ElastiPoxy Concrete Joint & Crack Filler Kit – 2 Quarts – Flexible Epoxy Joint Sealant for Floor-to-Wall Joints, Contraction Joints, Cracks in Concrete Blocks, and Spalled Surfaces

I am giving this 5 stars because it does exactly what they say and was a complete kit including mixing paddles and cups. Everything went according to direction. It is expensive and I was hesitant to buy 2 kits for my 3 car garage but I should have. If you are having second thoughts about buying more than you think you need, heed this warning. The hassle of removing everything from your garage (tools and other expensive, theft targets) and prepping everything and then doing the joint fill and flooring coating while that stuff is at risk of theft is a giant bucket of stress that is far more "expensive" than an extra kit!! Seriously, just buy the extra and if you don't use it send it back. I will make another recommendation that will help the install. Get foam core to partially fill the joints and get a caulking gun to run a bead on the bottom of the joint to glue down the foam core so the joint filler doesn't "float" the foam core up and leak under it. Every place I used caulking went well and where I thought the foam core was tight enough, it wasn't. Lessons learned for me. Other than that my project was successful. When this cures, it has a slightly rubbery feel like silicone but a lot firmer. So far my polycuramine floor coating is not cracking or showing any issues where the joints are.

Worked pretty much as described. The only problem was after I added dry sand the propeller on the me ice furnished broke off.I mixed it with a putty knife and it worked great.

Product is a little tricky to work with. I found that syringes work the best in applying it cracks. After three months it did shrink and crack…. A lot. I have reapplied lately and now seeing what happens. I’m currently looking into other products due to the amount of cracking and shrinkage

Opened the box to do my project and found the crappy cans had both leaked all over the inside of the box and all the contents making a huge sticky mess. Cans that don't leak is not a difficult technology to master. And of course if the cans weren't sealed from air then the product is useless. Waste of $135. If you want to throw away your money on epoxied cardboard and packing peanuts then this is the product for you.

Stopped seepage along the floor to wall joint in the basement, even while damp. Adding sand as recommended to make the product less runny makes only a modest improvement. I will use again on floors but look for a different solution for walls.

This stuff works great but they are very proud of their product ($$$$). Make sure you let it sit before use (gets rid of bubble holes when set up). They recommend filling concrete control joint with sand. I did this and tamped down with side of flat bar and hammer. First time pour, product filler joint, but partially soaked into sand, then needing a second coat, after it hardened $$$. 2 quart cans only covered half of the joints in a 3 car track home garage, with this technique. I reluctantly ordered a second set. Filled joint with tamped sand again. Tried covering sand with electrical and masking tape (to reduce seepage), but couldn't get a solid seal. Then covered sand with thin layer of $14 polyester resin. This put a thin seal over the sand. I let harden, then poured ElastiPoxy over the compacted resin covered sand. The resin prevented seepage. If I had done this technique, I might have done the whole project with one 2 quart set. I recommend doing ElasiPoxy after all concrete prep work is done prior to epoxy coating whole floor, meaning degrease, pressure wash, TSP, and etch. Found a blow torch worked best to remove stubborn oil stains, it's kind of like removing oil shale, but the torch burns off oil once out. Once hardened grind off with belt sander till smooth with 36 to 80 grit. If you are lucky enough not to grind leave it. It tends to build up on edges, so grinding makes it flush. Ground product takes a little more attention when applying epoxy floor coat, as it has just a hint of porosity. Over all product is just what the doctor ordered. Seems to be just a bit more elastic then Bondo, when hardened. Still wondering if Bondo will work because of price, but not willing to experiment due to over-all price of floor. Also used Rust-Oleum "Professional" grade EpoxyShield 2 part epoxy (you have to hunt for it, Summit Racing has it). Regular Rust-Oleum EpoxyShield is a 2 part non-catalyzed paint, which is powdered epoxy suspended in water, it's "Fake News" (found out via YouTube video just before application of the "non-professional product). Then covered with Rust-Oleum Epoxy Clear. Results turned out amazing. Ran Epoxy Shield to outside edge of slab, but stopped clear coat at door's edge due to clear coat yellowing over time, due to direct sunlight. Wished I knew some of this before I started . . .now you have your official tip!

The product was listed as being the thicker version of the epoxy crack filler line. The thin version had you use white sand to prevent excessive run through and this product was to be my solution for larger cracks. Well, my cracks are about 1/16 to about 3/16 (the floor is stable and the crack is along the seam), so I thought I'd be fine, but it ran through like water. $130 down a crack. make sure you use sand or other backing. The product is very good at adhereing to concrete and it does it's job well. It's like a flexible form of epoxy.

This stuff is expensive but it is awesome. Comes in two containers. You mix equal amounts together. You mix up as much as you need. You do need to be careful working with the stuff, clean up any spills right away. The mixture can be poured in small clean cracks. Or you can mix in sand to fill larger holes. Read all instructions before starting. Then read them again.