Briggs & Stratton Intek Series, 19 HP, 540 cc, Single Cylinder Engine

The media could not be loaded. I don’t do many reviews on products, but in this case I will. Because this information may be very useful to someone else that had the same problem or concerns.My 42” inch cut Husqvarna model YTH18524 engine shattered the piston arm cause of the balancer broke and it made the piston rod just explode. The motor was the 18.5HP 33R777-0005-G1 and I was looking for replacing just the parts. But it was a catastrophic failure in the motor. So I was on a hunt for a new motor… come to find out, the 33R777-0005-G1 are discontinued. So now I was upset cause now, I need to find a new Mower now versus a new motor… I was upset to say the least. But I started doing a lot of research on replacing the motor still. From the marketplace, eBay to amazon. Wasn’t sure buying a used motor on marketplace or eBay would been the best idea.. So got on amazon and seen the 19HP 33S877- 0019-G1 Motor. I researched into this motor extensively to make sure all components are compatible with my Husqvarna YTH18524. To my surprise, it was compatible with my mower. So I ordered it.I came fast, earlier than expected. Packaged well. Took the old motor out and dropped the new one in. Note the 19HP 33S877-0019-G1 “DOESN'T HAVE THREAD FOR EXISTING BOLTS” you can either use a threader and cut your own threads or you can get bolts and just bolt it on. The motor mount holes lined up perfectly and bolted on with ease. The electric harness was an exact match so all I had to do was plug and play, and connect the starter wire. Now with my mower it’s not a side exhaust, it’s a front exhaust and I ordered the 532137352 Muffler Kit (Muffler & 692236 Gasket) for Husqvarna and took off the side muffler that comes with the motor and switched with the front muffler and it fits perfectly.Pleased with how easy it was to install and pleased with how it runs. Be sure to add oil to it before starting it. The motors don’t come with the oil in it. So be sure to add oil before starting. As for value. It was well worth buy the motor and replacing that instead of buying a new lawnmower. And the power of the lawnmower was exactly the same as the old motor I took out. Hope this helps someone else out there.

I bought this engine to replace a Kawasaki engine on my Exmark mower at half the price of original engine. Had to modify the electrical connection so could connect to mower electrics. The engine is a little wider than the original so had to move the right side gas tank over about 2". Had to reroute the throttle and choke cables as they were to long.Mounting holes were identical to original, so mounting was a breeze. Make sure the shaft length is the same as original engine. Engine started right up, even with a weak battery which I replaced. Engine runs good. Recommend as a replacement for 19 HP Kawasaki engine. Have about 4 hrs on engine at this time. Will up date at later date.

Used on a yth1842 model 223810. Bolted right up, you will need new mounting bolts. The engine is not threaded. I had to reuse the exhaust from the tractor. Tractor throttle cable was a bit short but I was able to re-route it to work.

Packaging and lack of documentation drove 4 stars.Kohler 18hp Courage on 2006 Snapper 350Z blew head gasket and local dealer wanted $2K for new engine install or $3.7K for new Tiro ZTR. Based on many in depth reviews here I gave this engine a try and success. Many thanks for reviews on wiring and throttle hookup.Packaging was not good. Styrofoam base crumbled as the engine shook in transit. Time lost to vacuum Styrofoam bits out. Ugh.Bolt pattern matched to attach engine. I used bolts and nuts with nylon inserts.Engine shaft fit pulleys no problem. Battery powered impact wrench is your friend. Keep the square shaft key from the old engine.Wiring was plug and play to what was in ZTR for Kohler and visual check showed wires ran to same spots. Thanks to Jack's Small Engines web site to do a wiring harness check just to be sure.Throttle was as shown in other reviews. You are connecting to the governor not the butterfly valve on the carb. Pull the black plastic insert and screw out the torx screw by the "R" letter stamped in the bracket.Choke is full on auto when throttle pushed a little past full open (thanks to YouTuber working on 13hp briggs engine). A manual choke can be attached. There is a screw to hold the cable housing in the intake tube and a plastic arm on the choke. I haven't needed it.My challenge was getting fuel to the carb. It seems to be an Intek design issue and/or my abilities. On a Craftsman lawn tractor with 24hp Intek twin I can pop the air filter and dribble fuel in to get it running until engine vacuum pulls fuel from the tank. Like they do at a drag strip. This engine has 2 90 degree bends from filter to carb inlet. Using primer bottle wasn't working. So frustration drove a basic approach. Manual valve installed between fuel pump and carb. Carb solenoid screwed off to ensure it was working (reconnected wires as I held solenoid, switch on showed it worked fine). But not much gas in bowl. So went with a temp gravity fed approach.. Kept manual valve closed. Small gas tank off small briggs engine tied to 2 wheel dolly alongside and above engine. Fuel line running to a filter and then direct to carb. Squirt prime bottle used to ensure carb bowl full. Engine kicked off as expected, ran great. After about 10 minutes running I ran a hose from the manual valve to a pan and opened the valve. Engine fuel pump now primed and gas flowing. Let engine cool and installed line from manual valve to carb. Uused primer bottle to fill line as much as possible, opened manual valve and all is good. I think fuel line routing from ztr fuel tank was a contributing factor. Just a long trek to get fuel to fuel pump (run by engine vacuum).

Replaced the original 21hp with this engine 19hp and no difference. Just a better engine. Needed to keeep old muffler for the swap. That was with only modification. Comes with air and gas filters. For mounting, you’ll need to re-use old bolts. They will need to be used to cut new threads into the block. I shortened the fuel hose and get the throttle cable secured. Once oil and gas were in and starter motor connected, worked flawlessly!! Sips gas too. Saved a ton of cash by not repairing (again) the original 21HP engine. You’ll never get the 21HP to run smooth again and it costs about $500 Plus the Cam needed to repair isn’t cheap. Go with the cheap cam and you’ll blow the engine up. Save the time, save thee money, knuckles and mower for another 10 years. Buy this engine as the replacement. Sam small wiring harness. This engine replaced the B&S 331877-0869-G5 for my sears mower.