good ground can make a huge difference in striking an arc and amps needed to make an arc weld or mig.So what you need to do is try the clamp (squeeze it) and go to Harbor Freight or welding supply and try their clamps. If you feel a big difference def purchase a new one. I did a workaround and put a spacer on the spring (arm end that pushes the clamp handle out) so that it pushes against the handle more. it was basically a long nut that I had in my junk drawer. Very difficult to lift that straight arm of the spring to put the nut spacer on! It works better but I'll still get another one probably from HF.I am practicing on 1/8 mystery metal bed frame and made a frame for a shelf. That was with 6011. It worked ok after getting the right settings. At this point it was with the weak clamp. It didnt have a whole lot of grip on 1/8 steel. Of course I ground off the paint first.So a goal was to use 7018 to get penetration and strength. After sticking a rod to my work I was impressed with the 7018 rod. I had a bad quality 7018 then swiched to Forney 7018 and really like it. Using crabpy ground I could not start the arc and actually tried 140 amps and didn't burn through. I though I'd have to go to 240 Volts but now I don't think I not need to install 240 in the garage. I increased the grip on the clamp and used 140 Amps and quickly burned two holes on both sides of the angle iron. Wow! Back in bid'ness! NOW 140 is now way too much. I turned it down to 105 Amps and was actually able to repair the two holes! I had been watching youtube the guy who only arc welds and shows how to do this. What would we do without YouTube? (Probably watch deer hunting without politically correct restrictions!). I welded a thicker plate. See pic of 22 flipping target that was cut in half and shot through with 30 cal. This was one 6011 rod at 102 amps (before ground fix) and it went in FAST using the whole rod (1 pass). I welded a 3/8 bolt on some thicker steel and it went well. Then blew through some old exhaust pipe with 3/32 6011 that I should've used mig.Anyway, I had some booger welds and most stuff looked really "beginner" but think of all the variables I "blew through": outlet voltage, amperage for each rod type, metal thickness, ground clamp, small lengths/short runs, etc. This was also on my non-gcfi 15 amp breaker that is dedicated for the garage door. I was on 140 amp for only a little while too. This thing MAY just work.Second pic using 120v 15A outlet: 115 showing on machine, 7018 ("ac" which prob doesnt matter) , 3/16 steel prob A36. Seemed to be an ok setting.

This compact welder is great it has been exactly what it is supposed to do and the voltage and speed controls are great and accurate, this wasn’t first welder I’ve had and I leaned on it I woul recommend to the beginner and to the professional it’s been a great experience

Trigger does NOT control wire feed. After releasing trigger, wire continues to feed and stays hot. Called support and spoke with several representatives and neither of them spoke good enough English to understand so could not fix the problem. Would not recommend this welder to ANYONE !!

As you can see in the picture, it’s basically impossible to get a good contact with the ground. Clamp provided as well as it not even having copper nuts and bolts, but if it works with a proper ground clamp, you can’t beat the price and the instructions are very vague For beginners

Very surprised by this welder I have used it often with the mig 110v setup and works just as good as any high dollar welder I would recommend buying this one over a high priced welder