Liquid Wood - Pint Light Wood with Black Cherry Stain - Stainable Wood Fiber Paint - Put a fresh coat of wood on it (16oz LW, Black Cherry)

I used the 8oz light wood and it just barely covered my bathroom vanity (except I skipped painting the inside of the doors and the left side of the vanity isn’t seen—I wouldn’t have had enough to do that). I did 3 coats. Then 2 coats of the dark walnut Varathane 349560 Premium Gel Stain, Half gel stain. And probably 4 coats of spray clear coat by Rust-Oleum.

I was a little nervous to try this product, but had a table with a laminate top that I wanted to refinish. The results were better than I could have imagined. After cleaning the table with just rubbing alcohol, I lightly sanded, then began painting on the liquid wood. I did the first coat with a cheap paint brush, the second with a roller, and the third with a quality paintbrush plus a wood grain tool. There was only one area I disliked, but I simply repainted that part and scraped the grain tool again. It could not be more simple!

I bought this to use on old kitchen cabinets. It didnt work as well as I had hoped it would but that's due to me being an amateur and the cabinets being in such horrible condition to start with. I think this product is fabulous and I'd definitely use it again now that I have experience.

Product has a learning curve. It’s verrrryyyy thin, and the edges must not have too much product or it is failure (see pic). I’d recommend several coats BEFORE the final coat with the wood grain tool to get the stain to take, and it does not take well!!!! Gel was a disaster and I strongly encourage you not go that route. It entirely covered my grain and I had to sand and entirely start over.Penetrating stain worked much better, but it was light. Several coats were required. I will say, it does look like wood. But I ended up having to start over two times between the edges looking low quality and the gel stain.In the first coats, long, smooth brush strokes. The final application where you use the wood grain tool, I would apply the product with a brush starting in the middle and and going out. When you use the wood grain tool, use long strokes as straight as possible. The wood grain tool creates grain anyway so it isn’t necessary to have the long strokes suggested, and it was a big mistake in my world.But the product itself is pretty amazing. It does look just like Wood. I was impressed. Wish it was thicker, but honestly it’s amazing what it did to particleboard.

WOW! This thing is magical. Wish I tried this product before. Dries well, cures well, omg. Just try it! You wont regret. You can turn even a messed up furniture into something new 🫶🏻

No Odor? It’s unbearably strong. I used this during the day and literally shut down my work after using it for 30 minutes. I got in trouble as they had to literally move people outside.Make sure if you use this you don’t plan on being anywhere near this or anyone else near the paint

Highly recommend this product.I do recommend using a paintbrush.For the wood grain look.And when you put your stain on. Use a Cloth to apply your stain And seal with a clear coat Polyurethane For a strong durable finish

Overall, this is a pretty cool product. For the project I did, I would give it a 2.0 - 2.5, but rated the product higher because I know how I will use this moving forward.The instructions pretty much say, “Clean it. Paint it on, let it dry for two hours, then paint another coat”. It does say you can lightly sand the surface if it is slick, but does not define what types of surfaces should be lightly sanded. It does not say anything about priming the surface. Following these instructions leaves the product kind of “spotty” and not smooth as if you were refinishing or finishing furniture. It is like a Monet…looks great from a distance, but you can clearly see the flaws and the mess up close. Thankfully, the piece I chose to refinish with this product is not in a place that has high foot traffic in my house, so I’m good with the results.I cannot stress enough how much the instructions should encourage you to sand the surface. The instructions make it sound as if it’s optional. Priming is also a very good idea.Now, moving forward…I will use this product totally different. I’ve refinished kitchen cabinets in the past and will pretty much follow that process with this product moving forward. My kitchen cabinets have been refinished for three years with no damage or chips to them.For those that want to know the process I will use moving forward with this product, here it is:1. Clean the surface with tsp (you can get it at Home Depot. It’s pink.)2. Sand the surface to make it rough. If doing it by hand, you could probably get away with a 120 grit or higher. You don’t need to sand it hard, just roughen the surface.3. Brush the dust off the surface. If you want, wipe the surface it again with the tsp (your choice…just don’t drench it, wipe it).4. Prime the surface with either cabinet/furniture or kitchen/bath/trim primer (again, you can get this at Home Depot). I would use the kitchen/bath/trim primer if the furniture you are refinishing is in a high traffic area. Make sure you give the primer the time to dry. You want it completely dry. I applied two coats of primer to my cabinets. It’s up to you if you want to apply one or two coats.5. Apply two coats of the Retique. The second coat should be good to go with the graining tool. If it’s not, apply a third coat and use the graining tool with it.6. Stain it with water based stain (I used Minwax from Lowes…pick your color and they will tint it for you). You will probably need to do multiple coats of stain to get your desired color. DO NOT USE OIL BASED.7. Apply 2-3 coats of a water based poly/clear coat (I used Minwax from Lowes). Again, DO NOT USE OIL BASED.Hopefully this helps for those diy’ers like me.